383 performance questions

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SAATR

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Wow! You've got that 383 breathing through a straw! A 454 TB with Ultimate Mods should help out in that department, along with either the 1.6 ratio rockers or a new cam (or both). As has been mentioned already, make sure you have ample retainer-to-guide and retainer-to-seal clearance in your heads, to prevent any interference issues. Let that baby breathe!
 

Greensmith

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I will keep these in mind while I make my choices.
a couple of questions though:
...if you switch to the O-ring type oiling system(like on older engines)
Could you elaborate on how to go about this, or point me in the direction of a tut. or write-up on it? can't seem to find any info on it.
Also, would a stock sized 454 TB w/mods be enough for this engine, or should I go for the bored version?
 

MOBS

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A stock 454 tbi benches around 600cfm.....I've never seen or talked to anyone about the numbers of a modded 454 tbi, but it would definitely help. The O-ring type oiling system is the type seen on engines from before the tbi engines, the retainers have splash shields below them that helps keep oil around the top of the valve, the valve itself has 2 slots, one to hold the "keys" and the lower one to hold the O-ring. The tbi and vortec valves have single slots to hold the "keys" only, and have an oil seal that sits on top the valve guide on head. Usually if I'm changing the valves to 1-pc valves, I'll order valves with 2-slot shafts so i can switch to the older oiling system which allows .030" higher lift and better valve oiling. If you're wanting to keep your stock valves, you can take your heads to a machine shop and tell them you're wanting to switch from oil seal to o-ring valves and if the shop knows anything about performance engines, they will know what to do. The only thing you'll have to do is acquire retainers, splash shields, keys, and o-rings for your cut valves. They'll put the valves on a lathe and cut a 2nd slot below the retainer/key slot, which is where the O-ring will mount.
 

MOBS

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This here is like your stock retainers currently, notice there is JUST a flat retainer, no splash shield around the top of valve spring.
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Now notice in this pic, that there are little splash shields around the top of valve springs, these are what your's will look like after the O-ring conversion.
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MOBS

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Using correct technical terms, you can search for info on using "umbrella seals" or "O-ring seals". The tbi and vortec heads used oil seals to try and stop any/all oil from seeping down into the valve guides....this was for emissions only, but the downside is it virtually stops the lubrication of the valve stems. Another thing you can do for increased oiling of the stems, is to have your valve stems "shot-peened"....this creates small dimples in the valve, increasing oiling of the stem.
 
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prob in wrong post or need to start a new one I'm new to the forum. so i will take all help i can get i have a 91 gmc just had a 383 built for it little bit bigger cam that's for computer controlled tbi engine just got the fuel pumps the chip and regulator spring from tbi chips the engine would rattle after getting on throttle hard and would give a knock sensor code after installing all stuff from tbi chips the light will stay off but now after i get on it the engine sounds like the 6.2 diesel any ideas. thanks
 

am92

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prob in wrong post or need to start a new one I'm new to the forum. so i will take all help i can get i have a 91 gmc just had a 383 built for it little bit bigger cam that's for computer controlled tbi engine just got the fuel pumps the chip and regulator spring from tbi chips the engine would rattle after getting on throttle hard and would give a knock sensor code after installing all stuff from tbi chips the light will stay off but now after i get on it the engine sounds like the 6.2 diesel any ideas. thanks
Huh? Punctuation? Sounds like valvetrain maybe
 
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