Thank you Tom Mobley. You are correct, just because I would prefer to yank all the electronics out of the truck does not mean that it is the proper way for the OP to do it. He may be better served to alter the computer or do whatever it is that you do to EFI vehicles. I have never hot rodded a...
The work that has to be done to the heads is outlined in the link to Grumpy that I provided you in post 16. What I was suggesting is a low-buck plan re-using the cast iron peanut port heads that came on your motor. Grumpy will outline the work to be done to them to make a motor that produces 500...
I sent you the wrong link on the first post. Here is the correct one...
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900/
If you don't like the looks of the crankshaft journals, have your machine shop to grind them to the first undersize, -0.010". Everyone makes bearings for these cranks in -0.010", -0.020" and -0.030" undersize.
Both the Chevrolet Gen I small block 400 cubic inch motor and the Gen I big block...
I did a little work for you concerning static compression ratio....
Using a Fel-Pro head gasket, Summit part number FEL-17046.....
Figuring your combustion chambers at 116 cc's.....(many thanks to Bob Parmenter at ClubHotRod.com for coming up with the volume of these heads)
I'm figuring all...
OK, here is what you said...…
It will mostly be driven for fun, not much towing. But I still want the engine to handle the truck. So rather low rpm torque than 6000rpm HP.
The key to building a low-rpm, high-torque motor like you are envisioning is to use a large cubic inch motor such as a 454...