The Stupid Lift Questions Thread

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phule

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Agreed, did the coil spacer. Install was a PITA , alignments sucks ride was okay. Spindle lift is easier and maintain factory ride. Plus everyone goes bigger eventually.


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mackguy

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OK, here's my contribution to stupid questions thread..
I owned Jeep XJ's (my first and 2nd car) for a little over 10 years, and typically 2-3" lift was an easy deal, AAL or new leafs in back and coil spacers in front, pick your shocks and you're GTG..

When I look for a 3" lift for the Suburban I find $600 kits that include new A-arms, and a bunch of other stuff.. Now I know the Sub is IFS and so things like suspension geometry work differently, but is all that really necessary for 3" of lift?

Also, why don't even what I consider fairly expensive lift kits (6", $1k) include full rear springs? On the Jeeps you rarely saw AAL on anything taller than 3", after that you got new packs, and people always said you shouldn't do AAL on old packs anyway since they would be sagging, which would make the lift less effective AND wear out the AAL faster since the other leafs weren't up to par.

I'm thinking my suburban may be ready for new rear leafs at 203k miles, as I keep reading about "leveling" to raise the front to match the rear, but mine looks at best level, and at worst like the rear sags a little, and just seems a little low overall for a 4x4. Looks like GM has discontinued the rear leafs, though RockAuto had some listed, but they have 3 spring rates listed but show the same p/n for K1500 and K2500..

DAYTON 22905 Info
Rear; 4/1 = 5 Leaf, 2-5/8" Pack Thickness, 2200lb Per Spring Rating

$263.79
DAYTON 22907 Info
Rear; 5/1 = 6 Leaf, 3-7/16" Pack Thickness, 2760lb Per Spring Rating

$293.79
DAYTON 22907HD Info
Rear; HD Aftermarket, 7/1 = 8Leaf, 3-5/8" Pack Thickness, 3760lb Per Spring Rating

You must be registered for see images attach
 

thz71

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OK, here's my contribution to stupid questions thread..
I owned Jeep XJ's (my first and 2nd car) for a little over 10 years, and typically 2-3" lift was an easy deal, AAL or new leafs in back and coil spacers in front, pick your shocks and you're GTG..

When I look for a 3" lift for the Suburban I find $600 kits that include new A-arms, and a bunch of other stuff.. Now I know the Sub is IFS and so things like suspension geometry work differently, but is all that really necessary for 3" of lift?

Also, why don't even what I consider fairly expensive lift kits (6", $1k) include full rear springs? On the Jeeps you rarely saw AAL on anything taller than 3", after that you got new packs, and people always said you shouldn't do AAL on old packs anyway since they would be sagging, which would make the lift less effective AND wear out the AAL faster since the other leafs weren't up to par.

I'm thinking my suburban may be ready for new rear leafs at 203k miles, as I keep reading about "leveling" to raise the front to match the rear, but mine looks at best level, and at worst like the rear sags a little, and just seems a little low overall for a 4x4. Looks like GM has discontinued the rear leafs, though RockAuto had some listed, but they have 3 spring rates listed but show the same p/n for K1500 and K2500..

DAYTON 22905 Info
Rear; 4/1 = 5 Leaf, 2-5/8" Pack Thickness, 2200lb Per Spring Rating

$263.79
DAYTON 22907 Info
Rear; 5/1 = 6 Leaf, 3-7/16" Pack Thickness, 2760lb Per Spring Rating

$293.79
DAYTON 22907HD Info
Rear; HD Aftermarket, 7/1 = 8Leaf, 3-5/8" Pack Thickness, 3760lb Per Spring Rating

You must be registered for see images attach
Ifs trucks are just overall more expensive to lift than little solid axle jeeps. Cheapest way to get 3" is with a body lift. As for replacement spring packs go with the heaviest option if you're looking for lift and aren't worried about a harsher ride.
 

mackguy

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Yeah, guess it's just not going to work to lift it the way I'd like to. Would prefer to keep soft comfy ride for family hauling duties, just wanted a little more clearance.
Body lifts never look right to me, I guess let you do slightly larger tires, but don't inherently improve ground clearance etc..

Usually with the Jeeps lifting resulted in a softer ride, plus more suspension travel to soak up the rough stuff, and that's more what I was going for.

That said, does my picture above look like stock stance for a 4x4 Suburban, or does it seem low in the rear?
 

Stepside_fever95

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Yeah, guess it's just not going to work to lift it the way I'd like to. Would prefer to keep soft comfy ride for family hauling duties, just wanted a little more clearance.
Body lifts never look right to me, I guess let you do slightly larger tires, but don't inherently improve ground clearance etc..

Usually with the Jeeps lifting resulted in a softer ride, plus more suspension travel to soak up the rough stuff, and that's more what I was going for.

That said, does my picture above look like stock stance for a 4x4 Suburban, or does it seem low in the rear?
Mine sags a little too. I need new shocks, im sure thatll help.
 

df2x4

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Mine sags a little too. I need new shocks, im sure thatll help.

Probably not IMO... Shocks aren't really load-bearing in any sense. They're just there to stabilize the suspension during travel. If you've got sagging issues it's most likely either body bushings or springs.

EDIT - Side note, if you need springs (coil OR leaf) these are the guys to talk to. They'll even custom make lift or lowering springs for you.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/
 
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99Sierra

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white_trash88

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I have an early '99 Sierra GMT400, should I purchase the 95-98 Silverado/Sierra body lift kit from Zone off road? I'm wondering if the 99-00 kit is meant for the GMT800 as I'm pretty sure there aren't any '99 Silverado GMT400s.

95-98 kit:

http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-products-3in-body-lift-chevy-gmc-pickup/c9356

99-00 kit:

http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-products-3in-body-lift-chevy-gmc-pickup/c9355

Buy the 95-98. 99 was a carryover year from 98 so theyre the same, so the 95-98 will work
 
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