Just 3D print the wood bits. https://all3dp.com/2/wood-filament-for-a-3d-printer-explained-compared/I'm running low on wood welding wire, too.
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Just 3D print the wood bits. https://all3dp.com/2/wood-filament-for-a-3d-printer-explained-compared/I'm running low on wood welding wire, too.
As far as shortening that driveshaft, I'm pretty sure it's all aluminum, with a wrap of some composite sort of material - perhaps for strength, also possibly for sound deadening? I haven't personally experienced it, but I've read of others where the wrap has failed and the driveshaft underneath is fine. Others have had the wrap fail because the driveshaft corroded and the swelling cracked the wrap.
I forget they made those composite driveshafts. When I did 80 swap on my 99 1500 NBS I wasn't sure if I was going to need to shorten the steel D.S. I figured I would cut it and welded it myself with my "Mex-redneck"-code-approved welding skills, just enough to hold up until I got it to a driveshaft shop. But in the end I had enough adjustment on the center carrier mount (it has some slots on the holes) to make up for the small difference, so no need for cutting.
I don't know if the composite D.S. was only a GMT-400 thing. I've never seen a composite D.S. on the GMT-800 platform now that I think about it. Only steel and the larger O.D. aluminum.
So yeah, the cutting and welding a composite D.S. was a dumb comment, LOL...
Does "GM" make RWD axles any more? I thought that was the whole point of AAM--GM sold-off their axle/gearmaking the same way they sold off AC-Delco.Our 400s got Dana, GM, and AAM drive shafts. The composites, I believe were a Dana product. The 800s, I believe, got almost (if not all) exclusively AAM shafts....maybe van's got some Dana shafts since they got some Dana axles?
Does "GM" make RWD axles any more? I thought that was the whole point of AAM--GM sold-off their axle/gearmaking the same way they sold off AC-Delco.
The 8.5", the 9.5", and the 10.5" ring-gear axles are AAM products. I think there's an 11.5 axle used on the C3500HD that's a Dana product. But I don't think there's a "GM" axle in the bunch.
This composite shaft was on a vehicle with a 9.5 AAM axle--but how/why GM selects which driveshaft construction goes with which powertrain is way beyond my pay-grade.
Did they sell "Remy"? I'm thinking it was once organized as "Delco-Remy" and now Remy is either stand-alone or out-of-business.GM didn't sell AC Delco, they sold Delphi. GM has bought/sold/folded-into so many brands/companies it's a bit hard to keep straight.
Old enough to have RWAL. GM went to 4WAL (EBC4) in '92.Any recollection what year that truck was, where you found the composite shaft?
I was amazed to see a lightweight driveshaft under a Diesel.I don't know how they determine it either. I suppose it's a balance between weight of the finished shaft, length and torque requirements.
Given a 1-piece rear driveshaft, I think the ratio of rear U-joints to front U-joints is about 3:1. It's almost always the rear U-joint that's failed. Not so often the front one goes.It's my opinion that many aluminum AAM shafts are garbage. I'm very happy with my steel shaft. I was just looking at it the other day.... The front u-joint is still fine after almost 300K miles. The rear has a little slop. It's been replaced once before.
Did they sell "Remy"? I'm thinking it was once organized as "Delco-Remy" and now Remy is either stand-alone or out-of-business.
Old enough to have RWAL. GM went to 4WAL (EBC4) in '92.
New enough to have the aluminum-body RWAL. My friend's '89 has the cast-iron RWAL.
So 90--91, I guess.
I was amazed to see a lightweight driveshaft under a Diesel.
My '97 is an extended-cab, short-box, but with the 10.5" axle. I wonder if this shaft will fit that truck; and whether it's an upgrade or a downgrade. I don't remember what sort of driveshaft is on that truck.
Given a 1-piece rear driveshaft, I think the ratio of rear U-joints to front U-joints is about 3:1. It's almost always the rear U-joint that's failed. Not so often the front one goes.
No road-splash on the front U-joint, and less movement of the shaft up 'n' down. If there's other factors, I can't think of 'em.
I'll have to measure them when/if it quits raining.What u-joints are in the "new" shaft? My 1-ton (with 10.5 14BFF) RCLB uses 1355s which are the AAM/GM equivalent to the Dana Spicer 1350.
Extra parts on the shelf is a good thing.Yes, I've read that the rears take more abuse..... similar to outer tie-rods compared to inners, I guess. I've actually got another one that I bought years ago, when I replaced it the first time. It was purchased for the front, but then I found I didn't need it. Then I've got a couple of Rockauto clearance specials too.