cold air intake

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sewlow

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I think I've spent more time dicking around trying to figure out a proper mount for the 'Hot Air' Ebay intake I had on my '97 than any other part under the hood. More than few attempts, from scratch, all over again, with mods to each & every design.
Stickshift + me. ("A redline a day keeps the carbon away!")
The engine moved around on those rubber mounts.

It came with a hokey 3/4" wide strip of tin with several 'adjustment' holes.
Duct strapping? Mmmm... Yea. Whadya expect for 40 bucks?
Free shipping, though! WooHoo.

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I tried just letting the filter sit on the inner fender.
Wrong. I could here the filter rattling at every stop light.
Tried hard mounting it to the inner fender. Various efforts.
The intake tubing would end up working themselves out & come apart at the joins, no matter how tight the clamps.
Which got me to thinking about those engine mounts.
So, they're good, but the trans mount needs replacing.
Wasn't a cure.

Eventually, I ended up making something like this, but with the lower legs slotted at those screws so as to let the cleaner move with the engine.
Even that took some tweaking.
I'd slotted the holes too long so that when the engine was idling the cleaner sat too low to the fender & would rattle.
Fixed that with a strip of 1/16" sticky-one-side foam insulation on the fender.
Ditto with the hood. Under acceleration, the cleaner would just touch it. Actually wore the paint away. A strip of foam under the hood.

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All of this for a nice purdy color-matched performance detriment.
Shaking my head sounds like a damn maraca.

I'd sold the OEM for cheap. Probably to someone that had probably gone through all this B.S. before & had actually figured out that just because something's shiny...
 
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LVJJJ

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I've been installing cold air intakes for decades. First on my 292 in my 1965 Chevy Van, then in 1988 Suburban 454, and now in the '94 GMC k1500. First thing I did was rip out the air box and 3" hose and replaced it with a 4" smooth aluminum dryer duct. Wrapped it in silver insulation to keep the heat down. Made a huge difference. After trying a K&N and not noticing any difference, went back to the AC 348. Recently installed a 2nd cold air intake (the 383 needs lots of air). Cut another similar hole in the side of the air cleaner body aimed at the driver's side fender. Used the ribbed adaptor from the original intake and cemented it into that hole. Then run a 3" slightly ribbed rubber-plastic hose from the adaptor down to the splash shield opening to get cold air coming into the wheel well. I remove the splash shields on both sides to help cool the headers and get an airflow thru the engine compartment in the summer when we are towing. Also, trimmed off some of the black plastic surround on the passenger side parking-turn signal light cluster on the top and the bottom as that is right in front of the fender air intake. You can feel air rushing in while its idleing. Been thinking of removing one of the bulbs and using a hole saw to cut a hole in one side of the cluster. Would be better to have ram air.
 

Cadillac Bob

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My Volant CAI will be here Friday. I don't expect anything other than it looking nice under the hood. :)
Do post pics and any improvement do you have any other mods that improve power or are you stock? That will help a lot of people since majority on here haven’t hopped up they motors.
 

Cadillac Bob

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Yeah I noticed that ductwork strapping too!! I just put that off to the side with stuff to fix the house pile! I don’t remember what I did I might have left the bottom “bucket “ housing for it to rest in but without the top on or I just had it in there floating around but it made my ses light come on I took it off light went out then put it back on same thing along with hassle of putting it in so I just returned it!! Went back to stock but even a smooth tube in place of accordion would improve airflow! An old buddy that’s electrician took a 4” conduit bent it to match his tubing and drilled and tapped for all things needed and put that on his 07 Dodge Ram.
 

