Coolant temperatures while towing

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Schurkey

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454 has 2 knock sensors for block plugs.
TBI may be different. My '97 K2500 7.4L has two knock sensors in blind holes, very near the two block drain plugs in pipe-thread holes leading to the water jacket.

I put brass draincocks into the block drain holes. Makes things easier the second time you want to drain the block.

Right side of engine block, near knock sensor. Optical illusion due to camera angle: draincock appears to be pointing "up" when it's actually level or somewhat downward.
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Left side engine block: Near oil filter and knock sensor.
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220 is nothing for the engine.
Agreed. The primary cooling fan on my '92 and '93 Luminas don't come on until 220F. The secondary cooling fan doesn't engage until 230F.

The engine is not in distress until the coolant boils, assuming that the high temperature doesn't produce detonation. If boiling or detonating, it's in REAL trouble.
 

South VA

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TBI may be different. My '97 K2500 7.4L has two knock sensors in blind holes, very near the two block drain plugs in pipe-thread holes leading to the water jacket.

I put brass draincocks into the block drain holes. Makes things easier the second time you want to drain the block.

Thanks - that's a great idea. Have you had any problems with the brass/iron interaction? And do you use teflon thread tape, pipe dope, or something else to seal the threads?
Right side of engine block, near knock sensor. Optical illusion due to camera angle: draincock appears to be pointing "up" when it's actually level or somewhat downward.
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Left side engine block: Near oil filter and knock sensor.
You must be registered for see images attach
Thanks for the photos. I would expect the '96 and '97 are similar in that regard.
Agreed. The primary cooling fan on my '92 and '93 Luminas don't come on until 220F. The secondary cooling fan doesn't engage until 230F.

The engine is not in distress until the coolant boils, assuming that the high temperature doesn't produce detonation. If boiling or detonating, it's in REAL trouble.

No signs of detonation or boiling. Sounds like it's ok, then.
 

Supercharged111

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TBI may be different. My '97 K2500 7.4L has two knock sensors in blind holes, very near the two block drain plugs in pipe-thread holes leading to the water jacket.

I put brass draincocks into the block drain holes. Makes things easier the second time you want to drain the block.

Right side of engine block, near knock sensor. Optical illusion due to camera angle: draincock appears to be pointing "up" when it's actually level or somewhat downward.
You must be registered for see images attach


Left side engine block: Near oil filter and knock sensor.
You must be registered for see images attach



Agreed. The primary cooling fan on my '92 and '93 Luminas don't come on until 220F. The secondary cooling fan doesn't engage until 230F.

The engine is not in distress until the coolant boils, assuming that the high temperature doesn't produce detonation. If boiling or detonating, it's in REAL trouble.

Ya know, I guess I'd just assumed they were block drains all this time as that's how it is on my 350 Vortec and LT1s. Shame on my for never draining mine, but when I had the radiator out everything was clean and green so refilled and went about my business. But that was 7 years ago by now. Crazy to think I've already had the dually that long.
 

Schurkey

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do you use teflon thread tape, pipe dope, or something else to seal the threads?
Loctite/Permatex 592. Anaerobic sealer, doesn't just evaporate solvent out, it hardens like thread locker. (but not so secure that the parts can't be removed. In fact, the sealer also prevents galling of the threads. Miracle stuff. There are several formulations of what are essentially similar products--565, 567, some others, and a chapstick-looking semi-solid which might be 504.

www.amazon.com/Loctite-483630-Thread-Sealant-50-Mililiter/dp/B0002KKTH2/ref=sr_1_1?

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