ABS and ignition problems

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Haven't had a chance to pull them yet, but I realized last night they're almost certainly the larger pistons. When I swapped in the D369 pads, I had to bend the springs on the back of the pads outwards to keep them in the piston while I was assembling everything. As they came out of the box, they just flopped back out with no pressure against the sides of the piston at all.

Valid observation.

I also realized that if these springs didn't seat quite all the way, maybe the pad itself could be pushing the piston back? I'll check that once I get back in there.

Keep us posted, everyone learns from it

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

At this point I'm tempted to go back to a QTU master and the smaller piston original calipers, if it'll make this thing roadworthy again.

If my opinion is of any value, I would suggest you not turn back to the QTU master / LD brakes. IMHO their braking response is too dependent on:

- the assumption that the caliper supplier actually (re)built the calipers so that the LD function is properly enabled,

- the optimal interplay between the MC and caliper cylinders, e.g.,

-- the volume QTU fluid required by the caliper to bring the pads into play on the rotor,

-- the volume of QTU fluid delivered by MC's QTU piston, and

-- the MC's management of excess QTU fluid via the check valve and compensation port

- See https://www.gmt400.com/threads/gm-l...ssion-on-jalopyjournal-com.60055/post-1365261 and the dialog throughout that thread


I ****ed with that QTU/LD brake setup on my Sub for much too long -- literally years, trying to figure out why it worked so poorly -- and now that it's gone I would never turn back.

My brakes work great w/ 3" diameter calipers w/ Raybestos 370 pads, new rotors and the NBS MC w/ stock vacuum booster (I recommend the JB7 MC now, but I used the NBS MC then).

I also have SS brake hoses all-around and 11" drums w/ oversized 1.1875" diameter cylinders, and those hoses and cylinders did make a remarkable contribution. I put them on last, so the change was evident.

$0.02

 

[Caman96]

I had a similar multi-purpose tool in my first car. It doubled as a hood prop and a button presser. The trunk wouldn't open unless you were pulling up on the lid while you hit the release button, and the button was on the driver's side door panel. With one hand pulling up on the trunk lid and the other jamming the button with the stick I could just barely get it.

Let’s not forget Gen. Chuck Yeager and his infamous broom handle when he was the first to break the speed of sound in the X-1.

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