Changing clutch engagement height

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heavychevy98

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Anyone know how to move my clutch engagement height closer to the top? I have an external slave on an internal master and that makes it engage too close to the bottom. Will spacing my slave out achieve what I want? For am I stuck with it since its hydraulic?
 

gnrl

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not sure what you mean for external slave on internal master? I'm guessing you mean you have the GM style slave (sticks out the bellhousing near the starter but other direction). but what do you mean for internal master?
 

heavychevy98

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My truck originally had a nv3500 and was all internal slave and I blew the trans out and swapped to a 4500 but from a 95 and its external slave. I just ran a new line and use my original clutch master which is different from the one for an external slave.
 

gnrl

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hmm yea not sure, you might have to change the master to one that's the same diameter as was origionally equipped with the nv4500. maybe check to see if the PN is the same for ones with nv3500 vs nv4500? if the pn is different see if you can find master cyl diameters (like 3/4" 7/8" etc) and see if they're the same.

I know it's stupid but are you sure all of the air is out of the line too? These are a PITA to bleed fully but they can cause phantom problems like this when there is air in the system.
 

rhino

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I know they make flywheel spacers for that, but you have to pull the transmission out to install one. It basically brings the flywheel closer to the transmission for a higher pedal. We don't do many standard's, but I always install a spacer if I reface a flywheel.
 

heavychevy98

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Both are .709 bore but may be different stroke. If someone with an external style would measure the stroke at the pin on the pedal I would appreciate that
 
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heavychevy98

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I know they make flywheel spacers for that, but you have to pull the transmission out to install one. It basically brings the flywheel closer to the transmission for a higher pedal. We don't do many standard's, but I always install a spacer if I reface a flywheel.

So would that Bethe same as me somehow getting the slave closer to the clutch fork?
 

woody80z28

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Both are .709 bore but may be different stroke. If someone with an external style would measure the stroke at the pin on the pedal I would appreciate that

If they are the same bore, the stroke doesn't matter. I would try to bleed the line again to be sure it is air free. Air in the line will make you press the pedal further as the air compresses.

Unhook the pedal rod and take the cap off the master. Then pump the slave rod by hand until the bubbles are gone...then keep doing it a few more minutes just to be sure.

Another thing I always do is install a braided brake hose instead of the factory clutch line. Makes the clutch more responsive. I think I have pics in my build thread.
 
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