Can they turn any better?

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thegawd

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I figured as much i just wasnt sure if there was something specific to vehicles.... anyways Ive got some running around to do. I will take a measurement when I get back to the bush later, hauling firewood. I'm sure these measurements are available somewhere I'm curious how my burb compares to the sierra, they have very similar wheel bases but the burbs is shorter.

Al
 

SUBURBAN5

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I figured as much i just wasnt sure if there was something specific to vehicles.... anyways Ive got some running around to do. I will take a measurement when I get back to the bush later, hauling firewood. I'm sure these measurements are available somewhere I'm curious how my burb compares to the sierra, they have very similar wheel bases but the burbs is shorter.

Al

Heres the wheel base 131.5. And like evolution. Depending on the year theyve grown longer. Your right about the sierra. I've always looked at the space behind the rear door of a burb any year vs the space of a crew cab.

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deadbeat

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I removed the leaking steering box off of my dads 1997 K1500, installed a low mileage clean 1995 steering box. After a few days of driving it, he said, this thing doesn't steer as sharp as it did before. We put back on the leaky 1997, steering went back good. Ordered a new one from Red Hed Steering, I believe they sent him a pre-1997 box, steering was nice and tight, but it wouldn't steer sharp once again.
 
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HotWheelsBurban

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Yep! And bright lights... Every 4th or 5th car on the road has their GD brights on in Louisville, Kentucky. Same with light bars turned on full time on trucks. Really making me consider installing a couple of high quality ones on mine to let the jackasses know what it feels like...
Yes! In Houston, seems like people either have no lights on(dude it's 11 o clock, how much darker are you waiting for it to get? ) or they have the late model LED/ projector lights that do nothing for oncoming traffic but blind you. Many of the areas we have to travel in are not very well lit, so what your vehicle has makes a difference. The Burb lights are pretty good for stock, but I want to do the 4 high mod once I have the funds for the harness. Upper corners too. Y'all gonna see me coming LOL.
 

east302

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I removed the leaking steering box off of my dads 1997 K1500, installed a low mileage clean 1995 steering box. After a few days of driving it, he said, this thing doesn't steer as sharp as it did before. We put back on the leaky 1997, steering went back good. Ordered a new one from Red Hed Steering, I believe they sent him a pre-1997 box, steering was nice and tight, but it wouldn't steer sharp once again.

Similar experience here. Replaced the gearbox on a 98 two door Tahoe with one from 96 or under. The steering feels heavier (which may be what you mean by steering sharp) but I like it better. On such a short wheelbase it’s always been pretty nimble compared to my truck.

Best guess is that the gearbox change coincided with the introduction of EVO.


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Schurkey

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I bet the casting numbers are different on the older ones vs. the newer style. But I don't know what the numbers are; or how many different versions there might be. I'd kinda expect L and R for 1500s and LD 2500s; perhaps another version for HD 2500s and 3500s.

Well, it does look like the 97 1500 4x4 got improved turning radius:

Source: https://media.chevrolet.com/dam/Media/documents/CA/Archives/EN/Vehicles/chevy_truck/1997C-K.html

"NEW FOR 1997:...

...* Improved turning radius on all 1/2-ton 4x4 models..."
Well, that means that the K2500/K3500, and all C models don't need to checked for tighter-turning knuckles. Be nice to see the casting numbers for the '97-up K1500 knuckles, though.

My question was more based on nabbing an OE junkyard correct box to send out to a company for a quality rebuild at a glance. Unless part numbers on the casing itself could clear that up.
I would not expect a casting number to have any relation to how the guts of the box are specified. The housing with the visible casting number could have all sorts of different parts loaded inside it.

THREE things in a steering box that are important:
1. Steering-gear RATIO. Typically 12:1--22:1. They can be single-ratio or variable-ratio, where the ratio changes with steering angle.

2. Steering STOPS. Controls the angle that the gearbox can be turned. With GM cars, you typically see somewhere between 30 and 45 degrees. For example, 64--72 Chevelles need 40+ degrees of gearbox angle, the steering stops are when the steering knuckle hits a reinforced section of the lower control arm. A Second-Gen Camaro has the stops built-into the gearbox limiting travel to 30-something degrees. The farther the gearbox turns, the sharper the steering knuckle turns...until the steering linkage binds.

3. Torsion-bar DIAMETER/STIFFNESS. Small torsion bars provide lots of assist, but give little feedback. This gives "one-finger steering" that feels over-boosted and completely dead. OTOH, a stiff torsion bar gives lots of feedback, but requires more effort than Grandma is comfortable with.

And, of course, GM isn't very good about providing any of that information to the consumer. They install a steering box that THEY think you'll like, and if you don't...tough. I have no idea how you'd go about selecting a "good" box for your needs; and of course the boxes with best road feel and fastest ratio are going to be scarce--perhaps they'd be used on the 454 SS trucks.

You're kind of at the mercy of the specialist rebuilders; you send them a box, and hope they put the "good" gear ratio, the proper stops, and the "good" torsion bar into it before they send it back to you. And you also hope that their idea of "good", and your idea of "good" are the same.
 

Ehall8702

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Yes! In Houston, seems like people either have no lights on(dude it's 11 o clock, how much darker are you waiting for it to get? ) or they have the late model LED/ projector lights that do nothing for oncoming traffic but blind you. Many of the areas we have to travel in are not very well lit, so what your vehicle has makes a difference. The Burb lights are pretty good for stock, but I want to do the 4 high mod once I have the funds for the harness. Upper corners too. Y'all gonna see me coming LOL.

You don't need a harness for 4 hi mod, that is if u are going to use leds. Need a few feet of wire, a 5 prong 30a relay and about 20 minutes to put it in ( didn't see what year truck ur driving but 95-99 is very simple) . I use 4 sided 6000k isincer leds, can get all 4 bulbs for less than $30. The short is , leds draw waaay less than halogen bulbs so adding 4 bulbs to the circuit isn't close to overloading the wiring. Also with wiring the relay in, it supplies direct power to bulbs so not actually taxing factory circuit. And the way the relay is wired, if relay takes a **** or u don't want 4hi, u can pull relay and lights function same as oem. Done this to over 2 dozen gmt400s in last 5 years with zero issues.
 
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