The Stupid Axle Questions Thread

[Jrgunn5150]

I've got a simply stupid question I haven't been able to find an answer to searching...

I recently got a great deal on a 1992 Chevrolet 3500 Dually. I'm changing all the fluids, so my question is....

What weight/type of gear oil for the differential in this truck? All I've been able to find online has been for the smaller trucks.

Thanks,
Rob

75w 140 is what I run in my big work trucks.

 

[rwrightphotography]

Ok cool. Do you use synthetic? And is any kind of additive required?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Ok cool. Do you use synthetic? And is any kind of additive required?

If you have a 14b, no additive. Synthetic is recommended. I use cheap Supertech from Walmart.

 

[rwrightphotography]

Yeah, it's a 14 bolt. Thanks for the info, looks like I'll be making a Wal Mart trip tomorrow.

 

[Martin Taylor]

N00b drum brake question here:

Where is the rear brake adjuster that needs to be loosened before the rear drum can come off?

on my 91 k1500 I had three rubber plugs on the back of the drum, two were the wear covers and the third was a little round black one, pulled off the two orange plugs, used a mirror and a light, saw the shoes and nothing else, pulled off the little black plug (just aft of the bleeder), did the same thing and saw either a rivet or a pin, but definitely nothing that I could get a screwdriver on. When I find it, what direction do I turn it to relieve tension? Or does my truck not have an automatic adjuster (not required until 94ish my truck is a 91)? If not, how do I pry the drum past the groove that the shoes would have worn into it without breaking anything?

Thanks in advance.

 

[east302]

It sounds like you have the 10" drums. Those didn't have the opening for turning the adjuster.

You can try tapping on the drum face and sides with a mallet or hammer to see if you can knock it loose but, yeah, they can be a pain. If you pry on the edges, be careful that you don't bend the backing plate.

The holes in the back should line up with the shoes if memory serves. You can try pushing against them with a screwdriver to see if you can loosen them up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Martin Taylor]

It sounds like you have the 10" drums. Those didn't have the opening for turning the adjuster.

You can try tapping on the drum face and sides with a mallet or hammer to see if you can knock it loose but, yeah, they can be a pain. If you pry on the edges, be careful that you don't bend the backing plate.

The holes in the back should line up with the shoes if memory serves. You can try pushing against them with a screwdriver to see if you can loosen them up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

 

[thz71]

Should slide off no need to mess with an adjuster if there even is one.

 

[eluwak]

Ok, more questions...

I think I have just about everything I need to replace my front brakes. Reading the service manual it shows the use of a puller to remove the disc from the spindle (2WD). These things are much bigger than the pullers I have. Are there any shade-tree tips on doing this that doesn't involve some ridiculously priced tool? I'm assuming that it wont just come off when the nut does.

I had originally planned to reuse my bearings, but they seem to be cheap enough that maybe I should replace them too while the rotor is off. Is that wise or unnecessary? The manual doesn't mention it...

What size is the nut holding this thing together anyway? I would have thought the manual would have indicated. Rockauto shows it as 30mm, but I've seen it be wrong before.

Now the biggie... I'm doing hoses and calipers because it looks like someone JB-welded one of the holes where the bleeder is supposed to go. Since I can't drain the fluid out first, how bad does it run out of the hose when I loosen it from the caliper? It's my first time dealing with the fluid. Normally on cars I just replace pads, rotors, drums, HW, and let the shop flush it all when I'm done.

 

[east302]

Mine is a 4x4 so I can't help on the rotor and bearings, but would think that replacing them with new bearings would seem reasonable since you have them all apart.

On the caliper and hoses, go ahead and bolt the new hose and crush washer to the new caliper. The caliper should come with a new copper crush washer. Remove the old hose where it connects to the hard line and pull it and the old caliper out as one piece. Connect the new hose with caliper already attached and you're good. It will drip a fair amount but really isn't anything too bad. Just have some rags handy.

Use a line wrench on the brake line fittings to help avoid rounding off the bolt head.

Edit: Don't forget to check YouTube, there are usually videos that people have done showing repairs. It can come in handy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk