94 Suburban K2500 Noob - Suspension, Transmission & Engine Questions

[neko_tensai]

1. Idling at 1,000 to 1,100
2. Shifting a bit hard
3. Shifting to 2nd at 2,600rpm (chirping the rubber going into 2nd)
4. Brakes totally inadequate
5. Engine sometimes hits 220 F, i.e. 1,000 feet per minute climb rate; or 2 hours in city traffic
6. Dual electric fans (loud ones) & custom shroud only covering 60% of large, new, custom radiator.
7. Auxillary fan, no information.
8. 70,000 miles
9. Sat for about 3 years
10. Must push accelerator slowly & gently, too quickly and zero power, cuts out.


I had a nice conversation with the 18 wheeler gasoline tanker driver at the Chevron station last week whom I parked next to (I was using the paid for normal pump, don't get any crazy ideas!!!!!) . The irony is that the 18 wheeler is getting better gas mileage than me, while pulling a full semi tanker of said gasoline. Further irony is that it was easier to drive a “tractor trailer” than my Suburban due to braking issues and visibility issues. I had been previously licensed to drive 80,000 gvwr myself.

My next nearest caliber of vehicle was a lifted Cherokee. I’ve recently off roaded some (rented) Wrangler Unlimiteds, stock everything, 4wd and I can say, they ride like Cadillacs compared to my Suburban with 6 leaf suspension.

OBJECTIVES HERE!! : Determine what TC, front diff, rear axle I have. Ideas and solutions to problems above.

BUDGET!! : I’m saving up for a Hi Lift X-treme if that tells you anything. No garage. Some free time.

ON MY MIND!! : Sway bar link bushings are totally shot, links are getting a bit gnarly. Looking for cheap disconnects or total removal. I have experience driving without the links, in a much lighter vehicle.

ANY SUGGESTIONS APPRECIATED!!

94 Suburban K2500 - Silverado - 4WD - Rear Diff Lock - 7.4l 454 - 4l80e - Heavy Duty Tow Package - 37" Tires - 4" Body Lift - 6" Suspension Lift

 

[Black_cirrus]

Probably a 241c tcase, 9.25 gm front diff and 14bolt rear, look at the rpos in the glove box for factory ratio gt4 is 3.73 & gt5 is 4.10. that said I'd say it would not surprise me to know they where re-geared with the lift. My 95 454 with 4.10's barely gets 8 on 285's runs 210 on the gauge I need to check with scanner because my 350 I know the sender is off 20 degrees from the ect. I put ss brake lines on the front because mine had lost rubber parts, clean and adjusted the back brakes and good pads and it stops decent. I put in a c3500hd hydrobooster in it too not sure if that changed anything.

 

[neko_tensai]

I put in a new air filter and checked fluids again today.

I have my Amazon shopping cart full:
Wires
Plugs + Gap tool
Rotor
Distributor Cap
Map Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
Oxygen Sensor
PCV Valve
Socket Set
Wrench Set
Lug Wrench
Spark Plug Socket
Hawk Performance Super Duty brake pads
Stant 16psi vented radiator cap
Never Dull
Locking Gas Cap
Locking Lug Nutz

I just assume get the stuff and put it in. I guess I'll have my mechanic do the heavy lifting. I'll have him do a transmission filter and flush, check TC fluid and differential fluids. I cant even do that myself.

I'm going to cut out the sway bar links with a hacksaw and if I cant handle it I'll order a set of disconnects. I don't drive that much really and highway low speed only a mile or two at a time.

I was 3 quarts low on trans fluid when I got it recently and wonder if I didn't gum up the shift solenoids with settled debris, which are cheap. I guess I should really have him check the engine light code on that before buying them. Is it supposed to shift to 2nd at 2600rpm? I'm thinking of speed sensor as well. I really don't know much about these things.

Getting the old locking lug nuts off (no key) will be up to the mechanic. He did that on another car of mine and it was really fun...

Advice?

fyi, its 8 lug front and back. I'll get under it soon and take some decent pics and check the glove box, etc. for any info The engine bay has too much ridiculous extra stuff to really mention. Center console is a giant MTX sub, custom built housing for a MTX amp next to the 4wd shifter. There's a "electronic anti rust" module near the battery, I guess they ran voltage through the body? Ha, the voltage apparently missed a few spots.

