2000 Crew Cab Dually “Waylon”

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HotWheelsBurban

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40', 15k, and only 2 axles? That seems strange to me. Looks like a beast of a trailer.
I see a lot of trailers like this around the park and in Houston area. The one my family has is that size, but 3 axles. Many big ones I've seen are only 2 axles; I wouldn't figure they'd tow as well. Most people hauling them have newer dually trucks. Like the last 2 generation newer. Lotsa $$$$.
The guy we got ours from moved it with his '18 Ram Cummins powered 4x4 dually. Said it towed well( and I know how he drives, foot to the floor). He hauls a 2 car enclosed trailer with the same truck, all over the south.
 

Christian Steffen

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Full disclosure: Those numbers are estimates at best. I believe it’s a 380 something model number, and I’m pretty sure the sticker said it’s GRWR is like 14 and change. It’s friggin huge no matter how you slice it.

I only moved it around the camp ground, and I’m thankful for that. I would want no part of towing that beast around these parts. Down south with no hills, it would prob do just fine though.

I’ll be interested to see if I pick up any power after intake is sealed back up and new injectors and FPR. To be honest I feel like the truck is a bit of a dog. Any thoughts on installing the factory cam straight up with an aftermarket timing set that doesn’t have the built in 8* of retard?

I think it would help, but I really have no idea how much. Honestly if you're that far into it you may as well replace the cam too, you'd be 90% of the way there.
 

andy396

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I think it would help, but I really have no idea how much. Honestly if you're that far into it you may as well replace the cam too, you'd be 90% of the way there.

Except wouldn’t have the expense and effort into changing the springs, lifters, and studs. I’ve contemplated doing the same thing.
 

JSlezak83

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I knocked out a couple things that have been bugging me. Interior lights stuck on....last year, I modified the ground circuit for the cargo lamp to be separated from the interior lights. The ring terminal I added to the existing ground was touching the dome light. The heat from the bulb melted the plastic on the ring terminal and shorted the interior light circuit to ground.

I also hooked up a DVM between the ground cable at the battery. I had a draw of .08A. I pulled every fuse in the truck, one at a time, until I got to Aux B under the hood. It dropped to .04A. I then connected the under hood lamp, and it was pulling about 2A. I guess I really don’t have much of a parasitic draw. I have a backup camera that points at the ball when I have a draw bar in the receiver hitch. It’s tied to the 12V+ on the 7 pin trailer connector. I guess that’s what’s pulling .04A.

At this point, I’m guessing the battery is just toast. After more than a couple days it won’t crank. I keep the truck plugged into a 4A HarborFreight charger that plugs into the 7 pin trailer socket. That’s working for now.
 

Christian Steffen

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Except wouldn’t have the expense and effort into changing the springs, lifters, and studs. I’ve contemplated doing the same thing.

That's fair.. you'd also have to pull the cooling stack. It's a tough call for sure.

AFAIK cam retard will primarily shift the power curve up, so setting it back to zero would probably bring peak torque down a few hundred rpm?
 

Supercharged111

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That's fair.. you'd also have to pull the cooling stack. It's a tough call for sure.

AFAIK cam retard will primarily shift the power curve up, so setting it back to zero would probably bring peak torque down a few hundred rpm?

And advancing it would be that much better, excellent point. Unfortunately the timing cover needs to come off. I'm not sure if you can sneak it out and back on leaving the oil pan alone? I did it to a 350 TBI before to do the chain and gears only and it worked out fine.
 
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