Bought 1998 K1500

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

benualson

Newbie
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
5.7 350 Vortex 99,000 miles.

Would like to do a coolant flush. What kind of coolant should go in?

What oil/filter?

Would also like to do a tune up, what parts do I need?



Sent from my RM-860_nam_usa_100 using Tapatalk
 

FastOrange

OBSless
Joined
Jun 17, 2010
Messages
5,877
Reaction score
241
Location
Williams Lake
what color is the coolant right now? orange or green?

I run Royal Purple and a ACDelco filter.

sparkplugs, cap/rotor, typical stuff

and its Vortec...
 

Horns

Tiff's Wedding Crasher
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
15,326
Reaction score
152
Location
Iowa
Do an inspection and replace what needs replaced.

As for coolant, go green.

~Via Mobile
 

96-1500

Bluenoser
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
1,883
Reaction score
93
Location
NS/NB, Canada
I'd drain the system, flush through with water, drain again and put green in. Some people hate Dexcool (orange), personally never experienced a problem with it but given the price I just run plain jane green with no issues.

As for oil filters, I've heard wix are the best out there, but personally I use Fram simply because I like the grip thing they put on them making them easier to install/remove with oily hands.

Get AC delco spark plugs IMO.
 

southern_z71_92

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 10, 2013
Messages
3,072
Reaction score
40
Location
West Columbia, SC
go green. like most have said. dexcool will clog a radiator in a heart beat if you have any sort of air leak. my best friends s10 did it numerous times and overheated.
 

heavychevy98

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
248
Reaction score
10
Location
Athens TN
At work I tear down engines with 750,000 miles on them. After that mileage the engines that have run extended life(dex-cool) look almost new while the standard green has pits and high amounts of corrosion. But with every service the antifreeze gets tested and additives put in to balance ph and stuff. But long story short, dex-cool protects better when it's maintained properly.
 

benualson

Newbie
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Thanks,

An additional question:

While coming to a stop, my ABS kicks in just before I stop. I have researched this & believe it to be the ABS speed sensors. If this is the case, I read that the sensors can either be replace or the hubs w/ new sensors can be replaced.

This Friday, I am having a GM dealer install new tires & do an alignment. Perhaps I should tell them to take a look into it & perhaps replace the sensors or hubs? About how much would it cost to have the sensors or hubs replaced?

Thanks,
 

poncho62

Old Fart
Joined
Oct 26, 2013
Messages
494
Reaction score
16
Location
Ontario, Canada
Thanks,

An additional question:

While coming to a stop, my ABS kicks in just before I stop. I have researched this & believe it to be the ABS speed sensors. If this is the case, I read that the sensors can either be replace or the hubs w/ new sensors can be replaced.

This Friday, I am having a GM dealer install new tires & do an alignment. Perhaps I should tell them to take a look into it & perhaps replace the sensors or hubs? About how much would it cost to have the sensors or hubs replaced?

Thanks,

You can just clean the sensors if the bearings feel alright. Jack the wheel up and see if there is any play in the bearings. Another way to tell is to drive down the road. Weave back and forth. If you can hear the sound change in the bearing, it has play in it.

At 100k, it is likely your hubs are getting worn.
 

great white

Retirement countdown!
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
6,266
Reaction score
210
There is a TSB out on low speed activation of the abs.

In a nutshell, there's rust flakes stuck to the sensors. The abs can't see the tone wheel and thinks your wheels are locked up.

Pull them out of the hub, clean them off and put them back in.

If that doesn't fix 'em you have to go deeper.

You can get the fault codes out of the abs by shorting pins a+h in the aldl connector. The abs light will flash out the fault codes. Google for the procedure before you do it.

Dexcool. Oh boy here we go....

I run dexcool. It's great stuff IMHO. Better than green by a wide margin. But it doesn't suffer fools lighty. Neglect your cooling system and you can get bit.

Mine has been in the truck for 4 years and everything is a clean as the day I rebuilt it all. No sludge, no corrosion, no crud. But I keep on top of maintenance, leaks and parts replacement as required.

All the vehicles i've seen where dexcool was a problem was not the dexcool. The engine was neglected by the owner and the dexcool bit them in the butt. Thats not the coolants fault, its the owner.

The only dexcool problem I've ever seen was the deteriorating intake gaskets when Dex first came out. That whole fracus was a combination of incompatible materials (supposedly) and the fact GM couldn't seal and intake to save thier life back then. If I were pressed for my opinion, I would say more failures were due to gm not being able to seal up a manifold properly than the Dex, but thats only my opinion...

You have to have a sealed system and it has to be in good shape to run dex. As in: cap, lines, connectors, hoses, etc. But that's just regular maintenance type stuff. Dex doesn't ask for much, just that you do what you should anyways, regularly check the cooling system and fix problems right away. You should be doing that with green too.

If Dex wasn't the factory fill for your truck, don't use it. It's likely not a sealed system. DX should have been the factory fill in a 98, but gawd knows what's in there now...

Green is more forgiving if you don't want to maintain a vehicle properly, are slack on it or have an old claptrap you don't really want to put much money in to. Buy any garden variety green and dump it in there if thats the case. Dex is supposed to be mixable with green and only reduce the service life, but I wouldn't do it. Dex even recommends a fluid change if you get stuck and have to add green as an emergency fix. I say get it all out if you're switching.

For oil I use the mobile 1 filters. They are robust and built like old filters inside. Good seals and drain back/bypass springs, metal encaps instead of cardboard, etc. They're not cheap compared to crap lime team though.

Fram is crap. Everythjng fram is crap. Fuel, oil and air filters. Remember that.

I prefer to run Synthetic oil. Mobil 1 in the wife's gasser, Rotella T6 in my diesel. Both get Mobil 1 filters.

Quality regular oil is also a fine choice as long as you change it out on the service schedule for your use. FYI, almost everyone on the road should be following the "severe service" schedule....
 
Last edited:

gmcyukondriver

Built, not bought.
Joined
Oct 12, 2010
Messages
2,255
Reaction score
185
Location
California
So I've heard the horror stories about dexcool, and I've always run Prestone green. Now, you guys are causing me to ask questions.

When I pulled the water neck (thermostat housing......whatever you want to call it) off the intake manifold, mine had some serious corrosion and gunk built up around it. Are you guys saying that this is because of running green coolant, and that dexcool won't do that?

What do you really have to watch out for more with dexcool than other coolant? How often do you completely change your coolant? How can dexcool "bite" you more than green?


Sorry for the derail, but I've never really researched dex, and you guys are making some points that, if I can find out more, might cause me to try a switch.
 
Top