What are your thoughts on this rust? Can I repair or do I need to replace?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Caman96

OEM Baby!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
7,000
Reaction score
13,627
Location
The Hub
Best I can do is a Menards! (and they don't carry it) actually, we do have an Ace. I'll check it out, thanks.
 

454cid

Sooper Pooper
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
8,083
Reaction score
9,083
Location
The 26th State
Best I can do is a Menards! (and they don't carry it) actually, we do have an Ace. I'll check it out, thanks.

I just checked Menard's website, and my local store doesn't carry it, but they'll order it.

Never mind, I just read that you've got to order 4 gallons (a case) and you probably don't want that much.
 

jhornsby3

Newbie
Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
27
Reaction score
59
Location
Sheridan, Oregon
Welcome to the forum from Oregon, where we have no salt on roads and no RUST.

They don't use salt but the calcium chloride and magnesium chloride doesnt cause too much rust but will eat the wiring pretty fast. And you've forgotten, Oregonians don't tan, they rust. Bad on you, you lose your gills and half of your webbing between your toes.:D
 

SDgunner

Newbie
Joined
Dec 27, 2023
Messages
18
Reaction score
36
Location
South Dakota
It goes a long way, make sure you cut it per directions. :deal:
Directions call for it straight and let it set overnight for rust removal. If you're using it to etch bare metal then it gets cut. I tried it on a test area and it worked pretty well. I'm going to hit it with this acid and then cover it with a cold galvanizing spray paint. It'll be interesting to see how it fairs.
 

Caman96

OEM Baby!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
7,000
Reaction score
13,627
Location
The Hub
Directions call for it straight and let it set overnight for rust removal. If you're using it to etch bare metal then it gets cut. I tried it on a test area and it worked pretty well. I'm going to hit it with this acid and then cover it with a cold galvanizing spray paint. It'll be interesting to see how it fairs.
I was just testing you to see if you read directions. ;) lol, yes, correct that’s just for painting. Take some before and after photos!
 

JJF20

Newbie
Joined
May 23, 2023
Messages
11
Reaction score
24
Location
Northern Ontario, Canada
I’m not sure how deep you’re going to get into this, thought I’d pass this on if you’re going further than oil spraying etc.

If you’re cleaning things up and coating, there is a product that has worked very well for me. POR I’ve given up on, it fails after a few yrs, and is not UV stable at all. And I do not like their prep process.

I’ve tried a lot of different ways of cleaning, treating, painting, coating, etc rusty parts. There’s really no easy fix. Sand blasting to bare, and epoxy prime is traditionally best. But, not always practical.

I have had good success with Mastercoat. Well prepped, sandblasted/spotbalsted, and clean (lacquer thinner, mek, etc) At the very least wirewheel etc. Just keep in mind - if the rust can still flake off, so can the coating, even small stuff. Then top coat with your choice. I recommend top coat (epoxy, enamel, what ever you’re using) it while it is transfer free, but still tacky.

Good luck with it, loads of fun.
 
Top