Heck, no.
Two common failure modes:
1. Plastic/Bakelite case gets cracked or carbon-tracked, voltage bleeds off via the failure in the case. Can bleed off only under high-voltage condition, or when there's moisture in the crack/track. You might see the defect leading from the tall coil wire terminal to either of the smaller terminals--coil + or coil - wires. The carbon track/crack should be visible, sometimes you'll even see sparks travel along the defect.
2. Coil internal winding wires are insulated. Insulation on wires breaks down UNDER HIGH VOLTAGE. When the insulation breaks down, the wires short-circuit reducing the resistance of the windings, leading to poor spark and excess current draw from module. This is INSIDE the coil, nothing visible.
Either failure can run just fine sometimes, and run poorly--or stall--other times. Depends on how totally the insulation fails. And you might not detect the insulation failure using an ohmmeter, because the ohmmeter uses such a tiny voltage for resistance testing, but in operation the coil sees ten-to-thirty thousand volts, sometimes more. (Which is why an ohmmeter can tell you that a coil is defective, but it can't tell you that it's good. The coil has to be put under load with a spark-tester to verify. And even that should be done with a coil that's been heated to normal operating temperature.)
