2000 K3500 4x4 CC DRW

[cool_as_crap]

I'm going to hit up Lex soon by email to see if he'll hook me up with a pcm with base tune, I hope he gets back to me since he's been scarce around here lately. I'll see if I can get by without a real tune until I decide what to do, probably go hp tuners around xmas.

 

[Mangonesailor]

I'm going to hit up Lex soon by email to see if he'll hook me up with a pcm with base tune, I hope he gets back to me since he's been scarce around here lately. I'll see if I can get by without a real tune until I decide what to do, probably go hp tuners around xmas.

I would ask him to change your idle speeds.

This is the chart I asked him to use. I got it from the 454 thread on FSC. Compared to the lower speeds and now, I DEFINITELY recommend doing this.

The drivability of the tune is nice. The fuel cutoff seems.... Aggressive... It will be a surprise but you'll learn to live around it until you can tune it yourself I guess. I'd like it to keep fuel on a little longer myself, maybe 1-1.5sec longer.

I also asked for torque management to be deleted and for tow-haul mode. The shifter that you need is simple to put in, so I'd ask for it. I did ask him to set PE to zero, and he said he never does that... And I believe he did not. Look into it once you get your tuner.

Here's the idle speed chart:

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[cool_as_crap]

I added trans temp sensor last week, paint doesn't match great, but close enough

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I threw in a blue led, idk if I like it enough to put the blue leds in my cluster.

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[Mangonesailor]

Got a write-up or anything to refer to for that trans temp sensor?

 

[cool_as_crap]

Got a write-up or anything to refer to for that trans temp sensor?

Heck yeah!

Here's the gauge I bought, autometer Z gauge after recommendations here.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2640

I mainly followed this thread for the wiring. I enjoyed taking out that damn door buzzer more than anything
http://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-install-a-trans-temp-gauge-in-a-95-gmt400-with-a-4l60e.17168/

I ran the temp sender wire down the A pillar, under the carpet, and through the grommet for the 4wd shifter, right in front of the driver's seat.
I only took off the floor door trim piece and was able to feel under the carpet to run the wire.

Plugging in the temp sensor in the 4l80e is a pain if you don't remove the shift linkage, which I did not.
I had to rely on feel 100% to find the pressure test port plug deallie **** that you replace the sensor with.
Here's a pic of the plug you remove:

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I believe it's a 12mm.

Screw in the temp sensor, then you have to attach the wire and bolt it on with a smaller size, 9mm i think.

All you really need is stubby wrenches, a lot of patience, and a few cases of your favorite IPA beer (Joe 10 barrel did it for me).
Trust me, don't try it without short wrenches. I had to buy a set because previously I thought of them as a luxury, but i couldn't have done it without them.

 

[cool_as_crap]

For the gauge pod install I ground down this nub with a dremel.
The pod attaches to your factory A pillar, I wanted the gauge as low as possible, though I didn't attach the pod until after i installed the A piller.

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With the nub and clip, manipulating the A pillar out of the way in the future will be a huge pain.
Grounding the nub will hopefully help removal/install in the future, but if I can help it i'll be running all future wires through the passenger side A pillar (future overhead console/DIC)

 

[cool_as_crap]

I think this truck wins the prize of most labor intensive brake job in my experience.
Gotta remove the damn axle nut and hub to get the rotors off.

Anyone have experience with powerstop?
I'm thinking about going big on a caliper/rotor/pad kit and hopefully never have to think about replacing brakes again.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7595548&cc=1358737&jsn=355

 

[Christian Steffen]

I would ask him to change your idle speeds.

This is the chart I asked him to use. I got it from the 454 thread on FSC. Compared to the lower speeds and now, I DEFINITELY recommend doing this.

The drivability of the tune is nice. The fuel cutoff seems.... Aggressive... It will be a surprise but you'll learn to live around it until you can tune it yourself I guess. I'd like it to keep fuel on a little longer myself, maybe 1-1.5sec longer.

I also asked for torque management to be deleted and for tow-haul mode. The shifter that you need is simple to put in, so I'd ask for it. I did ask him to set PE to zero, and he said he never does that... And I believe he did not. Look into it once you get your tuner.

Here's the idle speed chart:

You must be registered for see images attach

I personally like the DFCO, when the tcc is locked it slows the truck down nicely.

