Bought a CC Dually 454 Whipple

[Supercharged111]

Funny, every time I fire up the Monte I too am faced with the overwhelming urge to do a burnout. Seeing how effortless they are they happen frequently. Sadly only a 1 tire fire right now, but some day that will change.

I knocked some studs back into the hubs to make them one again with the rotors.

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Bear in mind the only new thing here is the rotor. That looks way better than what I took out. Next up I yanked the studs from the hub extenders and cleaned those up.

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I'll take that. You can even see the original machine marks. They ought to stay clean for a while now.

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Once this was done I had 8 hub bolts and 16 more lug studs to hit with the wire wheel on the bench grinder. A bit tedious, but they came out great. Something I noticed with the outer studs vs the inners was that they weren't all the same. I had 9 of the 9.8 studs and 7 of the 10.9, with the 10.9 coming out shinier. That leads me to believe that the inferior 9.8 was factory

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I would agree on the 9.8. Doing the brakes on my K2500 Suburban right now as well...bought new wheels studs 10.9, the units that are there and that came with the NOS USA Made Timken unit bearings are 9.8.

Burnouts are a necessity. If I get the '49 or Z28 out, it like to heat the tires up before I put them away, keeps the tire "rounder"

 

[89RCLB]

I'm pretty sure that's the first time I've even seen a glimpse of your Monte. I know that you have it due to your sig. Got a build thread on it?

I had an '83 that I built for the drag strip in Pueblo way back in 2005. I'll see if I can find some pics of it.

 

[Supercharged111]

It's no show queen, but it drives pretty nice now.

1983 Big Block Monte Slow Build (Lowered Expectations)

I got this car from my dad upon his untimely death. The majority of the build is done, but it needs some serious cleaning up and I suppose more pics taken. It has the GenV 454/TH400 from his old motorhome with a baby Comp 256 cam. It also has a 9" rear with upper and lower heim jointed arms...

gbodyforum.com

 

[Sean Buick 76]

@df2x4 @kennythewelder Can we amend this lame 5 pic per post limit?

I went on to start cleaning things up. I started with the lugs.

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I think I can live with that. Next up was the hubs.

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They came out pretty nice too. Here they are with a coat of VHT chassis and roll bar paint. Gonna let them dry overnight before making them one again with some fresh rotors and those clean studs. Now I'm none too thrilled about reinstalling these bad boys.

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I had to remove them with 2 wrenches glommed together. Not sure how I should torque them on reassembly? I see the GMT800 units have holes drilled for an extension to fit through but man oh man they want a pretty penny for some used units there! Overall a terrible thing to have to service, I just thank the lucky stars this thing isn't a rotbox!

Setup a test bolt on a vice or similar and use a torque wrench to torque the bolt up to spec then use your double wrench method to loosen the bolt. Do this a few times then test it the other way seeing if your torque wrench clicks when you try it after using the wrench to tighten it. Once you have a good feel for the torque you can go ahead and tighten the bolts knowing you are close to spec.

 

[454cid]

Not enough clearance to get a socket in there, to get those spacers on? What's the torque spec? Could you drop down to a 3/8" drive socket and torque wrench and have room?

Once this was done I had 8 hub bolts and 16 more lug studs to hit with the wire wheel on the bench grinder. A bit tedious, but they came out great. Something I noticed with the outer studs vs the inners was that they weren't all the same. I had 9 of the 9.8 studs and 7 of the 10.9, with the 10.9 coming out shinier. That leads me to believe that the inferior 9.8 was factory

Weird. I have not noticed bolts less than 10.9. I'm sure there are a few, but it's something I typically look at since I too am in the practice of cleaning up original hardware before re-use. It's amazed me in that even some hardware that I would think inconsequential to use a lesser grade, GM used 10.9, on our trucks.

 

[Supercharged111]

I consulted with a trusted colleague who's used the double wrench method to reinstall for ages and not had a problem so I relied on my calibrated arm to send the hub extender home that way. It seems there is no other methodical way to set those extenders back down.

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If that looks like more hardware than originally intended that's because it is. When I went to press the caliper pistons back in even with the bleeder screws cranked in they straight up didn't want to go. That got me trying to recollect back to 2018 when I'd nabbed these terrible brake pads off of the wrecked dually I'd junked. They were like brand new, but the least grabbiest most fadiest compound known to man. Free FTW but I'll be damned if I didn't have flashbacks to force feeding those pistons back into the hole. Yay me and rushed brake jobs. Not today ISIS. Those calipers are headed back to Blow Reilly's worst reman facility. What I got in return for money was, at first glance, a pleasant surprise. Painted calipers with full hardware, greased, new banjo bolts and crush washers. After a gravity bleed the pedal was normal and I found no leaks. I need to do a test drive and recheck torque on the adapters and wheels to make sure everything was seated prior to final torque. Then probably keep my eye on it fairly closely after that too. This is definitely a job I didn't want to have to deal with in MI in the middle of winter with no garage. So as much as I wish my hanger here was insulated with a more efficient heat source, I am going to miss everything about it and my undersized 20x20 attached garage.

 

[termite]

other methodical way to set those extenders back down.

Crow foot wrench on a torque wrench? Would require some math but possible if the spec isn't higher than the quality of the crow's foot.

 

[Supercharged111]

Crow foot wrench on a torque wrench? Would require some math but possible if the spec isn't higher than the quality of the crow's foot.

I thought about that, but I don't have one that big. Looks easy enough though.

How to Use a Torque Wrench with a Crowfoot Wrench | TEKTON

Learn how to accurately use a torque wrench with a crowfoot wrench to measure torque. Use the included Torque Conversion Calculator.

www.tekton.com

An open ended unit would be a no go, this needs to survive 140 ft/lb.

 

[termite]

I thought about that, but I don't have one that big. Looks easy enough though.

How to Use a Torque Wrench with a Crowfoot Wrench | TEKTON

Learn how to accurately use a torque wrench with a crowfoot wrench to measure torque. Use the included Torque Conversion Calculator.

www.tekton.com

An open ended unit would be a no go, this needs to survive 140 ft/lb.

Looks like the arm torque wrench it is then.