Collapsed Lifters 95 GenV Big Block

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grampadirt

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Little back story...I was a little disappointed with the performance of the Burb,it worked hard when towing my toy hauler to the desert.I finally decided to upgrade the cam & lifters so I went with a kit I got from CompCams.Got it installed with no probs,broke it in with new oil with a pint of ZDDP break in oil.Ran it for 20 minutes or so while varying the engine speed between 2,000 & 2500 rpm.After that i changed the oil and put in 10W-30 Castrol conventional,and 75,000 miles later here we are.
That cam helped quite a bit,even though it wasn't a high lift cam the pulling strength had improved noticably.I was a happy camper :)
 

grampadirt

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Greetings grampadirt,

Some lifter noises can be fixed with a good cleaning, while other noises will require parts replacement.
The good news is that a collapsed lifter caused by stuck internals is in the former category.

To be a little more specific, here's a good photo of a disassembled lifter:

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In order to understand where the noise is coming from, the lifter body's position is set by the cam lobe.

The inner plunger sets the position of the pushrod. As long as the plunger can move freely inside the
lifter body while the lifter travels from the top of the cam lobe back to the base circle (valve closing), then it
is this freedom of movement which allows the mechanism to take up any excess clearance in the
pushrod/rocker/valve tip area.

But by the same token, in order for the same hydraulic lifter to stiffen up and act like a 'solid lifter' when the
valve is being opened (ie: from lifter base to top of cam lobe) now it's key for the check valve to seat completely.
If it doesn't, then again there will be excess play when the lifter collapses due to the opposing force from the
valve spring.

In English, debris & accumulated varnish can lead to 'frozen' internal parts, and cause ticky/sticky/collapsed lifters.

With any luck, you will look for and *not* find any excessive wear on the exterior surfaces of the hydraulic lifters
and cam lobes. This will then allow you to carefully disassemble & clean the interior bits, put it all back together,
and then these parts will 'take' a careful preload adjustment. (Similar to scott2093's post referenced above.

Please keep us updated as to your progress and what you discover.

Best of luck --

Let
Love your reply,I will certainly check the bad lifters,I love to take apart stuff like this and of course keep you guys up to date on my progress.BTW when I removed the valve covers they were spotless as were the heads.I attribute this to regular oil changes and Castrol oil and good filters(never Fram).
 

grampadirt

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Thought I'd post a pic of the current cam card.Did I choose a good cam?A little late for that though lol,just curious.
Opinions?
 

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grampadirt

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So i finally got to start on my Burb's problem...removed a few external parts yesterday,today I should have the intake manifold removed and thus be able to remove the lifters.I hope there are no major damage and maybe might be able to simply clean 'em and reuse 'em.Worst case scenario I'll have to install a new cam & lifters,I have money set aside for this.I'll post pics when I get the lifters out.
 

grampadirt

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I like that cam for a bbc towing rig. You were happy with the results?
Yes I am,in fact when I chatted with a tech at Edelbrock I mentioned I want a new cam that is as close as possible to the one I have now.Evidently the grind I have now is no longer available :(
 

grampadirt

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Got it apart with the help of a good friend and man did we get an eye full.Apperently the ''oil metering disc'' decided to break up....and the part that broke off found it's way into the check valve keeping the lifter to pump up.The cam still looks good and the face of the two lifters I removed look great with a slight hump in the center of bothgood news.
A few pics...
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grampadirt

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Does it look like this block was machined for a roller cam & lifters? I see four holes that have threads for the lifter spider and flat surfaces for the dog bones...puzzling.
 
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