Starter interchange

[What?]

Thanks to this thread, I went to try this out using the 1999 Silverado 4.3, compared to my 1997 (http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?25849-1997-W-T)

Lo and Behold. Fits like it's meant to be. According to my hearing people, no grind, whine, and sounds great at every start up.

Cost $60 more than the original.

 

[camaroman101]

Wow, didn't know how much smaller it was.

 

[Ironhead]

Ought to make it easier to install headers, plus it would obviously be easier to manhandle in and out of the truck if you have to do a starter change.

 

[DIY_Engineer]

Hello, this may be well known, but I thought I would post it anyway. This applies to small block v-8 model's. The 88-94 chevy/GMC still used the same large starter that had used since the early 70's, well if you are looking to upgrade to the 95-98's smaller but more powerful gear reduction starter or needing a replacement starter for your 95-98 chevy/gmc, you can use the starter from a 99 up nbs with a 4.3. .

Thank you for the info. I was able to put on a starter from a 2001 Chevy S10 V6 4.3L onto my 1992 K1500 V8 5.7L 350. A word of wisdom, the starter bolts from the S10 didn't fir as they were a slightly different thread. The original starter bolts did fit but were slightly too long, about 1/2 inch or less. I had to use some thick washers and a lock washer to cover the gap. The pattern was exactly the same though. The second thing is to make sure if you pull a newer starter, to grab the nuts that go onto the electrical connections as those nuts are hard to find and are different from the original starter nuts. This fixed my starter issue right away. Still a weird feeling when I start my truck because it has the little pickup starting sound followed by the roar of my V8. I was able to pick up from a local junkyard for $30. Thanks again.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Ought to make it easier to install headers, plus it would obviously be easier to manhandle in and out of the truck if you have to do a starter change.

Yes the little starter is heavy enough, especially if you have to stab it in multiple times or it's hard to get the bolts started!

 

[stutaeng]

I think I mentioned on another thread that the 4.3 is a SBC-based engine. Well it basically IS a SBC missing 2 cylinders. Anyway, I can't remember who corrected me and said the 4.3 was not a SBC.

And even though the SBC was considered phased out by '03 in the Express vans, the 4.3 carried over, marching along with the Gen 3 & 4 LS engines. It wasn't until Gen 5 that the 4.3 was redesigned and called Ecotec.

My 2000 k3500 had a starter go out and I just replaced on my NBS 99 Silverado 4.3. I check online, and sure enough, they were the same. But I didn't want to mess with swapping it over, so just got a manufactured one from the parts store.

It's easy enough on the 2wd, but not as easy on the 4x4s.

They are not inexpensive, and if you are on a budget a 4.3 from junkyard will save you some coin. I suppose up until 2014 will bolt to SBC.

Heck, I've seen perfect little 4.3s for $200 from guys doing LS swaps.

 

[Schurkey]

Reviving older thread but was wondering if anyone knows of a similar interchange from an NBS that would match a 1997 7.4L?

Same starter as 5.7L and 4.3L; provided you have the same "diagonal" bolt pattern.

the starter bolts from the S10 didn't fir as they were a slightly different thread. The original starter bolts did fit but were slightly too long, about 1/2 inch or less. I had to use some thick washers and a lock washer to cover the gap.

YOU HAVE THE WRONG STARTER BOLTS. The shank diameter is WRONG. This can cause DAMAGE.

The "Mini" starters have metric-sized bolt holes, larger than the 3/8 bolt holes of the older, huge "10MT" starter motors.

Since the hole in the block is the same recessed 3/8-16 SAE thread, the correct bolts have a STEPPED SHANK. The main part of the bolt is larger, to fit the larger holes in the starter nose, then necks-down to a smaller diameter knurl and threaded section to fit the smaller holes in the engine block.

Photo 1. GM mini-starter bolts on top, ARP mini-starter bolts still in package.

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Photo 2. Stepped knurl of GM bolts. Good design.

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Photo 3. Stepped shank of ARP bolts. Not as good design. Knurl is loose in starter motor, but at least the shank is correct, larger diameter.

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Photo 4. 10MT vs. PG260 starters, both with "diagonal" bolt pattern for large 168-tooth flywheel. 153-tooth flywheel uses "straight-across" bolt pattern starter nose.

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For the record, while ARP makes good quality bolts...for this application I believe they're incorrectly designed. The knurl is too small to locate the starter motor. The knurl has to be stepped, so it's tight in the starter AND tight in the block. Buy the GM bolts. The GM bolts are also less expensive.

There's a similar "short" bolt for the engines with the small flywheel and the one-long-one-short starter bolts. I don't remember the part number, but it's in the bulletin linked-to, below.

Remy's TSB for starter motor upgrade:
https://images.carid.com/remy/starting-and-charging/pdf/remy-feb2016-web-technical-bulletin.pdf

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Same starter as 5.7L and 4.3L; provided you have the same "diagonal" bolt pattern.


YOU HAVE THE WRONG STARTER BOLTS. The shank diameter is WRONG. This can cause DAMAGE.

The "Mini" starters have metric-sized bolt holes, larger than the 3/8 bolt holes of the older, huge "10MT" starter motors.

Since the hole in the block is the same recessed 3/8-16 SAE thread, the correct bolts have a STEPPED SHANK. The main part of the bolt is larger, to fit the larger holes in the starter nose, then necks-down to a smaller diameter knurl and threaded section to fit the smaller holes in the engine block.

Photo 1. GM mini-starter bolts on top, ARP mini-starter bolts still in package.

You must be registered for see images attach

Photo 2. Stepped knurl of GM bolts. Good design.

You must be registered for see images attach

Photo 3. Stepped shank of ARP bolts. Not as good design. Knurl is loose in starter motor, but at least the shank is correct, larger diameter.

You must be registered for see images attach

Photo 4. 10MT vs. PG260 starters, both with "diagonal" bolt pattern for large 168-tooth flywheel. 153-tooth flywheel uses "straight-across" bolt pattern starter nose.

You must be registered for see images attach

For the record, while ARP makes good quality bolts...for this application I believe they're incorrectly designed. The knurl is too small to locate the starter motor. The knurl has to be stepped, so it's tight in the starter AND tight in the block. Buy the GM bolts. The GM bolts are also less expensive.

There's a similar "short" bolt for the engines with the small flywheel and the one-long-one-short starter bolts. I don't remember the part number, but it's in the bulletin linked-to, below.

Remy's TSB for starter motor upgrade:
https://images.carid.com/remy/starting-and-charging/pdf/remy-feb2016-web-technical-bulletin.pdf

And the starter bolts are commonly bent on older vehicles. Run into this on many of our vehicles. Like you said, best to replace with the GM new replacements for best performance. Bent bolts don't go in or torque properly, and that's a good way to break the end housing, damage the starter, or even mess up the threads in the block.
Good catch on the bolt pattern. All chevys are not the same. Used to run into this in the parts store days. Back in the late 70s when GM was starting (pun intended! ) into the engine swapping thing.
Also good to know what the difference between the Chevy starter patterns is related to. Thanks!