1994 Chevy C3500 Crew Cab Long Bed Build Thread
- Thread starter JScott23
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Okay so after starting up my 6.5 for the first time in 6 months, after the delayed starter issue, i've discovered the fuel leak from the fuel filter underneath the intake plenum hasn't gotten any better. I've held off on pulling the motor, at least for a while. I plan to swap our DB2 6.5 or a 350 in this truck. Most likely the DB2. However for now i need to fix the fuel leak, it's causing really hard starting and lots of white smoke, and will probably trash the injection pump. So before i go get the insurance on it it's gonna get a oil change and a fuel leak fix..
Here's the junkyard motor someone threw in this truck at one time.. (chassis currently on 362k miles)
under this filter is a few lines where i believe the leak is coming from.. in order to get to it i'll most likely have to take the intake off to access the fuel lines underneath.
However this might be on hold for a while as school is coming to a end for the semester and my procrastination has left me with a lot to do.. hopefully i'll get a chance this sunday to knock it out.
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Here's the junkyard motor someone threw in this truck at one time.. (chassis currently on 362k miles)
You must be registered for see images attach
under this filter is a few lines where i believe the leak is coming from.. in order to get to it i'll most likely have to take the intake off to access the fuel lines underneath.
You must be registered for see images attach
However this might be on hold for a while as school is coming to a end for the semester and my procrastination has left me with a lot to do.. hopefully i'll get a chance this sunday to knock it out.
great white
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Normally, the fuel filter manager leaks from the water drain line that runs up under the Plenum to the T valve at the front of the engine. The hose gets old and brittle since it's not like regular fuel line. It's thinner gauge and is more affected by the engine heat. When the line gets brittle it weeps and leaks. Check it out.
actually i was wrong, the line on the back of the fuel filter towards the firewall is leaking at the coupling... might be a bad hose, might be the clamp.. if it's nice tommorow i'll rip that fuel filter assembly back off and try to sort the problem out..
Damn 6.5's... still love the way they sound though!
Damn 6.5's... still love the way they sound though!
great white
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Ah, gotcha.
It's probably the feed line split where the clamp goes on it then.
Another common spot when the lines get old.
I went around the whole issue with 1/2" pushlock and brass fittings:
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.
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That mechanical gauge has since been swapped out for an in cab digital one.
Okay so i know i'm really bad about keeping up with my own build threads on here. Welp basically this truck has been my ongoing project lately. About a month ago i finally hung it up with the DS4 and decided to drop in a DB2 Mechanical Injected 6.5 diesel.
The block finally broke at the starter pretty much ending the motor's run. For any 6.5 owners the brace at the front of the starter is CRUCIAL! If you don't have it eventually you'll break your bolts and from there on out its down hill. So with a broke block at the starter it was time to drop in the mechanical injected motor.
I just want to document everything in case anyone else wants to try it. Now i am swapping the complete motor, not just the injection pump. I can provide everyone information on what will be needed parts wise. IMO the DB2 is the best injection pump for the 6.5. The DS4's have potential to make more power, but the DB2's are consistent and reliable. They are driven by cable, rather than DBW (Drive by Wire) like the PMD controlled 6.5's are. There is no stalling, the throttle response is immediate. If you really get into it you can turn up the fuel on the DB2. But for me, I'm not looking for power. I'm looking for a reliable old diesel that can provide me with a solid 20MPG out on the road. If i wanted black smoke and power I'd swap a Cummins in it.
Cummins swaps are nice, but you better be ready to shell out big bucks. I've got about 3 grand in this truck thus far, to me not worth it to drop another $3k for a Cummins for a 94 Chevy 2WD. So some things have changed since you all have last seen the truck.
We started by pulling the motor, to free up the motor bay for the swap.
So it started out by getting everything unhooked ready for the pull. I've been really busy with work so i'm trying to fit this project in when i have time. Slow and steady hour by hour i got everything unhooked and ready to pull.
Then on a Sunday afternoon i finally got a good free day and me and a buddy got the motor pulled.
So i drove up to my dads place and picked up this, a 93 DB2 Mechanical Injected 6.5 with 50K on a rebuild. His flywheel bolts over time backed off causing a hellacious rattle that he thought was a broken crank. So he found a replacement engine off a truck with a blown tranny and dropped it in. Come to find out the torque converter/flywheel bolts were banging around inside the bellhousing. So we have a recently rebuilt DB2! No cost.
After getting the motor back, we replaced some lifters which my dad thought were a little noisy, so we tore down the motor to the long block and re did all of the gaskets.
After pulling the engine we had plenty of room to get everything started.
