'92 C1500 4.3L 5 speed. Unable to shift with engine running.

[0xDEADBEEF]

Good call.

If there's oil saturating the friction disc - or any other part of the clutch for that matter - a new clutch kit will suffer the same fate, sooner than later.

Now I'm wondering if that's the problem with my own junk. I hope not. I don't want to have to pull the friggen engine this close to being ready for inspection.

The oil doesn't get on the clutch side of the flywheel, in my experience anyway.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The oil doesn't get on the clutch side of the flywheel, in my experience anyway.

I've got a rear main leak on my Camaro's SB350 (two-piece seal), and the oil runs straight down the back of the block from the crank.

But the oil then collects in the inspection cover (auto trans) and, when it puddles in bottom of the cover (whiich does NOT take much oil in my case) the flexplate ring gear catches it and the mist goes pretty much everywhere... more-so on the passenger's side (and onto the starter nose) but there doesn't seem to be any area in the "housing" formed by the engine / trans / cover that is immune.

The oil never runs out of the inspection cover drain hole because the ring gear spreads it around before the puddle can reach the hole. I suppose if I ran the engine long enough to accumulate a lot oil in the cover, it would drain out with the engine off, but I don't let it accumulate.

 

[_slxck]

Good call.

If there's oil saturating the friction disc - or any other part of the clutch for that matter - a new clutch kit will suffer the same fate, sooner than later.

Now I'm wondering if that's the problem with my own junk. I hope not. I don't want to have to pull the friggen engine this close to being ready for inspection.

Yeah I've never had issues with the friction disc getting wet with oil from the engine leaking. Every truck I've owned has puked oil from one place or another at some point and it never caused problems like this before. Even when the rear main/oil pan was where the leak was. Regardless, if I use the clutch I already have I wouldn't be too upset if it were to get ruined. The '95 I have is the one I'm focusing my attention on and that's getting a brand new clutch and flywheel no matter what so.

Also, I don't know where in PA you're located but if it's anywhere near me I can get you inspected with or without an engine lol.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Point is, it's oil/fluid from something. My advice is to find where it all came from and fix it before installing a new clutch.

Meh, kind of a stupid thing to be deliberating about.

 

[_slxck]

Point is, it's oil/fluid from something. My advice is to find where it all came from and fix it before installing a new clutch.

Meh, kind of a stupid thing to be deliberating about.

No I get what you're saying, I just don't plan on driving this one any more than a couple months so I'll take my chances with it.

Some may look at it like that, I'm not the one who would do the inspection so it's no risk for me personally. I just steer those in need where they want to go, besides that it's none of my concern.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Indeed.

Let us know how the new clutch kit works out, yes?

 

[_slxck]

Indeed.

Let us know how the new clutch kit works out, yes?

Of course. I certainly don't like getting to the end of a thread just to be left hanging so I'll keep you's updated. I was going to order the few parts I need off rockauto but they wouldn't arrive until Thursday so I'll probably just pay a little extra and pick up a TOB, output shaft seal and some fluid at autozone tomorrow. I should have it all together and back in the truck by the end of the day given both parts are in stock.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I wish it only took me a single day to R&R a clutch. Last clutch I replaced took no less than a week. Time constraints during the week, tight funding, and lack of availability of parts seems to always hinder progress.

 

[Erik the Awful]

so I'll probably just pay a little extra and pick up a TOB

The clutch kit didn't come with a throwout and pilot bearing? ABSOLUTELY REPLACE YOUR PILOT BEARING. It is the most likely cause of not being able to shift.

 

[_slxck]

The clutch kit didn't come with a throwout and pilot bearing? ABSOLUTELY REPLACE YOUR PILOT BEARING. It is the most likely cause of not being able to shift.

I'm gonna re-use a different clutch assembly. I put it in brand new, put ~1,000 miles on it and ended up scrapping the truck but I pulled the trans beforehand. I paid $400 for this truck wrecked and don't plan on driving it long so I figured I'd try and save a little bread if I can.

As for the pilot bearing, I already have a few new bearings and bushings on hand. There is a pilot bushing installed at the moment which appears to be ok and input shaft on the trans looks perfect. I'll replace it regardless because I have several new ones laying around already but I don't think the current one is causing my issues.