Bowtie Brody's Namesake 96 454

[KansasOBS]

The hoses can definitely be an area with these. If you're debating the NBS swap, I'll say that even with my stupid heavy wheels, the brakes on my swap have been working pretty good as far as stopping. I'm not even sure I have all of the air out, also not sure if the rears are even working that well.

I did the complete swap with hydroboost, and deleted the ABS with just an old school disc front, drum rear proportioning valve. I'm really not a fan of how GM mounted calipers for a lot of years. They have a tendency to bind against the knuckle, instead of actually free floating.

You'll also solve the whole having to pull hubs to get the rotors off also.

 

[South VA]

Passenger side caliper got stuck and wore down the inside pad; I suspect that my repair I previously did failed, so it's back to a temporary fix. Pulled the pins out and greased them, slapped on a cheap set of pads and bled the brakes, hopefully I can get by on this for a few weeks. I'm still trying to scrape the money together to redo the front end, I had stuff on order but had to cancel because of a few unexpected expenses.
Oh well, such is life. I'm going to try and grab a pair of NBS knuckles next time I'm at the bone yard when I have time, I'm still in the mind set of "needs to be done, might as well upgrade"

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@South VA, be sure to enjoy that new shop for me while I'm still here in the dirt

@BNielsen - ouch! I feel your pain. Hang in there!

 

[BNielsen]

The hoses can definitely be an area with these. If you're debating the NBS swap, I'll say that even with my stupid heavy wheels, the brakes on my swap have been working pretty good as far as stopping. I'm not even sure I have all of the air out, also not sure if the rears are even working that well.

I did the complete swap with hydroboost, and deleted the ABS with just an old school disc front, drum rear proportioning valve. I'm really not a fan of how GM mounted calipers for a lot of years. They have a tendency to bind against the knuckle, instead of actually free floating.

You'll also solve the whole having to pull hubs to get the rotors off also.

That's my biggest reason for wanting NBS knuckles; two birds one stone, makes it easier to service and gives me better braking capabilities. I'm wanting to swap to disc in the rear hopefully in the near future.
My only gripe about the brake lines from the GMT400 to 800 knuckles is I'm finding conflicting things about aftermarket brake lines, I'm definitely going to braided steel lines but I've seen a few swaps who stated that the Russel lines they replaced the factory ones with hooked right up to the NBS calipers with no issue.
Also, on your front diff swap, you used the GMT800 center, but kept your 1996 axles correct?
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Knocked out a little thing today, I've been tired of the stickers on the back of the truck, some of them have been on there since I first bought it so I figured now is a good a time as any to clean up the old ones and throw some new on.

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[Thatlowchevy]

It’s about time you do something

 

[Supercharged111]

Rear discs are overrated. Drum brakes last forever. And that Little Shop kit everyone buys is a fvckin hot mess. My Monte has the same deal out back on its 9" and it's awful. Long term I need to get something else back there.

 

[BNielsen]

Rear discs are overrated. Drum brakes last forever. And that Little Shop kit everyone buys is a fvckin hot mess. My Monte has the same deal out back on its 9" and it's awful. Long term I need to get something else back there.

I was looking at the Lugnut 4x4 kit, most everything I've seen for the full float 14 bolts is amazing reviews. I've got a leaky wheel seal and I told myself if I ever have to pull the axle apart I'm getting discs.
I was hoping I could swap the inboard hubs on my current axle with outboards similar to the later 14BFF and Suburban axles, but I don't know if it'll work.

It’s about time you do something

Hey get back in the cellar

 

[Supercharged111]

This looks to be the same crap design unless I'm missing something.

3/4 Ton Disc Brake Conversion Kit | Emergency Brake Caliper

If you want to get rid of those archaic drum brakes from your 3/4 ton rear axle, Lugnut 4x4 carries a variety of Single Upgraded Disc Brake Conversion Kits with emergency brake calipers. Shop now.

lugnut4x4.com

There's nothing to support the caliper. Those bolts and the rubbers that ride on them were never meant to bear the forces of braking. You're familiar with how the front calipers get wedged into the knuckle, the knuckle is what holds the caliper when you jam on the brakes. The bolts and rubbers are only there to let the caliper slide for pad wear.

 

[BNielsen]

This looks to be the same crap design unless I'm missing something.

