We found CASES of dry rotted faceplates, new in the /disintegrated/ wrappers when we cleaned it out.Wow, no face plates!
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We found CASES of dry rotted faceplates, new in the /disintegrated/ wrappers when we cleaned it out.Wow, no face plates!
Yeah, but I have wood posts in the way on the walls, so it was easier for me to do it this way rather than stick out over each post. It also made it easy to drop down between the doors.Running the power up to the rafters then down to the boxes is something that I hadn’t really considered. Doesn’t that method use more wire?
Mine has open metal framing, so I have somewhat the same issue that you do.Yeah, but I have wood posts in the way on the walls, so it was easier for me to do it this way rather than stick out over each post. It also made it easy to drop down between the doors.
I almost forgot, I also have a circuit for the ventilation fan. There's a formula somewhere for what size fan you need to cycle all the air in so many minutes. The fan I got is big enough to cycle the air in my 1200 sq/ft shop in under 3 minutes, which is a nice amount of overkill. You can also get a thermostat or a humidistat to put in parallel with the switch. My wife's shop fan is set to turn on if the humidity gets above 50%.
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May consider if later you decide to insulate and do interior walls.Mine has open metal framing, so I have somewhat the same issue that you do.
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Even though it uses more wire, I can see how running wires along the second framing member above the floor, dropping down to the outlets along the lower wall, and running up to the overhead light outlets, would simplify the installation.
I'm also wondering if it would be better to mount the boxes to the face of the frame members, and running the conduit on top of the framing, rather than mounting the boxes flush with the framing. The problem with that approach is that both the boxes and the conduit would project into the space by a couple of inches. However, maybe that's not a big deal, since the outlets will only be every 10'. The 220V outlets could be mounted below those.
Of course, if I decide to go with a surface mount, I'll have to buy different boxes, as the ones I have aren't really made for surface mounting. I don't know if Lowe's will take them back after all this time, but it's worth asking. Maybe they'll give me a store credit, which would be fine.
That’s a thought. I had pretty much much decided to leave the framing exposed. The insulation is installed, although I suppose it could be added to.May consider if later you decide to insulate and do interior walls.
I seem to remember your mentioning this, and it sounds like a good idea. Oscillating fans would be the cheapest and simplest, but I’ll look into options for mounting on the ceiling that I could install when I’m doing the wiring for the area lights.I think I suggested something about it before, if so, I apologize for the redundancy, but set up for some permanently running fans that run all year, especially in winter for mice. Either ceiling or scattered oscillating ones. Moving air will keep bugs, birds, mice and snakes from making homes in there.
Not weird at all. I much prefer cutoff type light fixtures, for keeping the light where it’s needed, and not shining up and out.Also, a separate nighttime lighting circuit with only yellow bulbs on it (I use little 5w led ones) that come on at dusk is awfully nice. I've got them over every door and on all exterior walls that don't have a door. They draw in minimal bugs, and put out a nice warm glow. I like hooded fixtures as I hate seeing actual bulbs or light sources, but... I'm weird.
Thank you!Good luck with it!
Thanks! Progress has slowed lately, but I expect it will pick up again soon.It's great to see your progress! Haven't been on here in a while