Not really sure about the lift height. I broke a leaf spring clip a week ago and when I get it welded next week I'll try to figure out exactly what lift it has.

 

[tinfoil_hat]

My gut reaction is to warn you away from the trans flush. The redneck "wisdom" I was raised on says you never flush an old trans because it will die on you a few months later. Changing the solenoids and the filter is safe, then just top off the fluid. Maybe some people with more experience will overrule me on that. I have also ruined trannys with snake oil additives.

As for the overheating, there's a few issues. First off you can't always trust that gauge. Then there's the whole DexCool debacle. Sediment blocking off cooling passages. When I drained my '96 5.7L nothing came out of either crank case drain plug. Not a drop. I had to snake it out with a wire to break up the sediment before it would drain. I have pulled lower intakes off rigs at the pick n' pull and seen coolant just standing there in the back passages even though the rad was disconnected and the drain plugs were out. Not sure if the 454's exhibit the same issues. You will also sometimes find thermostats installed upside down. When all is said and done you might be dollars ahead by just reverting the entire cooling system back to stock.

The 8 lug front and rear is correct for 3/4 ton. Hopefully you have your original glove box because those codes on the sticker will tell you all the OEM information for gear ratios, t-case, etc.

http://www.rpocodes.com/GM-RPO-codes/gmrpocodesAthroughF.html

 

[neko_tensai]

My mechanic said water pump on first glance (not been on the rack yet). Previous owner conferred. Fyi, radiator, hoses and thermostat are all new. I am leaning towards water pump, at 70k miles the fluids are all golden and clear. I think his water pump quote was too high, he’s always fair so I dunno. He’ll explain. I’m like the worst back seat mechanic at his garage but he knows I like hanging out and seeing but I know better than to get in the way. (I have an injury and cant do these things myself so…)

Q: Back to stock fan and shroud vs new water pump for next step?



Transmission: I have read a lot of (other car models I owned) forums that agree with the flush causing issues. I flushed one and it renewed it, but I’ll let the mechanic make the call, then bite the bullet if it fails after a full flush. It’s a fair garage actually. But why hard ****? Is shift at 2600 into 2nd normal? It’ll drop into 2nd at 1,800 if im cruising down a slight grade after a long long while. I’m getting tired of the engine winding up to 2600 and sitting at 2600 doing 30mph to 35mph or so endlessly in city traffic. That has to stop. What the heck is that?



Idle is 1,200!!! Wtf?



I ordered parts:

Gap tool
Rotor
Distributor Cap
Map Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
Oxygen Sensor
PCV Valve
Socket Set
Wrench Set
Lug Wrench
Spark Plug Socket
Never Dull
Locking Lug Nutz

Need to get local plugs, wires and other tidbits.

Amazon slow as can be…. I got a step ladder at Walmart. I will slowly get these parts in. Really should just get a code reader too.

Need to think about learning to tune the tbi. Just cant do it right now. So busy. Didn’t check glove box yet. Keep forgetting.

I will get some rusty pics soon

 

[neko_tensai]

Exciting....


