Suburban axle swap

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Diptenkrom

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I have a 97 K1500 Suburban with the factory 10bolt and G80 locker. I was thinking of upgrading to a TrueTrac, but instead changed gears to getting a 14 bolt and building that up to put in. This is not a daily driver, but more of a utilitarian hauler, that i can use for whatever i have going on. I thought i knew what i was doing after a little reading then i ran across another thread where someone asked the question for a pickup and it was mentioned that Truck/SUV are different...

I was looking for a 14 bolt Semi-float, with 6 lug axles, and my understanding was that i needed the spring plates from the donor vehicle, and then i will have to adapt the driveshaft/change yoke/etc. I figure i will have to mess with brake lines and handbrake and plan on putting all new brake hardware and bearings/seals in the axle before installation as well. Is there anything i am missing? Are the Truck vs SUV axles different widths? i had found an axle close to me for $300 but if it is not usable as it is from a truck, not a Burb/Tahoe, then that will do me no good.

Any advice or info is appreciated. This forum has helped me do a few projects on this thing already, and i am very grateful for the knowledgebase that is here.
headwork/cam/rockers (done), 0411 ECU swap (parts assembled), trans shift kit with upgraded servos and trans cooler (parts assembled), rear end to come for longevity and support of towing with previous / future mods.
 

DamHoodlum

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I have a 97 K1500 Suburban with the factory 10bolt and G80 locker. I was thinking of upgrading to a TrueTrac, but instead changed gears to getting a 14 bolt and building that up to put in. This is not a daily driver, but more of a utilitarian hauler, that i can use for whatever i have going on. I thought i knew what i was doing after a little reading then i ran across another thread where someone asked the question for a pickup and it was mentioned that Truck/SUV are different...

I was looking for a 14 bolt Semi-float, with 6 lug axles, and my understanding was that i needed the spring plates from the donor vehicle, and then i will have to adapt the driveshaft/change yoke/etc. I figure i will have to mess with brake lines and handbrake and plan on putting all new brake hardware and bearings/seals in the axle before installation as well. Is there anything i am missing? Are the Truck vs SUV axles different widths? i had found an axle close to me for $300 but if it is not usable as it is from a truck, not a Burb/Tahoe, then that will do me no good.

Any advice or info is appreciated. This forum has helped me do a few projects on this thing already, and i am very grateful for the knowledgebase that is here.
headwork/cam/rockers (done), 0411 ECU swap (parts assembled), trans shift kit with upgraded servos and trans cooler (parts assembled), rear end to come for longevity and support of towing with previous / future mods.

I'm not sure a K1500 14 bolt semi will fit a Burb-Tahoe someone else would have to verify that.

I do know you will need the 14 bolt spring plates & U bolts from the doner, or you can buy them here https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/

You can swap the 14-bolt yoke to your 10-bolt yoke and not have to do any driveshaft modifications or
Leave the 14-bolt yoke and get a conversion u-joint
or
Convert your transmission yoke to accommodate the heavy duty 1350 U joints front & rear

I would recommend changing the G80 Gov-Loc to something of an Eaton variety.

Install ALL new bearings, seals, brakes of your choice and you will have strong dependable rear axle
 

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Schurkey

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The magazine article I based my K1500 pickup/14-bolt semi-float conversion on, used a pickup axle under their 1500 Tahoe. Apparently, the axles are interchangeable except the SUVs may have brackets for a rear sway bar that the pickup axles don't, and the park brake cables have many variations depending on application and wheelbase--so use the cables that fit the vehicle you're converting to the bigger axle.

Even the GM service manual says that you shouldn't re-use U-bolts. Get new ones, and be careful of the torque spec.

I used the 447 conversion U-joint in my OEM driveshaft.

The magazine is no more, and I didn't copy the photos separately, so I guess they're gone forever.
 

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Nad_Yvalhosert

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Thats the nice thing about the 88-98 1500's. 4x4 axles are the same width, pickup or SUV.

