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are there any thorough write ups on how to swap the outers? that sounds like its worth looking intoUse your D44 with 8 lug 3/4 ton outers. No reason to go one ton just to run a free rear axle.
I would advise against a 12-bolt, they really are no stronger than your current 10-bolt. Your truck being a 93 you can easily abandon the TBI system and transmission if need be, but honestly they are very simple OBD 1 trucks.
Anyway, here is my build thread when I performed my SAS. I already had a 14SF axle, used a passenger drop D44 and t-case from a 90 suburban. Mine being an 88 my transmission wasn't computer controlled. Since then I've swapped to 8-lug, NV4500 and a 454.
http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?945-Tech-88GMCtruck-s-Budget-Solid-Axle-Swap-Build
A FF 14 bolt rear is a great axle. The only drawbacks for an off road rig is that the center section hangs quite low compared to it's contemporaries.
You can get kits that allow you to cut it down and weld a plate in for more clearance, but that's a bit of over kill if you're just building an "all around" type of rig.
The big bonus of a 10.5 rear (besides the supported input pinion) is the axles shafts. Since they're "floating", if one snaps you don't loose the wheel.
I have a 10.5 ff in my k2500 and its a great axle for my use, which is towing.
They make great off road axles as is, even better with some shaving.
Your call.
But I'd use it for sure.
Even more so over a 12 bolt.
You can still put whatever axle you want under the front. 1/2 ton to one ton. Doesn't matter as long as you match the gearing. It just means the front will likely pop in hard use before the rear and you'll get the occasional tard commenting on not having a 3/4-1ton front axle to go with the rear....
i wouldnt use a 400 for road use though, offroading sure but youd be fine with an upgraded 700r4 and tbi or carbd 350.
i though that a 700r4 was semi-controlled by the computer? if so is there any tricks to by pass it and still have it run and shift well?