I would hope he would remove the PE delay and TM for you, it is really easy to shut that stuff off and it makes a HUGE difference.

If you have him enable tow-haul but don't want to swap shifters all you need is a momentary button to ground the wire.

 

[Mangonesailor]

I personally like the DFCO, when the tcc is locked it slows the truck down nicely.

I would hope he would remove the PE delay and TM for you, it is really easy to shut that stuff off and it makes a HUGE difference.

If you have him enable tow-haul but don't want to swap shifters all you need is a momentary button to ground the wire.

That's true, you can just hook up a momentary switch to ground, but it took me all of 15min to fit the shifter and maybe 30 to run the wire and tuck it all up nicely. When I towed my Subaru home I definitely felt the difference in how long the truck held its gears and it still shifted smoothly.

I do like the DFCO as well, but my TCC unlocks every damn time it comes on. So then fuel comes, the motor spools, and then it eventually locks again. I'd rather the TCC lock at 52mph and F'N STAY THAT WAY until I go below it. Especially if I could get that to happen in Tow-haul I would be estatic.... but I has no tuner.

Yeah, he literally said "You never set PE to zero." Yeah, well, I'd really like more than 22* advance when accelerating. It tops out at about 32*. I had a friend at my old job that build Chevy big blocks to drag and had a cruiser with a 454. Said 35* is what you want, and you want it early. I showed him an accel spreadsheet of the log of a WOT take off and said "Your truck must be a real dog!" That, the stock cam, and the exhaust manifolds are the choke points. Timing is next once I get to it, and I'm definitely using a wideband. Then when the motor gets rebuilt (whenever that is) it'll get a ZZ502 cam and probably some larger valves. Oh, and a port job.

CaC, i've got about 15kmi left on these pads on my truck, then I'm probably going with EBCs. No slotted or drilled stuff due to risk of cracks, but I'd like a little more brake force up front. My hydroboost will get hoses at the same time and I'll probably mod my saginaw like I did my bronco to maximize the output pressure and flow.

 

[Christian Steffen]

That's true, you can just hook up a momentary switch to ground, but it took me all of 15min to fit the shifter and maybe 30 to run the wire and tuck it all up nicely. When I towed my Subaru home I definitely felt the difference in how long the truck held its gears and it still shifted smoothly.

I do like the DFCO as well, but my TCC unlocks every damn time it comes on. So then fuel comes, the motor spools, and then it eventually locks again. I'd rather the TCC lock at 52mph and F'N STAY THAT WAY until I go below it. Especially if I could get that to happen in Tow-haul I would be estatic.... but I has no tuner.

Yeah, he literally said "You never set PE to zero." Yeah, well, I'd really like more than 22* advance when accelerating. It tops out at about 32*. I had a friend at my old job that build Chevy big blocks to drag and had a cruiser with a 454. Said 35* is what you want, and you want it early. I showed him an accel spreadsheet of the log of a WOT take off and said "Your truck must be a real dog!" That, the stock cam, and the exhaust manifolds are the choke points. Timing is next once I get to it, and I'm definitely using a wideband. Then when the motor gets rebuilt (whenever that is) it'll get a ZZ502 cam and probably some larger valves. Oh, and a port job.

CaC, i've got about 15kmi left on these pads on my truck, then I'm probably going with EBCs. No slotted or drilled stuff due to risk of cracks, but I'd like a little more brake force up front. My hydroboost will get hoses at the same time and I'll probably mod my saginaw like I did my bronco to maximize the output pressure and flow.

That really isn't too bad, would probably be worth the little bit of work. And yeah I have all my tcc tables changed to my preference, so it stays locked a long time. When it goes into deep dfco it'll stay locked all the way down to 35, so I don't have to hit the brakes often.

They will definitely take more timing as long as you run premium fuel. There is more that goes into what it wants for timing than just being a 454, but I suppose as a ballpark number that's probably close. I generally run 28-32 degrees wot depending on rpm and iat, but if I don't run premium I will see it start to kick up some KR at times. At light cruising I run up to 40 degrees. The stock timing map does suck, and then the manifolds don't help any either.

Also, I saw someone somewhere on the internet that swapped in larger valves and it actually decreased head flow due to the valve shrouding.

A wideband is definitely nice to have too.