Street/drag build

[TKerr]

I have a 1999 k2500 crewcab 4x4 original 454/4l80e combo. I want to build it into a turbo street/drag truck. This is purely a build idea list at the moment but I do plan on buying the turbo in the next month or so. Okay so starting with the engine. It’ll be a standard bore standard deck gen VI 454 with a scat complete forged rotating assembly, Merlin 320cc heads with 2.3 intake/1.88 exhaust valves and 119 cc chambers o ringed to the block. Lunati custom cam for the turbo and valvetrain with comp cams 1.7 full roller rockers. Edelbrock pro flo manifold (p/n 71363). I plan to use a megasquirt 3 stand-alone ecu. The turbo is gonna be a single BorgWarners500sx t6 flange 88/99 .085 ar, boosted to around 22-24 psi. The Transmisson is gonna be a built 4l80e manual valve body with trans brake. As for the transfer case that is one spot I do need genuine help in, how much horsepower can a np241 handle and is there any way to beef it up? Also does anyone have info on swapping a np242 into these? The fuel system is gonna be a aeromotive fuel cell with the eliminator pump running e85 through a -10an line to a t into 2 -8an lines to each fuel rail. Rear suspension is gonna be a trailing arm 4 link with a ballistic fab trussed 14 bolt and the front suspension is gonna be rebuilt stock suspension with custom dom tie rods and rcv axles. Possible coil over conversion for the front. I’m also thinking of running 295/65r15 mickey thompson Et r’s. Can they handle the weight? Will they be able to hook? I plan on pushing 1200hp on the strip and try to hit around 10’s. Interior will be 4 Corbeau seats 2 front 2 rear all 5 point harnesses and a rollcage. This is all purely idea and I haven’t even started yet and by no means will be done soon. I’d like to get anyone’s input on any part of this and see what everyone thinks?

Also just some advice, you will want to consider running dual pumps and dual injection going over 1000hp. Run a dual fuel table in the tune to bring in the other pump and injectors under boost. You can not shut the PW on the injectors you will need for 1200hp enough and you will bend connecting rods because it will hydro lock the engine on startup. (Unfortunately yes this is another lesson learned the hard way. And an expensive one to boot)

 

[Christian Steffen]

Also just some advice, you will want to consider running dual pumps and dual injection going over 1000hp. Run a dual fuel table in the tune to bring in the other pump and injectors under boost. You can not shut the PW on the injectors you will need for 1200hp enough and you will bend connecting rods because it will hydro lock the engine on startup. (Unfortunately yes this is another lesson learned the hard way. And an expensive one to boot)

I think he's back off on his power goals (at least initially). At any rate that is crazy, never thought of that about the injectors.

 

[Jaredpear]

If I was throwing this much to it I would build and beef the 241. If I was going to do a swap then I personally would go for an Atlas Transfer case for the money.
I can tell you from experience the transfer case would be less of o concern than the front end. I know from experience if you launch in 4wd on an IFS at a dragstrip it will not last or hold up.
From experience I had a 2005 with a built duramax and allison transmission pushing almost 1000 rwhp and I could not keep an IFS to hold up. I separated three front differentials and cracked one from a dig when launching. Countless bent, broken, and twisted CV axles.
Just an opinion, but I would do a solid axle swap. But that is just my opinion from past experience.
I am building a 600+ N/A engine for my truck and am going to keep the 1997 transfer case and beef it up.

Oh yeah those power goals are farrrrrr away, For now it’s just an s475 on a bone stock gen 6 454. Ford Dana 60 solid axle sitting in the garage and then converting for the 4l80e to manual shift for now in that order. Shooting for 500-550 crank right now.
Also for the whole front end thing, your absolutely right, after putting a lot of time thinking about it and coming across a cheap one I decided solid axle was the only thing to handle the power. Most cv’s can’t even handle stock power haha.
Also an update for the whole build is on engine and performance as “turbo build” start on page 5. I’m custom building a turbo manifold right now and trying to get my hands on a tube notcher so waiting on that.

 

[TKerr]

I think he's back off on his power goals (at least initially). At any rate that is crazy, never thought of that about the injectors.

It is crazy and who would think you could been forged rods. I am also fortunate because I have one of the best engine builders I found by accident. He has built and raced NHRA cars, craftsmen NASCAR trucks, and help right the rule book on engines for dirt track.
Anyways he had a guy do the same thing, only worse when he built a 1300hp engine and used 160# injectors and bent all 8 connector rods on start up on a virtually indestructible forge rod because of the same issue.
I am just glad to hear I was not the only moron to learn this the hard way .

 

[TKerr]

Oh yeah those power goals are farrrrrr away, For now it’s just an s475 on a bone stock gen 6 454. Ford Dana 60 solid axle sitting in the garage and then converting for the 4l80e to manual shift for now in that order. Shooting for 500-550 crank right now.
Also for the whole front end thing, your absolutely right, after putting a lot of time thinking about it and coming across a cheap one I decided solid axle was the only thing to handle the power. Most cv’s can’t even handle stock power haha.
Also an update for the whole build is on engine and performance as “turbo build” start on page 5. I’m custom building a turbo manifold right now and trying to get my hands on a tube notcher so waiting on that.

 

[TKerr]

Oh yeah those power goals are farrrrrr away, For now it’s just an s475 on a bone stock gen 6 454. Ford Dana 60 solid axle sitting in the garage and then converting for the 4l80e to manual shift for now in that order. Shooting for 500-550 crank right now.
Also for the whole front end thing, your absolutely right, after putting a lot of time thinking about it and coming across a cheap one I decided solid axle was the only thing to handle the power. Most cv’s can’t even handle stock power haha.
Also an update for the whole build is on engine and performance as “turbo build” start on page 5. I’m custom building a turbo manifold right now and trying to get my hands on a tube notcher so waiting on that.

Two good notes here.
First is in 2004 I built a 1993 suburban 3/4 ton (with the help of guys way smarter than me) that weighed in at 9100lbs and still had full function rear and front A/C and turned in high 12's
Second, if patient's and time allows I am in the process of building a 509 (502 bored .30) GenVI with rectangular 454 heads. I will be writing a build post on it. Right now the block is at the engine shop and I am doing my do diligence on researching and obtaining the parts and it will be going in "Thunder". So it will give you an idea of another direction to go.
Word of advice, keep the 4l80e versus going with a 5 speed.
I will also be putting in the 502 post how to get a good cheap 502 built. I have a steel forged rotating assembly and the entire long block build is going to cost around 4k with 600+ hp.

 

[Christian Steffen]

Two good notes here.
First is in 2004 I built a 1993 suburban 3/4 ton (with the help of guys way smarter than me) that weighed in at 9100lbs and still had full function rear and front A/C and turned in high 12's
Second, if patient's and time allows I am in the process of building a 509 (502 bored .30) GenVI with rectangular 454 heads. I will be writing a build post on it. Right now the block is at the engine shop and I am doing my do diligence on researching and obtaining the parts and it will be going in "Thunder". So it will give you an idea of another direction to go.
Word of advice, keep the 4l80e versus going with a 5 speed.
I will also be putting in the 502 post how to get a good cheap 502 built. I have a steel forged rotating assembly and the entire long block build is going to cost around 4k with 600+ hp.

600 hp for 4k?? Definitely interested to hear the recipe.