12' sub in a single cab??

[takt]

What are the options for a single 12" sub in a single cab,any pics? I have one behind my passenger seat but but not too comfortable for the passenger. Thanks.

 

[whiplash473]

Not too many options but you're definitely going to want to go with a vertical mount box and a shallow depth sub. I'm not sure if that's what you've got but it'll cut the box/sub depth in half if you're running a standard right now.


Sent from my bored/stroked iPhone 6S

 

[michael hurd]

http://www.crutchfield.com/g_446450...7#&nvpair=AG_General_Features|FFShallow_Mount

 

[laidbackbigun]

I have a 15 in a 3cuft box between my buckets

 

[Cuauhtemoc]

Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer EnclosureView media item 31074

 

[laidbackbigun]

Sound Solutions Audio XCON in a 3 cuft~3 sealed box. Runs on a MTX Thunder Elite 1501 D. It doesn't kill you,..... yet. Gonna build a ported box with armrests and cup holders for this. I had it in a 4.2 cuft~3 ported box tuned to 31 hz in the back of a Mitsubishi Lancer and got 143.4 on the dash.

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[Blackwater]

I have one that works. First of all you have to understand acoustics, how sound travels through air and resonates inside the enclosure and the space outside the encloser (cab). With a 12 you want a large enclosure. One you would have to build the box where the top and bottom of the encloser is very close to the woofer. The other part of that is you will have to go long. The amount of volume inside the enclosure is important as well. Also keep in mind the placement of the amplifier.

In single cab trucks like mine the worst place to put it is under the seat. So when building the enclosure you also have to make note of the enclosure. Another, if you wanted ported or not. Ported if there is less room or go smaller woofer. I have managed to put a shallow 12 in that handles 1500 watts. I know that kind of power is much for such a small space in a single cab but loooking at the long term effects of the woofer and amp when driven to the max all the time wears on the equipment. I have my gain at half, as also my mains and tweets. This will also won't over heat the voice coil, over drive the coil and allow the woofer to last longer. You will buy another woofer eventually but not as often.

For example, can you run full sprint indefinitely? Neither can electronics. When pushed to its limits indefinitely creates heat as electrons pass through circuits. Each circuit has resistance like a tire on the road. Therefore you want more than enough power to do the job at half the power. This will allow you to keep your expensive system going for years. Min is now twelve years old. Only the woofer has failed due to the voice coil wear. Amp still hammering. I teach this in my electronic classes and when I am teaching radar maintenance. Back on the farm, you can get a non-ported enclosure in a single cab.

With that said. When you build a encloser, you want air tightness as much as possible. Partical board, with its sawdust and glue composite is best. One you have the tightness and you won't have added vibrations from layers of wood vibrating as in plywood. Build the enclosure to where the woofer is center of the seat and the rest of the enclosure is on the passenger side. Remember, remove the tray at the bottom so your encloser can sit level and lower so you can have full function of your seat. I'm a long legged guy with a manual tranny. I need room. Knees hitting the dash or steering column. Build the enclosure to fit with the seat all the way to the rear. Before mounting the woofer stuff the inside loosely with polyfil. Don't buy it from crutchfield. You can get it much cheaper in the arts and crafts at Walmart. Polyfil slows the air in the box and gives you a deeper bump.

Mount the amp on the back wall with rubber washers and don't over torque it. This befits the amp and prevents un-nessisary cab vibrations. I live on rough roads and the rubber won't vibrate the circuit board. This prevents caponates from coming loose. mounting on the back wall helps dissipate the heat from the amp due to more volume of space behind the seat versus under the seat and provides easy access for troubleshooting. a trunk of a car is a great place for a amp due to space to dissipate heat. I have had no amps go thermal in trunks of cars except when they are pushed to hard with higher ohms. That's another story.

Lastly, if you have trim vibrations like I did, remove them and add dynamat or foam. I use the peel and stick kind where the plastic peices mate. That is an annoying sound.

I'm currently on assignment in the Middle East so if you have any questions, ask them and I will get back as soon as possible. They needed someone who knows what there doing.

Note: a good powerful 10" or two 8" will do well or better than one twelve. I have a twelve cause I wasn't too informed when I bought it. I was going through electronics school then and radar engineering training.

 

[laidbackbigun]

This all depends on what your trying to do. Blackwater you sound like a man who knows electronics and i like what you said. There are 2 different trains of thought on car audio. Big Loud and forceful, and loud and clean. Some guys want to feel the bass more than hear it where others want to hear it and it be clear.

If your going to go for roof flexing bass, you will not get it from a truck box no matter what you do. Ported or not. Yes a ported box will allow the sub to travel more in its excursion with less resistance giving you a lower reach, but typical ported truck boxes are in the 40 hz range. Good for general music listening and nothing real low like Night Bass from Bass Mechanik. Sealed boxes give punch tight bass and can be made smaller BUT always get or build something that is in the manufactorer of the subwoofers specified range of internal air volume. If you have a sealed box or even a ported box that is too small you can use polyfill. Its 1 lb of polyfil for every 1cuft of space. its cheap and works decently. not a miracle cure but decent.

Sealed box require the sub to be pushed harder not much but a little.

My suggesiton is figure out what you want to do and make a decision on changing things up by spending time and money or settle for whatever you can afford price and time wise. If you want something that quakes and wakes people up 2 blocks away then a behind the seat box will not cut it.

 

[Blackwater]

True. Then he would need to get a extended cab and remove the rear seat to get that kind of violent sound. Then I would recommend hearing protection. Bet they are louder then the generators and cooling vanaxle fans of the systems I work on. But if he just wants a little thump to sound good then the system I have would be suffice. I would still recommend not maxing out the system on a daily basses. Lol. I made a pun. He has to know what the goal is and know what the conditions are. If his goal is out of the reach of the conditions capability he would either get another truck to accommodate or make the system the most efficient for the conditions. I have more woofer and amp than the conditions but tuned it for maximum efficiency for the system to perform for years. I rather spend more money now and it last for years then go cheap and have to replace later.

We need to know his goals before we can give accurate advice.

Remember. Even at 100 decibels you will have hearing loss. Ask my wife. Sometimes the hearing loss I have acquired is a blessing with the misses. Except when you are trying to talk to her and there are other sounds that cover her up and can't separate the different sounds even when concentrating hard. Just a thought.

 

[Blackwater]

Reading the original post, he has what he wants but wants more comfort. If you can wait till I get back to the good old USA then I can show you pictures. Night.