AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
Here is the overload pack cut loose. Definitely helped the ride since they were cranked so tight.
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Skee's 97 K1500 Stepside build thread
- Thread starter AirmanSkee
- Start date
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AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
How does she look Trac Bar-less!?
Also scored these shocks off a buddy for free, nothing special but definitely better than the ones on my truck now. Going to give me a lot more rear travel as well.
And just in time, Adam (Solid94) sent me these red shock boots.
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Also scored these shocks off a buddy for free, nothing special but definitely better than the ones on my truck now. Going to give me a lot more rear travel as well.
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And just in time, Adam (Solid94) sent me these red shock boots.
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FastOrange
OBSless
I love it without the bars man! very clean.
AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
"Clean" is definitely not the word I would describe my truck as right now! Haha but thanks!
FastOrange
OBSless
I know exactly what you mean, impossible to clean it clean in winter! especially with tires that stick out!
AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
As mentioned in another thread, I have been having coolant issues over the past few days. Found a bad leak and tackled the task of fixing it and just replacing most of the drive pulleys.
This is looking down from the passenger side of the fan. Notice the coolant being puked out (Turns out the water pump went bad, fluid was pouring out of the lower weep hole, and slinging off the front drive pulley/belt.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a29mIMVRF5w
So after a constant battle of refilling coolant/water over the past few days and trying to diagnose the exact problem, I just bought all new coolant, new water pump, thermostat, lower radiator hose, new idler and tensioner pulleys, alt pulley, and belt.
(This picture was on my way to the shop to fix it. Only good place to work on it is friends houses 50 miles away or so. This isn't steam, its where the coolant was being blown over the oil pan and slung onto the exhaust. Smelled lovely and left a nice trail of smoke behind me for a bit haha) Ran fine, didnt over heat as I had plenty of water/coolant in the resevoir.
New thermostat (195* stock replacement.)
The thermostat housing was nice and gunked up. Cleaned it all up, and replaced all the removed pinch clamps with screw hose clamps.
This is how we were working on it. Roughly 0* outside, truck wouldn't fit in this garage, and the blast heater gave out ~10 minutes into the project. Started blowing pure diesel and eyes and lungs started burning. Lovely.
All the old stuff
OOOOOOO shiny!!!
Took a bit to get the coolant and system to purge itself, truck kept heating up and couldn't get the air out of the system. Finally after it hit the "Check Gauges" I shut if off and went in to warm up. It gave a huge belch and pushed a bunch of fluid and air out, and finally drained it all in and opened up. Cooled back down nicely, and is running like a champ.
Unfortunately, with the new pulleys (since I went with the stock OEM replacements instead of the aftermarket company) I lost the "charged" whine you guy's have heard my truck have. All exhaust leak and crappy glasspacks now!
This is looking down from the passenger side of the fan. Notice the coolant being puked out (Turns out the water pump went bad, fluid was pouring out of the lower weep hole, and slinging off the front drive pulley/belt.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a29mIMVRF5w
So after a constant battle of refilling coolant/water over the past few days and trying to diagnose the exact problem, I just bought all new coolant, new water pump, thermostat, lower radiator hose, new idler and tensioner pulleys, alt pulley, and belt.
(This picture was on my way to the shop to fix it. Only good place to work on it is friends houses 50 miles away or so. This isn't steam, its where the coolant was being blown over the oil pan and slung onto the exhaust. Smelled lovely and left a nice trail of smoke behind me for a bit haha) Ran fine, didnt over heat as I had plenty of water/coolant in the resevoir.
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New thermostat (195* stock replacement.)
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The thermostat housing was nice and gunked up. Cleaned it all up, and replaced all the removed pinch clamps with screw hose clamps.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is how we were working on it. Roughly 0* outside, truck wouldn't fit in this garage, and the blast heater gave out ~10 minutes into the project. Started blowing pure diesel and eyes and lungs started burning. Lovely.
You must be registered for see images attach
All the old stuff
You must be registered for see images attach
OOOOOOO shiny!!!
You must be registered for see images attach
Took a bit to get the coolant and system to purge itself, truck kept heating up and couldn't get the air out of the system. Finally after it hit the "Check Gauges" I shut if off and went in to warm up. It gave a huge belch and pushed a bunch of fluid and air out, and finally drained it all in and opened up. Cooled back down nicely, and is running like a champ.
Unfortunately, with the new pulleys (since I went with the stock OEM replacements instead of the aftermarket company) I lost the "charged" whine you guy's have heard my truck have. All exhaust leak and crappy glasspacks now!
AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
Alright fellas. Caught a break on this long weekend away from duty and got some more work towards the SAS done. Got as much as I could get done for now, so going to sit down and do a little write up I guess.
Just gonna toss this pic in first just for gits and shiggles. Buddies Deuce he just bought. SCHWEET!
Alright this is the mess I started with today. Grimey, full of dirt and surface rust on the extremeties, but structurally and internally clean and strong HP Dana 44.
Started off the tie rod and stabilizer. Then pulled off the manual hubs. 6 small alan screws hold that in. With a spring and the gear inside.
Then the small C Clip, outer lock ring, and all of that came off. Knocked out the slide locks for the brake calipers and pulled those off. Its a shame I'm not using the Ford brakes, the pads and calipers were in great condition. Would need some new rotors though.
Then off came the spindle, brake dust shield, and then finally the outer shafts. Leaving this...
You'll notice the Ford outers have a 5 stud spindle, the Chevy knuckles will have 6.
Then came out the BFH and some big ass wrenches. Ended up just twisting off the cotter pins since they were in there pretty good, and the crown nuts came off with a fight.