3/4 Ton Disc Brake Conversion Kit | Emergency Brake Caliper

If you want to get rid of those archaic drum brakes from your 3/4 ton rear axle, Lugnut 4x4 carries a variety of Single Upgraded Disc Brake Conversion Kits with emergency brake calipers. Shop now.

lugnut4x4.com

There's nothing to support the caliper. Those bolts and the rubbers that ride on them were never meant to bear the forces of braking. You're familiar with how the front calipers get wedged into the knuckle, the knuckle is what holds the caliper when you jam on the brakes. The bolts and rubbers are only there to let the caliper slide for pad wear.

I've never seen the Little Shop MFG design, I've never heard of a failure unless I haven't dug deep enough.
But it's still doesn't inspire confidence looking at the kit from that angle. There's a local guy to me who runs that kit on his K20 Suburban, that's the biggest thing that got my eye on Lugnut4x4;

 

[KansasOBS]

That's my biggest reason for wanting NBS knuckles; two birds one stone, makes it easier to service and gives me better braking capabilities. I'm wanting to swap to disc in the rear hopefully in the near future.
My only gripe about the brake lines from the GMT400 to 800 knuckles is I'm finding conflicting things about aftermarket brake lines, I'm definitely going to braided steel lines but I've seen a few swaps who stated that the Russel lines they replaced the factory ones with hooked right up to the NBS calipers with no issue.
Also, on your front diff swap, you used the GMT800 center, but kept your 1996 axles correct?

Correct. I started to type you out a small book here, then realized you were just asking about outer axles. There is some important info in the other thread about using the inners also, and the shields. Everything on these units swap over, you may have to do a small amount of clearancing in some spots on the pumpkin, a lot of added webbing, etc. I just had to touch a couple places lightly with a grinder, probably could have got by without it. I am unsure in that area, as I have the RC 6" lift.

If you're pondering it, I'd say give it a try. The NBS diffs can be found for fairly cheap, or grab a donor for cheap that someone already yanked a 6.0 out of or something. I dont have a lot of data yet, as far as beating on mine, but its a night and day difference in appearance. Early pumpkin kind of looks like a toy.

Wanted to go braided lines, but the budget told me to just put the NBS lines on. With the lift the added length worked out anyhow. I'm sure you've read up on the line thread differences. The NBS lines were back to a standard 7/16-24. Man could just reflare those onto his lines if he wanted.

Dont know about widths, but have looked at those disc kits, and then thought if the NBS rear stuff could be swapped it would be a lot better, or find a whole rear. I have a 14bolt FF sitting under the donor I need to look at, but wont work for my duals.

 

[BNielsen]

Correct. I started to type you out a small book here, then realized you were just asking about outer axles. There is some important info in the other thread about using the inners also, and the shields. Everything on these units swap over, you may have to do a small amount of clearancing in some spots on the pumpkin, a lot of added webbing, etc. I just had to touch a couple places lightly with a grinder, probably could have got by without it. I am unsure in that area, as I have the RC 6" lift.

If you're pondering it, I'd say give it a try. The NBS diffs can be found for fairly cheap, or grab a donor for cheap that someone already yanked a 6.0 out of or something. I dont have a lot of data yet, as far as beating on mine, but its a night and day difference in appearance. Early pumpkin kind of looks like a toy.

Wanted to go braided lines, but the budget told me to just put the NBS lines on. With the lift the added length worked out anyhow. I'm sure you've read up on the line thread differences. The NBS lines were back to a standard 7/16-24. Man could just reflare those onto his lines if he wanted.

Dont know about widths, but have looked at those disc kits, and then thought if the NBS rear stuff could be swapped it would be a lot better, or find a whole rear. I have a 14bolt FF sitting under the donor I need to look at, but wont work for my duals.

I do have an opportunity to get a diff out of an 02 2500HD, maybe pull a diff from a 98 K2500 as well to compare to two.
I've also got a lead on an H2 part out, which means a front locker for a 9.25 front diff, just have to do a little more research on it while I collect parts.
I did think about an NBS 14-bolt, but was concerned about having to reweld axle perches and shock mounts.
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It really is the simple things.

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Got the Firestone Ride-Rite decal in, I didn't get one with the airbag kit and I figured since it's got it I wanted a decal to show off in a way I guess.
For some reason I think a truck is 10x cooler when it has airbags. Why? I have no idea.