Recent content by Diptenkrom

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    Suburban axle swap

    seems like a place to stay away from in the future... Thanks for all the info. will be starting to collect parts as soon as i get my other car back on the road. (suspension work that got drug out due to missing special tool, and shop press usage)
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    Suburban axle swap

    honestly, if the thought is that it wont "ABS" properly, then i am cool with that. i would much rather have solid normal brakes than rears that lock up before the fronts, or instead of the fronts. Not ideal i know, but i have had plenty of vehicles with no, or non functional ABS, and know how to...
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    Suburban axle swap

    good question.. ;but my thought was that making everything bigger (2500HD/3500) parts, would make the balance back to intended. Thanks for the added discussion and extra things to consider.
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    Suburban axle swap

    I just want to make sure that they work well, and are balanced. I also don't want to mess with hydroboost, and extra fluid lines in the engine bay. just simple working brakes is all that i am after. Should be a benefit when towing as well, which i do little of, especially anything heavy. most of...
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    Help with a 6 lug axle swap i did

    you can just swap the input yoke and use the existing driveshaft as is.
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    Suburban axle swap

    Not trying to start another thread, revive a dead one, or reinvent the wheel here, but I have a brake question as well, since the rear axle swap is a brake upgrade to the rear, and I have had some experience with unbalanced braking systems, I did some reading. Keeping regular vac booster for...
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    Suburban axle swap

    Thanks guys! So it sounds like the tuck axle will work fine, it just doesnt have breackets for teh swaybar, and the handbrakes will just hook up. So new u bolts on donor vehicle plates, swap input yoke, hook up existing or new brake lines, and good to go! Also i would definitely build the "new"...
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    Suburban axle swap

    I have a 97 K1500 Suburban with the factory 10bolt and G80 locker. I was thinking of upgrading to a TrueTrac, but instead changed gears to getting a 14 bolt and building that up to put in. This is not a daily driver, but more of a utilitarian hauler, that i can use for whatever i have going on...
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    Trans cooler install with drain valve

    that is a plan. i have done that before. i was just trying to make it a little easier and less messy... I dont like disconnecting/reconnecting hoses over and over.
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    Trans cooler install with drain valve

    I thought about a T at the bottom hose connection, but that would be kinda difficult to fit and work with.
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    Trans cooler install with drain valve

    I have been planning on a trans cooler upgrade and have all the stuff to go forward with this now, as per this thread - https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-factory-auxiliary-trans-cooler-upgrade.18104/ I have 1997 k1500 suburban with the 5.7. I have a twist to add, and want opinions, as well...
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    98 Vortec 350 - comp ratio

    I bought the parts for my upgrade/repair. I have another question now. I got Ramjet/HT383 cam, Beehive Springs, CompCams retainers and 1.6 rockers (roller tip, as there were no stamped ones, and i dont see the need to spend abunch of money on aluminum, and the ratio makes more difference than...
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    Lowering front end for repair access

    i thought about that, lol. :) seems more work than the 6x6 under the control arms method. just wanted to get an idea of whether that was a good method or not. i will be pulling the front apart to some degree as well, but wanted to make access to the inside as easy as possible, as i will be...
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    Lowering front end for repair access

    I am about to pull the heads on my Vortec 350 suburban. Was wondering if anyone has any ideas of how to make the front end sit lower to make accessing the engine easier. I don't think that deflating the tires will do quite enough. What have you guys sat it on and where to get it lower for engine...
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    Hey I need some advice.

    dont have to remove the pulley at all, just undo the 2 bolts near the top, one nut, and the one bolt below and to the left of the pulley (if looking at from the front) and there is a bolt on the backside that is in a slotted hole, just loosen it, and the whole thing will pull forward enough to...
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