Paul 97 tahoe

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We have run a Volant cold air intake on 3 OBS trucks and are really happy with it. It draws cold air though the fender too. We have run the "dry" filter one just because I have never been a fan of an oil bath air filter on a truck, they are high maintenance but the oil bath one does flow better, you can hear the difference between the 2, so if it's just horsepower you're after you could go with the oil bath one. They have raised the price way up on their Volant's site I see but you can still find it a lot cheaper from other vendors I am sure. Better air flow and best of all the 'Donaldson Power Core Filter' is no maintenance and is suppose to last 100,000 miles before it needs to be replaced. My 2 cents worth.
 

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JeremyNH

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I bought the Volant three or so years ago. It is likely an improvement but there are some downsides. First the air box is much larger and you can't read the level in the coolant overflow reservoir from the side the reservoir is mounted on which makes filling to proper level a pain. Second, unless they changed it since, Volant went to a "universal lid" which is the plexiglass with the logo on it designed to fit multiple air boxes. It didn't fit mine too well and left ~1/16" of an air gap on the side facing front. I called to complain (where I heard about the "universal lid") and they said that there is some tolerance with it which sometimes produces a poor fit and sent me a replacement lid. The replacement fit better in that it actually covered the opening in full but on the side facing front it couldn't have been more than a few thousandths. I ended up fabbing my own from an aluminum plate that fully fits the opening. Third I have a marine intake and use a throttle body spacer for the CC to clear the fuel rails and found that Volant's air neck was too tall with a spacer to allow the hood to close. I had to spend time with a heat gun, one of my wife's frying pans, and some shot weights from my rifle rest to slowly pancake the air neck by the 1" the spacer added. I also had to use the stock accordion hose to bridge the MAF to the air neck since, with the spacer, it was out of alignment with the MAF mount and the short tube Volant provides didn't have enough slack to make up for it. The PCV inlet hose required some work because of the spacer too. Lastly getting the air neck off is awkward. I have a good system to do it now but it's much more difficult to get off than OEM (which is a cinch). I noticed no performance change. No sound change either. But I do suspect it's better than stock for air flow (it sucked a rag in from the fender left by either my dad or his mechanic 15 years ago at least since he wasn't in a condition to drive the five years of his life) so kept it regardless but imho there are better things to spend the money on given the not inconsiderable cost of the kit.
 

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L31MaxExpress

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I bought the Volant three or so years ago. It is likely an improvement but there are some downsides. First the air box is much larger and you can't read the level in the coolant overflow reservoir from the side the reservoir is mounted on which makes filling to proper level a pain. Second, unless they changed it since, Volant went to a "universal lid" which is the plexiglass with the logo on it designed to fit multiple air boxes. It didn't fit mine too well and left ~1/16" of an air gap on the side facing front. I called to complain (where I heard about the "universal lid") and they said that there is some tolerance with it which sometimes produces a poor fit and sent me a replacement lid. The replacement fit better in that it actually covered the opening in full but on the side facing front it couldn't have been more than a few thousandths. I ended up fabbing my own from an aluminum plate that fully fits the opening. Third I have a marine intake and use a throttle body spacer for the CC to clear the fuel rails and found that Volant's air neck was too tall with a spacer to allow the hood to close. I had to spend time with a heat gun, one of my wife's frying pans, and some shot weights from my rifle rest to slowly pancake the air neck by the 1" the spacer added. I also had to use the stock accordion hose to bridge the MAF to the air neck since, with the spacer, it was out of alignment with the MAF mount and the short tube Volant provides didn't have enough slack to make up for it. The PCV inlet hose required some work because of the spacer too. Lastly getting the air neck off is awkward. I have a good system to do it now but it's much more difficult to get off than OEM (which is a cinch). I noticed no performance change. No sound change either. But I do suspect it's better than stock for air flow (it sucked a rag in from the fender left by either my dad or his mechanic 15 years ago at least since he wasn't in a condition to drive the five years of his life) so kept it regardless but imho there are better things to spend the money on given the not inconsiderable cost of the kit.
I slightly bent my cruise control lever on my throttle body because I did not have room for a TB spacer. Cleared the fuel rail and the cruise worked normally.
 
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