99 Suburban LT K1500 - Slow build

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Jrgunn5150

Enjoying tomorrow's success today
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
5,847
Reaction score
1,283
Location
Ionia Michigan
Yeah, shackle flip.

If this is stock, I don't see how it was ever considered a comfortable family hauler lol. It's rough - jarring, neck breaking, rough.

Shocks are what came with the kit, superlift superride bilsteins. The rear rode the same way prior to the lift.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
Weird, my pickup also rides terribly. Swapping tires/wheels and playing with air pressure improved it, but it's still pretty bad.

My Yukon rode great, like a pillow, so I'm guessing I have something wrong in the pick up

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

davkenrem

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
102
Reaction score
26
So, I'm strongly considering selling it. Been looking at diesels last few days... But there is still hope.

If I do keep her, I've got to get the rear suspension (quality/comfort) addressed. The front is pretty good now, after the lift, but the back is just brutal. Every little imperfection in the road feels like I'm driving over a damn curb.

Only thing I can do is add new body bushings and replace the leaf spring bushings - or is there something else I can do: suggestions?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

This summer I bought a rust free 1997 Chevy Suburban K1500 with a bad rearend for $675.00 from Craigsliet. It had 190,000 on the chassis and 40,000 on the rebuilt engine. Rebulit the rearend and I have a nice suburban for under $1650. Watch Craigslist in Phoenix and Flagstaff. You may find a vehicle that has body damage or rear end or tranny problems with a good engine that someone just wants to unload.

Or look for a wrecked 2000 or newer for a 5.3 or 6 liter. Check out copart.com. you can buy wrecked vehicle sold by insurance companies for pennies on the dollar. Your burb is really close to being done and when it finished you'll have confidence that you know everything has been fixed right and the the way you want it. If you buy something else used you'll have to start over unless you buy something already done or new for allot more money.

Whats great about this vintage of truck is that parts are plentiful and fairly inexpensive and they are easy to work on. You have done allot of good work already, I know your frustrated but don't give up. Were all rooting for you and living vicariously through your progress.
 

99'Subourbon

Longroof NOOA Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
1,326
Reaction score
257
Location
Show Low, AZ
Maybe the PO installed some gnarly stiff springs in the rear - he was the owner of a liquidation company and used the burb to haul stuff with. Come to think of it, my rear end doesn't sag at all. I can jump up and down on the rear bumper with all my force @ 252lbs, and the back doesn't budge.

-

Regarding the truck itself, it's still up in the air. And I agree 100% with the previous comments; I know whats wrong with it, I know whats been done, and going into something else presents another money sink. Maybe if I can figure out what is wrong with the motor, I can just replace/refresh the heads and spend the rest of the motor budget on doing a marine intake, with a cam - but I think the bottom end is going out. I know I said previously I ruled out an LS swap as an option, but I think I'd rather have an LQ4 than a 383 now, if I could get a LQ4 swap done under $3000.

I don't think I can shave any off $2000 for a decent tranny - that just needs to be done. If I end up going a cam swap that raises the powerband into higher rpms, I need to factor in a good converter too. I don't tow at all, so I don't mind losing a little lower rpm power.

Hog @ pacificp said he knows a guy who sells complete, ready to install marine intake swaps, for $700 - but I haven't been able to figure who it is yet.

Lastly, there is a 12v Gen I Cummins I've had in an old work truck - but I am not sure that is in the budget to be rebuilt properly, then a standalone tranny controller, and a tranny to hold up to the torque that thing would create.
 

Cokeman95

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Messages
3,020
Reaction score
1,994
Location
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Maybe the PO installed some gnarly stiff springs in the rear - he was the owner of a liquidation company and used the burb to haul stuff with. Come to think of it, my rear end doesn't sag at all. I can jump up and down on the rear bumper with all my force @ 252lbs, and the back doesn't budge.

-

Regarding the truck itself, it's still up in the air. And I agree 100% with the previous comments; I know whats wrong with it, I know whats been done, and going into something else presents another money sink. Maybe if I can figure out what is wrong with the motor, I can just replace/refresh the heads and spend the rest of the motor budget on doing a marine intake, with a cam - but I think the bottom end is going out. I know I said previously I ruled out an LS swap as an option, but I think I'd rather have an LQ4 than a 383 now, if I could get a LQ4 swap done under $3000.

I don't think I can shave any off $2000 for a decent tranny - that just needs to be done. If I end up going a cam swap that raises the powerband into higher rpms, I need to factor in a good converter too. I don't tow at all, so I don't mind losing a little lower rpm power.

Hog @ pacificp said he knows a guy who sells complete, ready to install marine intake swaps, for $700 - but I haven't been able to figure who it is yet.

Lastly, there is a 12v Gen I Cummins I've had in an old work truck - but I am not sure that is in the budget to be rebuilt properly, then a standalone tranny controller, and a tranny to hold up to the torque that thing would create.
My 95 k1500 extended cab rode like crap unless I had 500 or 600 pounds in it. Turns out the springs had been replaced with new springs but instead of the factory 4 springs it had 6. With myself and two buddies we could just barely move the back end up and down.

Also don't sell it. I sold my 96 c1500 almost 9 years ago and still miss it. Just my .02.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

slowburb

all motor
Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
1,632
Reaction score
676
Location
Louisiana
I'm running a "395" cammed 355 with MPFI/stock intake in my Suburban with a transbuilderguy stage 3 4L60E and S10/B29 converter. It is plenty of power. In fact, I just returned from a 3500 mile trip from LA to NY for the holidays, fully loaded with wife/3 kids/2 weeks worth of crap. Ask any of the jokers I passed on I-81 in the mountains how much balls that big green beast has.
 

99'Subourbon

Longroof NOOA Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
1,326
Reaction score
257
Location
Show Low, AZ
My rear springs have 5 leafs, so that must be it. Makes sense now as to why the u bolts with the superlift block were just barely long enough 1-2 threads past the nyloc nuts.

Edit: well unless they are heavy duty 5 leafs (4/1), looks like that is standard on a suburban. Ergh. Not sure what else it could be.
 
Last edited:

99'Subourbon

Longroof NOOA Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
1,326
Reaction score
257
Location
Show Low, AZ
Any other suggestions on ride quality for the rear? Can there be different stiffness 5 leaf springs?

On a different note, having a hard time deciding between Transbuilderguy, FLT, and Performabuilt. I'll be playing the order 3 weeks from now. In other words, I'm keeping my truck, unless I come across a crazy good deal.
 
Last edited:

99'Subourbon

Longroof NOOA Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
1,326
Reaction score
257
Location
Show Low, AZ
Placed an order for redoing my interior in LEDS. Got all high powered from Yitamotors plus a few backup. Also have a few miscellaneous parts coming to fix broken interior pieces.

In 2 weeks or so, I'll be placing my tranny order, and getting my exhaust fixed/redone.
 
Top