Hello, I’ve been having this stalling problem with my 94 GMC Sierra. It will idle good on park, but once I drive or even sometimes reverse it’ll want to die on me. If I drive it’ll take off and drive normally, but once I stop it’ll start to die on me. Does anyone know what it might be?
Truck stumbles and stalls out.
- Thread starter Rhino0826
- Start date
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Drunkcanuk
I'm Awesome
You are going to be told to test fuel pressure, asked when the last time filter was changed, pump changed.
I had almost the same symptoms in my 91. Shot the parts cannon at it, until I finally bit the bullet to drop the tank to change the pump. It ended up being the little hose that connects the pump to the pickup. Switched it out for the included line, that's rated for ethanol gas and no problem since.
I had almost the same symptoms in my 91. Shot the parts cannon at it, until I finally bit the bullet to drop the tank to change the pump. It ended up being the little hose that connects the pump to the pickup. Switched it out for the included line, that's rated for ethanol gas and no problem since.
It’s been about a year since I’ve replaced my fuel pump and filter, but I haven’t tested my fuel pressure. I did recently replace my fuel pressure regulator and injectors.
TBI stalling, distributor pics
hello all, posting from phone, so don't mind the errors. Been all over this site and others and want to get a second opinion on the condition of this distributor. It's in a 93 c2500 5.7, stalls out randomly at low speed. Fixed multiple problems from it sitting for 3 years including TBI kit, fuel...
www.gmt400.com
OBD1 can set codes without the check engine light coming on, have you checked for any codes?
how old is the 02 sensor?
Thanks. Saved me some typing.
Ok guys I might’ve figured it out but I need y’all’s feedback to make sure. I was sitting in my truck earlier and was letting it idle. It was idling rough like it’s been but I never thought to check my voltage. It was reading below 10 and going into the orange. My battery and alternator are brand new. Do y’all think I might need to clean my grounds?
Drunkcanuk
I'm Awesome
That's a good place to start and easy enough to do. I'd the ECM does not see the right voltage it will get wonky.
And now days, just because something is new, doesn't mean it's good. Way too much crap coming across in big boats.
And now days, just because something is new, doesn't mean it's good. Way too much crap coming across in big boats.
"I" would check the voltage with the engine running, somewhere other than the dash gauge.
Start at the alternator output stud, (with the ground probe on the alternator case or a mounting-bolt for the alternator) then go to the battery, with the ground on the battery negative terminal. Voltage should be similar in both places. Then go to the fusebox inside the vehicle, checking voltage at each fuse, with the negative probe on some under-dash steel. I typically use the park brake pedal bracket. Again, voltage should be similar to what you have at the alternator, perhaps down by no more than one volt.
REALLY common for the dash voltmeter to show low voltage due to either poor power connections, or poor ground connections, or both--even if system voltage is OK.
Then verify your fuel pressure, and connect a scan tool so you can verify ALL the sensors and computer outputs.
How old are the usual "tune-up" parts--cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV system checked, initial spark timing plus electronic advance, etc?
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