1994 C2500 ...<insert something clever here>

[BlueSuit82]

Love to see a 2WD Regular Cab Long Bed from time to time. Dont see em around much anymore outside of a construction site. Simple, classy rides...

 

[gd1]

I wouldn't put those seats in your truck unless you can figure out a way to use the factory bolt holes.

 

[ridiqls]

I wouldn't put those seats in your truck unless you can figure out a way to use the factory bolt holes.

How come?

I'm making custom mounting brackets that will use the factory bolt holes but will need to use a metal plate or sheet as an adapter.

 

[gd1]

Custom brackets that will use the old holes is fine, I'd just be leary of drilling holes in any old spot to mount the seats. The strength just isn't there like it is in the factory mount locations. Nice looking seats though, can't wait to see them mounted

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[ridiqls]

Custom brackets that will use the old holes is fine, I'd just be leary of drilling holes in any old spot to mount the seats. The strength just isn't there like it is in the factory mount locations. Nice looking seats though, can't wait to see them mounted

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Oh yeah wouldnt want those things to rip out in an accident. Luckily the truck and most GMCs seem to have the little humps where the buckets seats would go that are reinforced. Will post pics once I get them on.

Upcoming things:

New tires. Order 275/60r20s today. Falken rocky mountain ATS. Got great reviews and seems good for road use too and at $130 a pop it's really a bargain. the next AT tires I found were around $180 or so. Should be here earliest Saturday (hopefully) or next Monday. Once they come in, gotta get the car towed and get the tires replaced.

Then I can take the truck to the fabrication place to see if they can help with the brackets. Once that's done, seats are in. new carpet will be installed.
Also going to buy some SEM vinyl and plastic paint and prep stuff and redo the entire interior pieces black. Or a dark charcoal something that goes nicely with the seats. Going to be a lot of working though...

 

[ridiqls]

Got a question for anyone following this thread.. Can a bad battery cause a long crank/start? I ask because the truck had a really long crank when I bought it. It took about 5 full mississippis to start or more. But it always started up each time. The guy said it was just the car was old. When the truck was smogged the mech said it needs a tune up pretty soon so I plan on changing out the spark plugs, ignition wires, rotor, cap, oil change and some coolant top off.

The truck started up yesterday and it took a long crank to get it started. Maybe 7 seconds. Today it won't start. The truck has been sitting for the past 2 weeks and I started it up for about 10 seconds each day. Looking back on hindsight I should've done it longer but I was busy with the body lift I forgot about it. Tried to start it right now and it cranked for a few seconds and then stopped. Now when I turn the ignition, no sound. No cranking. So I'm guessing it is the battery. If I leave the key to "ON" position, the battery gauge reads around 9-10 but not sure how accurate that is in accessing how good the battery is.

If it's the battery it'll be an easy fix but just wondering if I replace the battery if the long crank could possibly be fixed also or is that possibly related to fuel delivery.

 

[1997chevydriver]

Could be a weak battery, weak starter, or bad connection

 

[gd1]

Sounds like a weak/dead battery or a loose cable on the battery is causing your truck not to start. As for the extended crank, it could be your fuel pump relay. If its shot, the oil pressure switch will activate the pump, but only after the engine builds oil pressure. Since it takes a bit of cranking to build pressure, it could explain the extended crank symptom you describe. With the key on, engine off, do you hear the fuel pump kick in right away?

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[ridiqls]

Sounds like a weak/dead battery or a loose cable on the battery is causing your truck not to start. As for the extended crank, it could be your fuel pump relay. If its shot, the oil pressure switch will activate the pump, but only after the engine builds oil pressure. Since it takes a bit of cranking to build pressure, it could explain the extended crank symptom you describe. With the key on, engine off, do you hear the fuel pump kick in right away?

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Yeah I took my voltmeter and checked the battery and it's 12.4v. Then I turned the ignition over once or twice and it dropped to 8-9v so the battery is pretty much shot. I just ordered one cause sears is having a sale on their Diehards (20% off).


How loud is the fuel pump normally on these trucks? The only time I've heard a fuel pump was in a 88 honda accord when you put the ignition to "ON" (but don't start) it makes a loud whirring noise. I don't hear anything when I put the key in and turn it to "ON". I didn't notice because my AC actuator thing is broken and makes a god awful thumping noise but I managed to get it to go away by sticking a little piece of plastic under the flap.

If I don't hear a loud whirring, does that mean the fuel pump is shot? Is there any other quick ways to test it... Or would running a cleaner through have a chance at resolving it?

If I need to replace the fuel pump..... oh god.. I JUST finished bolting down the bed of the truck after the body lift. And I mean TIGHT. I could've gotten to the tank had I known.

 

[1997chevydriver]

Normally the pump is definitely noticeable

Sent from somewhere in MN