1/2 ton truck with 3/4 suspension

[Mschaffer92]

I was thinking about putting in 3/4 ton suspension with a 241 tcase in my half ton. And also adding a lift but the wuestion i have for you guys is, would it just be cheaper to put in a 241 tcase and a sas? Cuz i know i would need front diff and rear axle from the 3/4 ton and the tcase. Im just not sure which way is best.. Also doesnt help that i have autotrac as well.. Got about 2500 to spend. Any opinions are greatly appreciated

 

[Swims350]

sas, from what I heard it's too much work for not much payoff to have the 3/4 ton front. Now the rear yes upgrade it to a 14 bolt, and then do sas.

I was wondering why you kept saying a 241 tcase because my 88 already has it but then you said autotrac.

I would think unless you wheel hard or want some huge offset wheels or something maybe just lift the ifs 1/2 ton and be done with it.

 

[Mschaffer92]

I would still want the 241 and the front driveshaft but im worried about the vss.. And if any other problems i would have going from autotrac to stick. And the reason i wanted 3/4 ton is to beef up my suspension some.

 

[thohill]

3/4 ton leaf springs are great. My front is still 1/2 ton though. Putting in a 14 bolt rear as we speak.

 

[Mschaffer92]

What about the frontend though and is ur 14 bolt a six lug or 8

 

[Swims350]

leafs are easy and so is the 14 bolt but doing the front I heard was not worth the trouble for the small gain if any by going to a 3/4 ton front over the 1/2

 

[Darkrider]

What you need to do is see if you can find a Diesel K1500 with a blown engine. More often then not they will have the F44 chassis/suspension option. Which brings them up to the same level as a 7200 GVW K2500 suspension wise. They will also have the 14 bolt Semi Floating 6 lug rear axle. But have the same front diff as you currently have. So to get what you are wanting you would need the Torsion bars, rear springs, and rear 14 B SF rear diff. As long as the donor truck is simular year to your truck and if it has the stick transfer case it will be a 241 and the VSS will just bolt into the same spot as it did or in a similar area as your autotrack case. Though personally i wouldnt bother making the change to a stick case unless you are lifting the thing like 4+ inches and doing some serious off roading. You could do a T bar crank and gain about an inch or inch and a half safely and not have to change the front drive shaft. Basically if you leave the autotrac case in it and just change the rear diff and springs. the truck will perform similar to how it does now but have the added advantage of the HD suspension and stronger rear diff. Though you will need to regear the rear diff to match the front..unless you change out the front diff at the same time which would be a direct swap for your original.

 

[thohill]

six lug 14 bolt. Going 8 lug in back is easy, but upgrading the front involves cutting and welding on the frame. not worth it.

 

[outalne94z71]

didnt we just have this talk on pavementsucks?

 

[bizzo15]

Here's a question along these lines. The 10 bolt in my truck is pretty whooped and I want to replace it before it completely ***** out. I have access to a 2500LD with the 6 lug 14bolt rear. It's 3.73 and my truck is 3.42. I'd rather have 3.73 so my question is this, is the front diff on a 2500LD the same as the front diff on a 1500? I know if it was 8 lug it would be different but because it's a LD and 6 lug is this a direct bolt in?