Ok. Here are some pics (and maybe some helpful info) of my complete front end rebuild. I have to say that I was a bit nervous before I started. I took pics of most of the parts I was replacing /removing, just in case I had a brain lapse. All in all the removal of all the parts was a breeze. From taking off the hub nut (5 ft cheater bar) to removing the torsion bars from the lower arms, it was very easy.
Removing upper ball joints: As has been said probably multiple times on here, an air hammer with chisel is your BEST friend. I didn't even bother cutting two notches in the top of the rivets. I had a 9x air hammer and I knocked the tops off in about 5 seconds. I also used the air hammer to separate the ball joint from the arm. Put the chisel in between the joint and the arm and
gently separate them moving from one side to the other. I basically "cut" the rivets, thus separating the two. Once the arms were out I clamped them onto my work bench and used the air hammer and the smaller punch attachment and blew them outta the holes (worked very well).
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Everything removed except upper and lower arms / everything gone:
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Idler/Pitman arms: I didn't replace either of these. The idler arm and bracket looked fairly new, and the pitman arm will be replaced when I change the steering gear sometime in the near future. The center link was worn BTW.
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Both arms awaiting ball joint/bushing removal: I was feeling pretty good up to this point. Especially since I had a 70 ton hydraulic press.
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After removing the ball joints, which took no time, I moved on to the bushings. I have access to a plethora of large tools/machines that make life easier. In this situation it really didn't matter. The bushings couldn't have been any more difficult to remove. Between the torch and a 1/2" impact I finally got them out. Only one pic of the upper bushing.
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All together minus the rotor/caliper:
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I went ahead and changed the u-joints in both the half shaft and drive shaft while the truck was down. Again, not too difficult with a big press. One problem I ran into was on the rear joint that mounts to the yoke in rear axle. After pressing the caps into the driveshaft I put the slip yoke into the T-case and went to attach the rear, but there was a problem. The caps that fit perfectly (pressed) into the driveshaft side were too small for the retainers to hold them in place on the rear yoke.
After doing a quick measurement I found out that I needed caps that were 1 1/8", not 1 1/16". Come to find out that the caps for the half shaft were the size I needed. Luckily after my dumba$$ friend had cracked one of the caps installing them in the half shaft (and had to get a new u-joint), I had 3 extras laying around that worked.
BTW- I put anti-sieze on everything before install. I doubt most of this stuff will have to be removed, but if it does they should come off with ease. DON'T FORGET TO CLOCK THE TORSION BARS BEFORE REMOVAL!!! I didn't take a ton of pics that were entirely useful, but if you're wondering about something let me know. Maybe I'll have an answer.