The ball joints on the Ford knuckles were shot anyways, so I wasn't worried about messing up threads or the ends at all. Ended up having to cut one of the nuts in half right down the middle and then just using the BFH to knock it the rest of the way out.
Then took a small wire brush and started cleaning up the axle. This shows that the metal is still great condition, just has grime on it older than me.
Difference between brushed and not
Then my arm started getting tired so I dug out a brush head for the power drill. MUCH BETTA!
Broke out some Simple Green and sprayed it all down. The grime was running off in gobs. Made a mess when I started hitting it with the brush again though.
Cracked open the pumpkin, these are the gears. Brand spankin new. 45/11 = 4.09 ratio
This is my next obstacle, going to have to drill out the webbing hole for the UBolts, since I am running round 5/8" ones flipped.
Spring plates look like they are going to work out perfect as well, except for the driver's side, which will need notched to fit around the pumpkin so the plate will sit centered on the spring pads.
I'm going to need to notch them like these
Also, the shock boots are WAY too short for the rear shocks, but might work up front. Not sure yet.
Just gonna toss this pic in first just for gits and shiggles. Buddies Deuce he just bought. SCHWEET!
You must be registered for see images attach
Alright this is the mess I started with today. Grimey, full of dirt and surface rust on the extremeties, but structurally and internally clean and strong HP Dana 44.
You must be registered for see images attach
Started off the tie rod and stabilizer. Then pulled off the manual hubs. 6 small alan screws hold that in. With a spring and the gear inside.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then the small C Clip, outer lock ring, and all of that came off. Knocked out the slide locks for the brake calipers and pulled those off. Its a shame I'm not using the Ford brakes, the pads and calipers were in great condition. Would need some new rotors though.
Then off came the spindle, brake dust shield, and then finally the outer shafts. Leaving this...
You must be registered for see images attach
You'll notice the Ford outers have a 5 stud spindle, the Chevy knuckles will have 6.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then came out the BFH and some big ass wrenches. Ended up just twisting off the cotter pins since they were in there pretty good, and the crown nuts came off with a fight.
The ball joints on the Ford knuckles were shot anyways, so I wasn't worried about messing up threads or the ends at all. Ended up having to cut one of the nuts in half right down the middle and then just using the BFH to knock it the rest of the way out.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then took a small wire brush and started cleaning up the axle. This shows that the metal is still great condition, just has grime on it older than me.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Difference between brushed and not
You must be registered for see images attach
Then my arm started getting tired so I dug out a brush head for the power drill. MUCH BETTA!
You must be registered for see images attach
Broke out some Simple Green and sprayed it all down. The grime was running off in gobs. Made a mess when I started hitting it with the brush again though.
You must be registered for see images attach
Cracked open the pumpkin, these are the gears. Brand spankin new. 45/11 = 4.09 ratio
You must be registered for see images attach
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This is my next obstacle, going to have to drill out the webbing hole for the UBolts, since I am running round 5/8" ones flipped.
You must be registered for see images attach
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Spring plates look like they are going to work out perfect as well, except for the driver's side, which will need notched to fit around the pumpkin so the plate will sit centered on the spring pads.
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I'm going to need to notch them like these
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Also, the shock boots are WAY too short for the rear shocks, but might work up front. Not sure yet.
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AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
Also retested the flex now that the rear trac bars are off and the help pack disconnected.
Heres a few shots, not going to flood with all of them. Added close to 8-9" from the last time I flexed on the rear, and also more up front since it could stuff the rear tires more.
Heres a few shots, not going to flood with all of them. Added close to 8-9" from the last time I flexed on the rear, and also more up front since it could stuff the rear tires more.
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AirmanSkee
'MURICA... NUFF SAID
Pending receipt of the pitman arm, the guy got back from the slope today. So if it is in, going to be busting my chops every day after work to get the front finished. Looks like I need to tear down another axle for the 8 lug outers, since the original ones I had, came up missing... But no biggie... Just more practice.
If the arm isn't in yet, I will still get the axle all together, and ready for the pitman arm, then start on the rear swap. Still need to pull the Dana70, but that is a quick job, and a relatively quick swap into my truck (the same as a 14ff swap, just.... heavier). Then would need to shorten the 1 ton rear driveline, or get the conversion joint for the rear. Either way, cheap and quick. Put on the new shocks, drop the helper pack, block, and all the trac bar brackets. All the shock mounts and spring pads are the same as my wimpy 10 bolt. Brake lines work perfect, with new EBrake cable coming with the axle. Accomplish the shackle flip as well while everything is out. Pull two of my tires, swap to the new rims, and bolt onto the new axle. Which, in theory, will put me QUITE A BIT wider in the rear than the front without the SAS accomplished. Can anyone say RACE TRUCK?!
If the arm isn't in yet, I will still get the axle all together, and ready for the pitman arm, then start on the rear swap. Still need to pull the Dana70, but that is a quick job, and a relatively quick swap into my truck (the same as a 14ff swap, just.... heavier). Then would need to shorten the 1 ton rear driveline, or get the conversion joint for the rear. Either way, cheap and quick. Put on the new shocks, drop the helper pack, block, and all the trac bar brackets. All the shock mounts and spring pads are the same as my wimpy 10 bolt. Brake lines work perfect, with new EBrake cable coming with the axle. Accomplish the shackle flip as well while everything is out. Pull two of my tires, swap to the new rims, and bolt onto the new axle. Which, in theory, will put me QUITE A BIT wider in the rear than the front without the SAS accomplished. Can anyone say RACE TRUCK?!
SCOTTYINWV
si vis pacem, para bellum
Shweeetttt I love progress. Take the Duce snow drifting.
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