Now when swapping from a electrical injected diesel your going to run into a couple of problems. The 4L80E will not shift without a computer telling it too. I purchased the US Shift Controller from Baumann Electronics. At $587 shipped it is in my opinion one of the cheaper controllers available but still has benefits with 2 mode settings and full tuneability. Again, with this truck i have no intentions on it being a powerhouse, or heavy duty tow rig. I just am going for a classic diesel, with good MPG and a clean appearance.
The US Shift controller is a true standalone unit, and it is very easy to install. With the exception of the TPS, and IGN/Ground wires it's a plug and play installation. It took me like 30 minutes to run all the wires.
The factory GM style clips, just plug right into the transmission.
Now while wiring this, you will need to use wire loom. DONT get cheap. This wiring is solid, by no means cheap but it will not last unless it is protected. This loom will keep this lasting another 360k miles. So don't skimp. Plus this controller will work with any engine you bolt to it with the unlimited tuneability. So protect your investment.
Now to mount the optishift you need to keep it away from danger. It is not approved for under hood temperatures and if you plan to use a 2 dial mode for ECO/TOW modes you'll want to have it within reach. My kick panel under the steering wheel is broken so for now it will go here until i get another panel under the dash.
Now the truck sat for about a week with no motor until i had the time to drop it in, one night after work i swapped the PY0 wheels on it from the 97. I think with the stock bumpers its just a lot cleaner looking, and gives me the OE styling that i was going for.
Also after installing the optishift i had to track down a gas pedal from a 88-98 gas truck, and a throttle cable that would work with the DB2 mechanical pump. The only cable i found that will work is the ATP Y270 cable for a 6.2 step van. It doesn't say it will work for the 93 6.5 but it will.
Then after a week i finally got the opportunity to drop in the mechanical 6.5. Keeping the 6.5 also allows me to retain all of my factory gauges without any real modifications. This time another one of my buddies helped me drop in the motor.
After another couple of nights putting in a hour here and a hour there everything was bolted up. I bought a new spectre filter for the 454 so i put this Banks filter on the factory elbow for the 6.5. The flat air filter is just a pain.
So heres the truck now, motors in, hooked up, PY0's are installed, it's looking clean.
If you guys remember this truck once had vinyl bench seats w/ Rubber flooring, it now has buckets, a console and cloth seats. I just love this retro burgundy interior, especially with a red truck. Reminds me of our 93 C3500 crew cab that i grew up in. A big reason with where i'm going with this build.
So i'm sure you guys are wondering... motors in! does it run?
Not quite, the 94+ glow plug controller is ran off the PCM, so it doesn't have glow plugs. I'm currently waiting on parts. You'll need a 92-93 glow plug harness, and a 92-93 Glow plug controller. The connector runs about $40 and the glow plug controller runs anywhere from $60-150. I also need a new block heater cable.
The Db2 needs a 12V wire to the electric fuel shut off valve. That allows the DB2 to pump fuel. I'll need a free day where i can really work to prime the fuel lines to get it to run.
I also forgot exhaust gaskets so i'll need to install them to make sure the smoke goes out the tailpipe.
My future plans for this truck include:
- Touch up paint on the DS rear door, it's peeling.
- 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust with a 5" Tip.
- Boost, trans temp gauges, and a tach.
- LED Turn Signals
- Clear OE Style Headlights with 6000k HID's.
Stay Tuned!
The block finally broke at the starter pretty much ending the motor's run. For any 6.5 owners the brace at the front of the starter is CRUCIAL! If you don't have it eventually you'll break your bolts and from there on out its down hill. So with a broke block at the starter it was time to drop in the mechanical injected motor.
I just want to document everything in case anyone else wants to try it. Now i am swapping the complete motor, not just the injection pump. I can provide everyone information on what will be needed parts wise. IMO the DB2 is the best injection pump for the 6.5. The DS4's have potential to make more power, but the DB2's are consistent and reliable. They are driven by cable, rather than DBW (Drive by Wire) like the PMD controlled 6.5's are. There is no stalling, the throttle response is immediate. If you really get into it you can turn up the fuel on the DB2. But for me, I'm not looking for power. I'm looking for a reliable old diesel that can provide me with a solid 20MPG out on the road. If i wanted black smoke and power I'd swap a Cummins in it.
Cummins swaps are nice, but you better be ready to shell out big bucks. I've got about 3 grand in this truck thus far, to me not worth it to drop another $3k for a Cummins for a 94 Chevy 2WD. So some things have changed since you all have last seen the truck.
We started by pulling the motor, to free up the motor bay for the swap.