AG9 ADJUSTER FRT ST POWER, 6 WAY
AJ1 WINDOW TINTED DEEP, ALL EXCEPT W/S AND DRS
AS3 SEAT RR SUBURBAN/UTILITY
AT5 SEAT RR CTR, FLDG
AU3 LOCK CONTROLSIDE DR, ELEC
AU6 LOCK CONTROLEND GATE WINDOW, REM CONT ELEC RELEASE
AXP VIN IDENT POSITION, MULTI-PURPOSE VEHICLE
A31 WINDOW POWER OPERATED, ALL DOORS
B33 COVERING REAR FLOOR MATS, AUX
B37 COVERING FLOOR MAT, FRT & RR, AUX
B85 MOLDING B/S EXTERIOR, BRIGHT
C25 WIPER SYSTEM RR WINDOW, INTERMITTENT
C49 DEFOGGER RR WINDOW, ELECTRIC
C6P GVW RATING 8,600 LBS/3,900 KG
COMG GVW RATING GIVES NO *****
C60 HVAC SYSTEM AIR CONDITIONER FRT, MAN CONTROLS
C69 HVAC SYSTEM RR AIR CONDITIONER
DK6 CONSOLE ROOFINTERIOR
D48 MIRROR O/S LH & RH, REMOTE CONTROL, ELECTRIC, COLOR.
D55 CONSOLE FRT COMPT, FLOOR
E55 BODY EQUIPMENT END GATE
FE9 CERTIFICATIONEMISSION, FEDERAL
FF8 ARM LHTORS BAR SPRING ADJ (G)
FF9 ARM RH TORS BAR SPRING ADJ (H)
F60 RATIO TRANSAXLE FINAL DRIVE 2.39
GT5 AXLE REAR 4.10 RATIO
G80 AXLE POSITRACTION LIMITED SLIP
JAN PLANT CODE JANESVILLE, WI, USA
JD7 BRAKE HYD POWER, DISC/DRUM, 8,400 LBS
KNP COOLING SYSTEM TRANS, HD
K34 CRUISE CONTROL AUTOMATIC, ELECTRONIC
K68 GENERATOR 105 AMP
MT1 TRANSMISSIONAUTO 4 SPD, HMD, 4L80-E
MX0 MERCHANDISED TRANSAUTO PROVISIONS, O/D
NA5 EMISSION SYSTEM FEDERAL, TIER 0
NK3 STEERING WHEEL SPORT, SOFT RIM, SIMULATED LEATHERSHIELD
NY1 SHIELD FUEL TANK
NZZ SALES PACKAGESKID PLATE, "OFF ROAD" SPOT
N33 STEERING COLUMN TILT TYPE
P06 TRIM DISCS WHEEL
QIW TIRE ALL LT245/75R16/E BW R/PE ST TL OOR 120Q
R7R CONTROL SALES ITEM NO. 42
R8G CONTROL SALES ITEM NO. 57
R8T CONTROL SALES ITEM NO. 69
SLL SALES PROCESSING SOLD ORDERS
TR9 LAMP GROUP
UX1 RADIO AM STEREO/FM STEREO, SEEK/SCAN, AUTO REV MUSIC SEARCH CASS, EQUALIZER, CLOCK, ETR
U16 TACHOMETER ENGINE
U88 SPEAKER SYSTEM 9, CUSTOM
VK3 LICENSE PLATE FRONT FRT MOUNTING PKG
VXS VEHICLE COMPLETE
V22 GRILLE RADIATOR, CHROME
V27 GUARDS BUMPER, FRT
V54 LUGGAGE CARRIER ROOF, PAINTED
V73 VEHICLE STATEMENT USA/CANADA
XGK TIRE FRONT LT245/75R16/E BW R/PE ST TL OOR 120Q
X88 MARKET BRAND CHEVROLET
YD3 AXLE (BASE EQUIP) FOR SCHEDULING GVW PLATE
YD6 SPRINGRR, BASE EQUIPMENT
YE9 CONVENIENCE PKG COMFORT & DECOR LEVEL #3
YGK TIRE REAR LT245/75R16/E BW R/PE ST TL OOR 120Q
ZGK TIRE SPARE LT245/75R16/E BW R/PE ST TL OOR 120Q
ZP6 SALES PACKAGECOMBINATION - RR WINDOW WIPER/RR WINDOW DEFOGGER
ZQ2 SALES PACKAGEDRIVER CONVENIENCE
ZQ3 SALES PACKAGEDRIVER CONVENIENCE II
ZY1 COLOR COMBINATION SOLID
1SC PACKAGE OPTION 03
13D TRIM COMBINATION CLOTH, LT GRAY (D),(96)
13I INTERIOR TRIMLT SMOKE GRAY (94)
6GL COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (6GL)
7GL COMPONENT FRT RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (7GL)

 

[tinfoil_hat]

You got some cool options in there.

 

[neko_tensai]

I had to remove that really bad image hosting...... I will put photos back later
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[neko_tensai]

High idle resolved.
Shift at 2600 resolved.

When the welder put the temporary fix leaf spring clip on the left rear leaf spring, he disconnected the battery and apparently reset the ECM. Everything is back to normal now.

I will put in the new parts anyway as part of an all around tune up.

 

[tinfoil_hat]

That geared thing is part of your cv axle It's the wheel speed ring for ABS brakes.
So it's running better now? That was easy.
Before buying a new p/s pump, make sure it's actually leaking at the pump and not at the steering gear. While you are down there, grease all your steering parts: Balljoints, tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm.