Stalling issue

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Pro439

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Not that this could be an issue but I have seen the wires come loose inside the connection. I’ve seen the moulded connections not making a good connection inside the moulded part. I’ve cut the moulded plastic off and found the wires loose. I generally use studs in the side post batteries with nuts as screwing the bolts in/out eventually will strip the threads. Check the grounds not just the 1 from the battery but the 1 from the engine to the frame, firewall to the frame and to the fender by the battery. The engine harness as well. All these trucks are old and the wiring gets fatigued from age and heat and cold. If the throttle body has never been cleaned where the IAC seats can get carboned up and prevent it from seating correctly. Not that any of this your problem but stuff I’ve came across. Please post what you find the problem as it very well could help someone else having the same issue. Electronics are get when they work but when they don’t oh boy and now you have to add in cheaply made parts and covid parts on top of it all
 

df2x4

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Top post Optima battery, LOL.

I know this sounds wild, but I've had an Optima yellow top break a terminal internally and cause an intermittent no start condition. Would test fine until you jiggled the positive cable. Granted it was a 34/78 and I was using the side terminals, but after two yellow tops died on me in less than a year I'm not very trusting of Optima.
 

BrockGrimes

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So I'm having trouble finding a shop in my area to look at it. Literally had one guy say they only work on 90 and up....I was like it's the same thing as an 88. :oops:

So this looks like the dist. in my truck, tried looking it up but don't see any part# on it without yanking from the motor. Looks like the generic ones found on Amazon and a few other places.
Had the stock looking external coil, which I already replaced with a MSD coil. Wondering if this POS is the cause of my stalling and hard starts after it's warmed up? Still weird that it'll idle fine once started but sometimes seems like it wants to idle to low and stall while idling in park.
Who makes a quality dist. these days if I need to swap it?

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BrockGrimes

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Finally got around to popping the top off the dist.
Thoughts?


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Schurkey

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Change cap 'n' rotor, verify that the magnet on that distributor shaft isn't cracked.

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Clean all the rust off the distributor baseplate, so the vents can breathe. The rust on the pickup coil area could be cleaned IF the magnet isn't cracked. If the magnet is cracked, the mainshaft is done. Depending on the availability of a replacement mainshaft, you may need a complete replacement distributor. Good luck with that, I don't know of any that aren't Communist Crap. I'd be looking for a "good used" Genuine GM distributor from a Treasure Yard.
 

BrockGrimes

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Right I see the crack under that rivet, in the pic.
I've got a cap, rotor, and module on order.
I tried to pull the old rotor off but it wouldn't budge, guessing it has the sacrificial washer that breaks when you try to pull the rotor off.
Any tips on getting it off?
 

Schurkey

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I've got a cap, rotor, and module on order.
Why are you replacing the module?

I tried to pull the old rotor off but it wouldn't budge, guessing it has the sacrificial washer that breaks when you try to pull the rotor off.
Any tips on getting it off?
Pull harder. They get seized in place--I think the shaft rust digs into the plastic and holds it in place. I've had some that had to be broken to come off the shaft.
 

Jeepwalker

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I was going to say check inside the distributor too!!

I had the same thing happen. The 'star' on my truck literally disintegrated! A bugger to finally figure out. Parts or repl dist are not hard to find. Buy quality parts though. Runs like a champ ever since.

Good luck
 
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