Hard Start in 96 454. Please Help, this is a doozy

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brycebba

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My truck is a 96 k3500 with the vortec 454. I have a beast of a hard start issue and it is driving me freakin nuts!!!!!! I have done so much and nothing has helped, in fact, the hard start issue seems to be getting worse. It starts fine cold and if it is hot and I start the truck within little bit of shutting it off. Only when it has warmed up and sat for a while or its really hot outside and it hasnt run for a while does it do the hard start which it will crank for probably 10 seconds before starting. It didnt have an issue as far as I recall when I bought it in February but it has started and been getting worse since then. Also, being in utah the temperature has gone from about 40 degrees or so at that time to almost mid 90's daily now...not sure if that has anything to do with it because it may have cooled it down much quicker then and wasnt as noticeable? Ok, I will start with the few mods I have.

1. Magnaflow XL muffler
2. Superchips Flashpaq on Performance tune

Things I have done and it still persists
1. New 24lb injectors (tried two sets and no change)
2. New FPR stock 3 bar (tried twice just to make sure they werent defective)
3. New OEM fuel rail
4. New Coil
5. New plugs and wires
6. New cap and rotor
7. New fuel filter
8. New delphi fuel pump
9. New Ignition control module
10. New coolant temperature sensor
11. New PCV valve
12. heavily sanded ground for fuel pump so its getting a clean connection
13. Put soapy water over all fuel connections and looked for bubbles but have found none
14. cleaned EGR valve and it moved freely before but is extra smooth now.
15. Checked for codes and there are none
16. The timing reads about 26.5 at idle to 30+ when I rev it up
17. The data logging on my flashpaq seems to show that the 02 sensors pre and post cat are operating at the correct voltage
18. Cursed the truck and made my neighbors blush from my boisterous profanity
19. when doing the fuel mods the 4 times I took the plenum off I replaced the intake gaskets twice.
20. Checked the wiring going to the ignition control module because I hear it can get chafed and short but I didnt see any problems.

**When I took the plenum each time off a thing to note is each time I took the EGR valve and the black box with a vacuum line going to it off (sorry, not sure what that thing is called)

I have heard that plugged cats can cause some issues but I dont know if it sitting for a while would make it hard start compared to cool engine or quick restart not causing an issue.

So after all of this I have checked and rechecked fuel pressure after every change regarding fuel parts and it is now pressurizing better while running at 49 psi. I realized that my gauge sucks though because I cant screw it all the way down or it wont read. I have to back it off a few turns which may cause a minor leak so the psi may be higher but Im not sure and dont have access to another one. It is also possible that when I see it dropping pressure after I shut it off it is the gauge leaking down some. I can generally see it drop down to about 25 psi within 20 mins and stick there. I had a completely smooth idle after I did 1-9 in the list but then it started to get a little rougher more and more as the hard start issue has been getting worse. I am losing my mind and getting pretty frustrated with my new to me truck. All of those parts have definitely helped other running conditions, dont get me wrong but they just havent fixed this. My truck only has 65k miles so part of my reasoning behind replacing all that stuff and being ok with it is the fact that its a 96 and has that little of miles so I know it has spent some serious time sitting around.
 
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Scrufdog

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Have you dalalogged the coolant temp sensor to make sure its good? Also, how is starting on a stock tune?
 

brycebba

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hey thanks for the reply. It seems to perform the same using the stock tune. I havent done testing with the coolant temp sensor. Do you know how I would test it?
 

98_k1500

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^^^ paperclip in the plug will make it read hot if you think its overfueling on startup. I had a TBI 4.3 do this to me. Coolant temp sensor was working, but after it sat a while, it would read -40°. Flooded it so bad it was nearly impossible to start. Once it started, it would act right. I ran it around for about a week with it unplugged and a paperclip in the plug to make it not flood while i sorted out other issues. Simple test. If it still will not start, try it with the coolant temp unplugged. If neither helps, I would say the problem is not with the CTS.
 

brycebba

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so basically if the hard start is due to a faulty CTS then a paperclip in the plug makes the computer think its hot and uses a limited amount of fuel to fire it up right?
 

brycebba

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ok, I put a paperclip in so now I will wait for a bit and try.
 

98_k1500

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so basically if the hard start is due to a faulty CTS then a paperclip in the plug makes the computer think its hot and uses a limited amount of fuel to fire it up right?

Right.

It could be in the CTS wiring too, May want to check that one side of it is properly grounded and the other side has no resistance to the computer. You can test the CTS with a ohm meter, there is a table somewhere of proper temp vs resistance.
 

brycebba

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In theory could low coolant levels mess that sensor up because the coolant in the top end would drain back down and there wouldnt be any fluid near that sensor?
 

88GMCtruck

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I'm subbing in on this. I've done a bunch to mine as well and still have the hard start issue.

2 sets of injectors
new FPR
new filter
new fuel pump
new plugs wires, cap, rotor, coil
new CTS

I've given up for awhile but am curious your outcome.
 

volunteerff21

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VorTexas posted this in my build thread right when I first bought my '98

Great looking truck. I haven't been on in awhile or I would have chimed in. Hopefully you got the Bosch style injectors and not the Rochester or Delphi replacements. Also, be sure to check that you are getting the proper fuel pressure after swapping the FPR. I ran for almost a year 6-10 PSI below spec because I assumed the FPR I received was the correct one. Wrong. The one I was given maxed at 50 PSI, and you need at least 56. I purchased another thinking it had gone bad somehow and got the same result. I fixed it by getting one that was listed for the Vortec 350, now runs anywhere from 58-65 PSI.

Maybe he can chime in with a part # as to which FPR he used.
 
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