another attention SAS guys

[eg30.06]

BTW im also from CT. if you have your heart set on shortening your existing shaft let me know and I can do it for you. Its a piece of cake.

he thanks for the info i will go back to the junk yard (chuck n eddies, dont know if you heard of them) and try my luck for a driveshaft. the only problem im thinking i might have is that i have the u-joint straps holding the shaft to the t-case not the bolt on flange like on the pre 94 i think. i just got my rear shaft yoke changed to a 1410 by Fleetpride in Hartford, did a great job just a lil pricy. where abouts are you in CT im from canton.

 

[891Ton]

Im from Durham its near wallingford. I go to chuck and eddies all the time its pretty close to me. There is a few of those trucks there. There is a lot more GMT 400's but I was there a couple weeks ago pulling parts and there was about 3-4 box bodies there. I know a guy that I get parts from that has tons of them. he sells them for $50 bucks each (the double cardan type) if you want his number let me know. hes out my way. But if you dont have the bolt on flange and you already had the shaft changed to 1410 and thats what you are going to bolt directly to the tcase, then no those shafts wont work unless you go to a 1410 yoke at the Tcase too. The 1410 dwarfs the 1330 1350's that these trucks had to beging with so there is no way you are going to be able to bolt this thing up now. Why did you go to 1410 at the rear joint? And are you sure you have a 241C? The front joint is the one that is going to be the first to snap. The front rear u joint will almost never break if you use the double cardan type. I would look to get a flange on that tcase or just swap it out for a case with a flange and use the double cardan shafts that are a dime a dozen. you can find an np241c for about $75 on craigslist all the time. Actually the guy that has the drive shafts had one last time i was there. I get 1350 slip yokes from Tom Woods Drive shafts that go right on the 32 spline shafts and I can just swap the slip yokes off. I use Tom Woods Super Flex joints to get more clearance and they are 1350 and very strong. I have never broken one.

the box body shaft, with a 1350 32 spline TW slip yoke and superflex joints are your best combo for that truck with that tcase hands down.

 

[eg30.06]

okay yeah i know the area. i was there about a week ago to get the driveshaft and saw there were several box style and our style trucks there. the rear driveshaft is the one that i got changed to a 1410 reason being i put a 14 bolt ff out of a 03 2500hd which has factory 1410 joints. yes the t case is a 241c but i think that before i go and change out the t case i will just spend to 65$ and get the shaft shortened. i probably will not do any wheeling with it besides trail riding so i am not to worried about strength. i was just thinking though, could i take the front part of the driveshaft out of a older box body style and the t case side of the shaft i have now and slide them together (if the splines are the same) and see if the length is close.

 

[891Ton]

If you get a shaft out of the 80's ones it will be the same. The older ones are corse splines and wont work. But the front joint on those slip yokes are 1310-1330. They suck for wheeling but it will bolt up to your D60 fine. Or you can run a combination joint. I have the part numbers if you need them.

 

[891Ton]

The other thing you can do (what a lot of yota guys do) is cut you yokes off your shaft and weld them to square box. Run a slightly smaller size square tube at the front that will slide right into a larger size square tube for the back part of the shaft. They work real good. If you don't get what im saying google images "square drive shaft".

 

[jps4jeep]

^^^ thats what I run on my Jeep, make sure for the outer tube you use tube specified for receiver hitches. It does not have the welded seam on the inside so the smaller tube will fit in and slide without issue.

Not all 241 with the fixed front output are flanges. Mine is a yoke and as far as I know it is stock.

 

[dirtridinz71]

Not all 241 with the fixed front output are flanges. Mine is a yoke and as far as I know it is stock.

I think it was 95 that they changed to the yoke output instead of the flange. The newer driveshaft is a fair mount longer then the older one with the flange.

 

[eg30.06]

The other thing you can do (what a lot of yota guys do) is cut you yokes off your shaft and weld them to square box. Run a slightly smaller size square tube at the front that will slide right into a larger size square tube for the back part of the shaft. They work real good. If you don't get what im saying google images "square drive shaft".

thanks, thats really neat never seen that before. i will have to look into that a lil more.