2" block and crank?

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ShadowRejects

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thanks!!,, its a 3/4 ton with stock suspension,, i just added 2" blocks to the rear and cranked up on the t-bars,,, stock keys...

That is exactly what i am looking for. have you had ball joint issues or CVD issues?
 

tj98gmc

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not yet,, lol,,, i was told due to the 10" wide rims i most likely will,,, i replaced all ball joint and wheel bearings when i got the truck,,,

i love the hieght of my truck,,, i use it as a work truck,, (always hauling and towing things), i plow with it in the winter so i didnt want to go too high,,
 

dirtyhick42

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A little late to the party but my 98 with 35x12.5x17 with 1.5 inch block and crank.

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tj98gmc

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Why does the 3/4 ton sit higher anyway? Something with the frame?

anyone can correct if im wrong but the rear spring plies are all around bigger,, (wider and thicker) and there is more of them if im not mistaken,,, and the t-bar keys are different,,
 

JAW's

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Your wheel choice is really going to be the deciding factor on what will fit and what will not. You see guys fitting 35s with slightly any crank (if at all).

or like me. I could hardly fit 33s with aftermarket keys cranked to the max and no valance. I would not recommend this option. I quickly changed it.
{Also, before anyone says anything, the aftermarket keys did help my truck though it does not help everyone}

This is what I have now

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2" block, crank to about 1/3" to bump stop, 3" body lift, and 305/70/16s on 16x10s

I would like to run 35s but not sure if i could fit them

For refferance this is what it looked like Without BL... with max crank, 2" block

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iEnding

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Mind me asking but what do y'all's angles look like after the block and crank? I would love some pics
 

tylers88

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Mind me asking but what do y'all's angles look like after the block and crank? I would love some pics

You sure, they are UGLY

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The overall stance
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