Wiring changes to suit ARTEB taillights

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

PM18S4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
67
Reaction score
120
Location
United States
If you do not EVER intend to run a trailer, the wiring is fairly simple for ARTEB taillights.

These instructions are for 1999 Carryovers/Suburbans/Tahoes/etc, but probably applicable to earlier models models with a few changes.
‣ Clip wires going into A1 and E2 from the I/P harness going to the the multifunction switch (C266).
‣ Extend and run the STOP wire taped to the harness coming from C104(E).
‣ Split the Stop wire near the rear (Best location is near C409 connector) and run wires to left and right tail light plug.
‣ Get 2X Metri-Pack 280 5 Way Female Pigtails and cut and splice the wire from the old connector to the new as follows:
‣ Left (Driver) Connector
‣ Old (A) to New (E) [GND]
‣ Old (B) to New (A) [STP/TRN (now just TRN)]
‣ Old (C) to New (D) [B/U]
‣ Old (E) to New (B) [PRK]
‣ Stop from C104(E) to New (C) [STP]
‣ Right (Passenger) Connector (Yes L and R ARTEB Taillight boards connectors are mirrored)
‣ Old (A) to New (A) [GND]
‣ Old (B) to New (E) [STP/TRN (now just TRN)]
‣ Old (C) to New (B) [B/U]
‣ Old (E) to New (D) [PRK]
‣ Stop from C104(E) to New (C) [STP]
You must be registered for see images attach

Only issues with this other than the aforementioned inability to run a trailer (trailer stop/turn connections would only have turn signals), is the lower gauge wire running to the rear for the stop lamps.
The listed size of the C104(E) conductor is 0.8 mm² (18 AWG).

For GMT400's, ampacity for conductors can be as much guesswork as a science.
Best guess from this site that takes gauge, temp rating and ambient temp into account, is 8 Amps.
Given the stop lamp, (a 3156 Bulb, or just the outer terminals of a 3057 bulb) is 27 to 29 W when 12V applied ( resistance when powered R = V²/P = 12.8²/27 = 6Ω).
That should be fine for just two bulbs in parallel (1/R₁+1/R₂ = 1/Rₑ | 1/6Ω+1/6Ω = 1/3Ω | Rₑ = 3Ω | 12.8V / 3Ω = 4.27A).
BUT I DO NOT GAURENTEE THIS AND AM NOT ACCOUNTABLE IF THINGS GO ASS-OVER-TEAKETTLE.

Now if you plan to run a trailer, things get complicated.
You would still need to clip and cap A1 and E2 in the I/P Harness, but then need to recombine the stop and turn signals somewhere else downstream for the trailer.
This can be done with some relay logic and 3X changeover relays (I would recommend finding one with diodes and really fast response times).
You must be registered for see images attach


This could be done with individually sealed relays and inline fuses but I would recommend a box for it.

There are a few relay boxes that I think fit the bill for this.
The GEP 48 with 3X 280 Micro Relays. (This has the added benifit of being able to isolate the stop relay from the turn relays with 15A fuses as well.
You must be registered for see images attach


The Littlefuse 60 with 3x 280 Metri-Pack relays.
You must be registered for see images attach


The TE 27P with 3X BOSCH Mini Relays (Same Layout as the LF 60)
You must be registered for see images attach


I would recommend going with 14 or 12 AWG (2 or 3 mm²) conductors for the relay box's 12V input, and Trailer's STP/LT and STP/RT outputs.
16 or 18 AWG (1.0 or 0.8 mm²) conductors for STP, and LT, RT inputs and GND.
MIL-W-16878/4 PTFE insulated wire would be best as it is rated for 200°C (392°F) before breakdown and PTFE is very durable and chemically resistant.
However it is costly, so here is a breakdown of other cable types that would work:
‣ GPT: General PVC insulation, 85°C (185°F)
‣ GXL: General XLPE Insulation, 125°C (257°F)
‣ SXL: Thick Walled XLPE Insulation, 125°C (257°F)

Where the relay box resides and how the conductors are run are additional headaches.

It could reside in the engine compartment and tap into the STOP and turn signals at the C104 (a 5-Way Metri-Pack 280) connector (C104(C) is Rear Left, C104(D) is Rear Right Turn).
This would require running a new wiring harness to rear for the taillight STP and trailer STP/LT and STP/RT conductors and a new taillight harness.

Alternatively, it could reside attached to the frame at the rear, and plug into the C409 (a 4-Way Weatherpack) connector, then go to a new taillight harness.
This would still require running the C104(E) STP conductor back, and you would have to tap into the 12V line from the taped wiring loom.
 
Last edited:

AK49BWL

GMT400 Forever!
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
1,886
Reaction score
2,950
Location
Longview, TX
Those GEP boxes are fantastic and completely watertight when used with the proper terminals and plugs. They are fully customizable to your desires. I redid all the wiring in my truck and run three of those GEP boxes. Mine are 72 and 96 position tho, replaced both factory fuse blocks on my 97.
 