My 14 bolt is already under my Yukon. It was a direct swap where the parking cables were concerned: the Yukon retained its OE set. Yes, I lost the OE sway bar and I don't notice any difference. Though Hotchkiss makes one that'll likely be installed down the line.

The brake lines are the same 10 bolt to 14 bolt, if you were to purchase as I did: prebent stainless with a braided rear hose to match the front.

The 10 bolt axle, its 11" SUV brakes and sway bar are headed to a rebulder for a refresh and installation on an open diff, leading/trailing vehicle I'm restoring. I'll just have to fab sway link mounts, and contact Hotchkiss for an upgraded front sway bar.

The OE driveshafts were also retained and a conversion u-joint made the connection.

Lastly, I work at a suspension shop, so brand new leaf center bolts and u-bolts were installed without even thinking. Because here in New Yuck, they dont unbolt. They're melted off with the hot wrench.


Thank the automotive gods for the 9.5 14 bolt. Best. Upgrade. Ever.
 

Diptenkrom

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Thanks guys! So it sounds like the tuck axle will work fine, it just doesnt have breackets for teh swaybar, and the handbrakes will just hook up. So new u bolts on donor vehicle plates, swap input yoke, hook up existing or new brake lines, and good to go!

Also i would definitely build the "new" axle with a truetrac before installing.
 
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Diptenkrom

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Not trying to start another thread, revive a dead one, or reinvent the wheel here, but I have a brake question as well, since the rear axle swap is a brake upgrade to the rear, and I have had some experience with unbalanced braking systems, I did some reading. Keeping regular vac booster for brakes - not interested in HB swap. Just want to hear a confirmation if I am on the right track.

So with the 14 bolt SF 9.5" 6-lug axle swap, i should get:
(96-99?) C/K 3500 rear wheel cylinders
remaining factory (to the donor vehicle) rear drum brake hardware
front 3500 SRW calipers with brackets"
front 3500 SRW pads - (may require grinding to the outer lower pad backing to clear rotor hat)
front stock 1500 rotors
3500 SRW master cylinder
stainless lines to replace rubber ones (I assume that regular 1500 lines work, or do I need them for 2500HD/3500)

I think this would get me to the reliable, durable, better braking thing hauler that i need my 'Burb to be. Then off to finish the other upgrades i have parts for laying around here. and find a good rear bumper, front seats, fix the little annoyances it has, and just maintain and enjoy it for a while.
 

Schurkey

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You're pretty-much converting the whole system to the "one-ton, 3500" brakes EXCEPT that the one-tons would have 13" drums instead of 11.x; and likely hydroboost.

You're doing a more-extensive conversion than I did. I basically ended-up with JB6 brakes, starting from JN3.
 

Diptenkrom

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I just want to make sure that they work well, and are balanced. I also don't want to mess with hydroboost, and extra fluid lines in the engine bay. just simple working brakes is all that i am after. Should be a benefit when towing as well, which i do little of, especially anything heavy. most of the time it is a simple utility trailer with a couple quads, a motorcycle, some furniture, or something like that, not a lot of weight. does it seem like my list is complete and compatible?

BTW these axles have started to get a little pricy from comparing older threads and price range that people mentioned 5-10 years ago.

Thanks!
 

Schurkey

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I won't make any promises. I don't know what the difference is between the regular wheel cylinders and the 3500 wheel cylinders is; I don't know what bore size the 3500 master cylinder is, or what the caliper piston size is.

You're using 3500 hydraulics on 6-lug 2500 rear drums and 1500 front rotors and booster.

Let us know how it works out.
 

AuroraGirl

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I won't make any promises. I don't know what the difference is between the regular wheel cylinders and the 3500 wheel cylinders is; I don't know what bore size the 3500 master cylinder is, or what the caliper piston size is.

You're using 3500 hydraulics on 6-lug 2500 rear drums and 1500 front rotors and booster.

Let us know how it works out.
is he maintaining rabs functionality? Or... whatever a suburban has? That could get spicy
 
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