So it started out by getting everything unhooked ready for the pull. I've been really busy with work so i'm trying to fit this project in when i have time. Slow and steady hour by hour i got everything unhooked and ready to pull.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then on a Sunday afternoon i finally got a good free day and me and a buddy got the motor pulled.
You must be registered for see images attach
So i drove up to my dads place and picked up this, a 93 DB2 Mechanical Injected 6.5 with 50K on a rebuild. His flywheel bolts over time backed off causing a hellacious rattle that he thought was a broken crank. So he found a replacement engine off a truck with a blown tranny and dropped it in. Come to find out the torque converter/flywheel bolts were banging around inside the bellhousing. So we have a recently rebuilt DB2! No cost.
You must be registered for see images attach
After getting the motor back, we replaced some lifters which my dad thought were a little noisy, so we tore down the motor to the long block and re did all of the gaskets.
You must be registered for see images attach
After pulling the engine we had plenty of room to get everything started.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now when swapping from a electrical injected diesel your going to run into a couple of problems. The 4L80E will not shift without a computer telling it too. I purchased the US Shift Controller from Baumann Electronics. At $587 shipped it is in my opinion one of the cheaper controllers available but still has benefits with 2 mode settings and full tuneability. Again, with this truck i have no intentions on it being a powerhouse, or heavy duty tow rig. I just am going for a classic diesel, with good MPG and a clean appearance.
You must be registered for see images attach
The US Shift controller is a true standalone unit, and it is very easy to install. With the exception of the TPS, and IGN/Ground wires it's a plug and play installation. It took me like 30 minutes to run all the wires.
You must be registered for see images attach
The factory GM style clips, just plug right into the transmission.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now while wiring this, you will need to use wire loom. DONT get cheap. This wiring is solid, by no means cheap but it will not last unless it is protected. This loom will keep this lasting another 360k miles. So don't skimp. Plus this controller will work with any engine you bolt to it with the unlimited tuneability. So protect your investment.
Now to mount the optishift you need to keep it away from danger. It is not approved for under hood temperatures and if you plan to use a 2 dial mode for ECO/TOW modes you'll want to have it within reach. My kick panel under the steering wheel is broken so for now it will go here until i get another panel under the dash.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now the truck sat for about a week with no motor until i had the time to drop it in, one night after work i swapped the PY0 wheels on it from the 97. I think with the stock bumpers its just a lot cleaner looking, and gives me the OE styling that i was going for.
You must be registered for see images attach
Also after installing the optishift i had to track down a gas pedal from a 88-98 gas truck, and a throttle cable that would work with the DB2 mechanical pump. The only cable i found that will work is the ATP Y270 cable for a 6.2 step van. It doesn't say it will work for the 93 6.5 but it will.
Then after a week i finally got the opportunity to drop in the mechanical 6.5. Keeping the 6.5 also allows me to retain all of my factory gauges without any real modifications. This time another one of my buddies helped me drop in the motor.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
After another couple of nights putting in a hour here and a hour there everything was bolted up. I bought a new spectre filter for the 454 so i put this Banks filter on the factory elbow for the 6.5. The flat air filter is just a pain.
You must be registered for see images attach
So heres the truck now, motors in, hooked up, PY0's are installed, it's looking clean.
You must be registered for see images attach
If you guys remember this truck once had vinyl bench seats w/ Rubber flooring, it now has buckets, a console and cloth seats. I just love this retro burgundy interior, especially with a red truck. Reminds me of our 93 C3500 crew cab that i grew up in. A big reason with where i'm going with this build.
You must be registered for see images attach
So i'm sure you guys are wondering... motors in! does it run?
Not quite, the 94+ glow plug controller is ran off the PCM, so it doesn't have glow plugs. I'm currently waiting on parts. You'll need a 92-93 glow plug harness, and a 92-93 Glow plug controller. The connector runs about $40 and the glow plug controller runs anywhere from $60-150. I also need a new block heater cable.
The Db2 needs a 12V wire to the electric fuel shut off valve. That allows the DB2 to pump fuel. I'll need a free day where i can really work to prime the fuel lines to get it to run.
I also forgot exhaust gaskets so i'll need to install them to make sure the smoke goes out the tailpipe.
My future plans for this truck include:
- Touch up paint on the DS rear door, it's peeling.
- 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust with a 5" Tip.
- Boost, trans temp gauges, and a tach.
- LED Turn Signals
- Clear OE Style Headlights with 6000k HID's.
Stay Tuned!
Suburban1500
I'm Awesome
Great looking truck! Thats the same type i want next, (CCLB)
4thesporty
I'm Awesome
I have an A pillar gauge mount with trans temp, boost, and EGT gauges. Both the pillar pod and gauges are Autometer. Pretty easy to wire up. What questions do you have?
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