Thinking about buying a digital torque wrench

[1952Chevy]

I have some old sockets welded to a strip of 1/8" plate that I can mount in my vise. Set your torque wrench and hang the appropriate weight off then end and see if it clicks/beeps. Test at a low, mid, and high setting. Test at a setting just above the weight to ensure it doesn't click/beep. Save $50/$125.

Best practices:
Always store your torque wrench with it set to the "zero" (or lowest) setting.

You "should" put your torque wrench on an immobile test fixture (i.e. sockets welded to a strip of 1/8" plate) before you use it and cycle it through a few clicks before you set it and torque something.

I'm trying to figure out how to get in good with our PMEL section at my current base so they can calibrate, or at least test my stuff. Ive got 2 older Crafstman USA made units. Have treated me well. Not sure I've really ever even used my 3/8s yet. They sat in the toolbox(at my dads) while I was living in Germany for 6 years.

Everything else you said is exactly what is required of us. I can't turn in a torque wrench unless its at its lowest setting. Right at the checkout counter there are fixtures like you mention. Our operating instruction says cycle them 6 times at their highest torque setting. For larger wrenches(over about 75ft/lbs), cycle them at the setting they highest setting you will use them for that day, 6 times.

 

[Schurkey]

CDI and Precision Instruments are what I usually recommend; although there's other quality brands.

Snap-On owns CDI. That's who makes 'em for Snappy. If you buy the CDI-branded equivalent, you don't get the Snap-On ratchet head, you get a generic ratchet head.

Precision Instruments makes them for Snap On and others.

OOoops. Apparently I got that backwards.

 

[Schurkey]

I have some old sockets welded to a strip of 1/8" plate that I can mount in my vise. Set your torque wrench and hang the appropriate weight off then end and see if it clicks/beeps. Test at a low, mid, and high setting. Test at a setting just above the weight to ensure it doesn't click/beep. Save $50/$125.

Better than nothing. And not really an issue with most automotive torque wrenches. The "big" torque wenches would need compensation--the weight of the torque wrench itself adds to the weight hung off the handle end during testing.

Best practices:
Always store your torque wrench with it set to the "zero" (or lowest) setting.

Generally the lowest setting on the scale, not "zero".

Needed for micrometer-adjusted torque wrenches. NOT needed for "split-beam" style clickers, or--I guess--electronic torque wrenches. But then, "split-beam" style clickers can't be used in reverse. The ratchet heads don't even have a reverse lever on them.

You "should" put your torque wrench on an immobile test fixture (i.e. sockets welded to a strip of 1/8" plate) before you use it and cycle it through a few clicks before you set it and torque something.

Yup. I cheat--I set the torque wrench at somewhat less than the torque I want, and pop the mechanism a few times on the item I'm wanting to torque. After that, I adjust the torque up to what I am trying to achieve.

Right at the checkout counter there are fixtures like you mention. Our operating instruction says cycle them 6 times at their highest torque setting. For larger wrenches(over about 75ft/lbs), cycle them at the setting they highest setting you will use them for that day, 6 times.

I guess I'm doing things wrong. I'm not cycling them at higher torque.

 

[454cid]

Everything else you said is exactly what is required of us. I can't turn in a torque wrench unless its at its lowest setting. Right at the checkout counter there are fixtures like you mention. Our operating instruction says cycle them 6 times at their highest torque setting. For larger wrenches(over about 75ft/lbs), cycle them at the setting they highest setting you will use them for that day, 6 times.

I had no idea. I typically torque things in steps, but that's not getting me higher than what I'll be using.

 

[skylark]

The prices make my eyes water but I would live one or several. Maybe Santa.

Here is how I "afford" larger, eye watering purchases. I buy everything with cash so first I'm not wasting money paying someone else to use theirs. Secondly I try to pay for everything with a $10 or $20 bill. The change goes into my center console and I use that for extras. Third, every time that I step on the tool truck I ask what is the special of the week. Here is the hard part, I wait until after the sale is over and ask if they still have a bunch of xxxxx left. If they do I'll offer a bit less. For a truck that sells volume this works. Fourth, if there is something that I really want, I'll mention it to my truck guys. I bought my torque wrench at less than my dealers cost because he repossessed it from someone else and only charged me for the unpaid balance. I paid in cash from my center console fund and it didn't hurt a bit.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I bought my torque wrench at less than my dealers cost because he repossessed it from someone else and only charged me for the unpaid balance.

Yeah, my son gets good deals doing that too, and then I borrow them

 

[GoToGuy]

You could use your personal torque wrenches or check some from the tool parts supply guys. But you must check on one of two bench mounted torque indicators. The only exceptions were the 2000 ft lb torque wrench for the unit tug wheels and torque multipliers. 2 guys hanging on the end and another watching the light and dial. Lol.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I bought a gearwrench whizbang digital torque/angle wrench. Supposedly good to +/- 2% and up to 250 ft-lbs, that's good enough for my purposes. I was able to torque my ARP crank bolt to 235 ft-lbs without any drama. I haven't actually used the angle feature yet.

My only complaint is it eats batteries and acts funky when the batteries get low.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Here is how I "afford" larger, eye watering purchases. I buy everything with cash so first I'm not wasting money paying someone else to use theirs. Secondly I try to pay for everything with a $10 or $20 bill. The change goes into my center console and I use that for extras. Third, every time that I step on the tool truck I ask what is the special of the week. Here is the hard part, I wait until after the sale is over and ask if they still have a bunch of xxxxx left. If they do I'll offer a bit less. For a truck that sells volume this works. Fourth, if there is something that I really want, I'll mention it to my truck guys. I bought my torque wrench at less than my dealers cost because he repossessed it from someone else and only charged me for the unpaid balance. I paid in cash from my center console fund and it didn't hurt a bit.

Chances are I won't live long enough to ruin my old one anyway.

Besides, I can't hide money from my wife. Even for Birthday/Christmas/Anniversary gifts for her.
Even if I could, she'd beat me until I started to like it and then she'd stop!

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'm trying to figure out how to get in good with our PMEL section at my current base so they can calibrate, or at least test my stuff. Ive got 2 older Crafstman USA made units. Have treated me well. Not sure I've really ever even used my 3/8s yet. They sat in the toolbox(at my dads) while I was living in Germany for 6 years.

Everything else you said is exactly what is required of us. I can't turn in a torque wrench unless its at its lowest setting. Right at the checkout counter there are fixtures like you mention. Our operating instruction says cycle them 6 times at their highest torque setting. For larger wrenches(over about 75ft/lbs), cycle them at the setting they highest setting you will use them for that day, 6 times.

Where do you think I learned all this? My side duties were managing the benchstock, toolroom, and PMEL program at our shop.