PM18S4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
67
Reaction score
120
Location
United States
Those GEP boxes are fantastic and completely watertight when used with the proper terminals and plugs. They are fully customizable to your desires. I redid all the wiring in my truck and run three of those GEP boxes. Mine are 72 and 96 position tho, replaced both factory fuse blocks on my 97.
I have all the LB-60, GEP-48, and TE-27P on order to compare and contrast.
The biggest downside to the GEP and Littlefuse boxes is the inability to run standard bosch relays; instead requiring the 280 series relays.
However, the ease of use and modularity may be much better than the TI offering.

I was actually thinking of using the large GEP96 relay box in the engine bay like so:
You must be registered for see images attach

‣ 7x 30A SPST relays with diodes (Configurator doesn't have this in it's options, just the 20A, no diode)
‣ Top 4 relays for the 4-High mod with toggle relay
‣ Bottom 3 relays for Fog Lights, DRL's, and AUX lights
You must be registered for see images attach

‣ 3x 35A NO (20A NC) SPDT relays with diodes for the ARTEB Tail-lights
‣ 2A fuses for All the relay inputs to protect upstream components.
‣ Fuses for power in and signal out, but resettable circuit breakers once things work.
 

PM18S4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
67
Reaction score
120
Location
United States
Follow-up for those making new harnesses and connectors:
Connector end views can be found in the full service manuals.
Vol 4, Pg 8-122 for lighting connector ends
Vol 4, Pg. 8-457 for most other connections
Critical ones for rear lamps are C103, and C104, the tail-lights (NA OEM), and C409
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

As far as I can tell no printed Service Manual had C409. However ACDelco TDS has it for the 2001 carryover C1500.
You must be registered for see images attach

C407 (The lamps illuminating the rear license plate) isn't shown anywhere as far as I can find.
But I looked on mine and confirmed it with the illustrated part breakdown and it's a weird variant of Metri-Pack 280(GM 13586114, ACD PT2830).
Wiring for it is as follows:
‣ A, BRN, PRK
‣ B, BLK, GND
 

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,439
Reaction score
3,751
Location
Rural Illinois
@PM18S4, thanks for documenting these details!

I wonder if there might be enough buyers to warrant a custom harness to make the Arteb taillight conversion more "plug and play", sorta like the "4-high" harness that's sold by another GMT400 member.

On that topic, I was exchanging an email with a party in Europe recently and they wrote:

"Here in Europe rules are getting more and more strict. There are tons of gmt-400 with non-approved lights."

I'm expect we're going to see more demand for taillights and headlights from Europe in the near future.

Carlos just shipped a pair of taillights and headlights to Germany last Friday, and I've gotten recent requests for information from both Poland and Italy for multiple pairs.
 
Last edited:

1998_K1500_Sub

Nitro Junkie
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2019
Messages
2,439
Reaction score
3,751
Location
Rural Illinois
Follow-up for those making new harnesses and connectors:
Connector end views can be found in the full service manuals.

For the interested reader:

@PM18S4 provided illustrations and details for a number of connectors in his previous post. For example, C103, which is used for the tail lamps.

The locations and illustrations of the all the connectors in a GMT400 are provided in the service manuals. @PM18S4 provided relevant illustrations (above) for the tail lamps.

For example, in the 1998 FSM, there are:

- pages which list all of the connectors by number, and provide a reference to other pages which provide...

-- the location of the connector on the vehicle and

-- an illustration of the connector.

I've attached some of these pages from the 1998 FSM, for example.

The FSM from every year has similar information.
 

Attachments

  • Connector listing - 1998 FSM.pdf
    1.9 MB · Views: 1
  • Connector locator - 1998 FSM.pdf
    1.9 MB · Views: 2
  • Connector illustrations - 1998 FSM.pdf
    1.7 MB · Views: 1
Last edited:

Cpufreak101

Newbie
Joined
Sep 3, 2018
Messages
39
Reaction score
81
Location
Pittsburgh PA
oh wow @PM18S4 that is a *lot* of info, guessing that's more applicable on the '95 and newer models? haven't looked into 'em much, but regardless the more info the better! (edit: I'm silly, seems this is the same method I found but laid out *much* more clearly. guess it applies to all years then? I was never able to confirm for '95+)

and regarding the trailer towing, it's a fairly trivial thing to fix. if you use a European/overseas standard connector you'd be needing to wire it all new regardless, and with the arteb mod done, you're just able to tie it into the now-independent tail lights. if you are in the US, Hopkins sells a converter box that's readily available at just about any auto parts store for vehicles with independent brake/turn lights to provide a combined signal, though I will note I've had one of these melt down on me before, so might be worth pursuing a different brand.

EDIT: just noticed you actually provided schematics to DIY one, If I have another hopkins melt down on me I might actually attempt that, seems very neat!

and @1998_K1500_Sub regarding Europe, from what I heard, some countries (most notably Germany) stated that they were no longer going to just accept US standards for imported vehicles and have seemingly started limited enforcement of it (IE, needs to meet EU lighting and emission regulations), so for someone wishing to keep as stock a look as possible, I can see how demand can be ramping up over there now. don't be surprised if requests for headlights come in as well as german TUV even checks the beam pattern for compliance.
 
Last edited:
Top