Southern Pride's Official Build Thread

[Mean Green]

Check out this BS bro

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This is my passenger side paint from 95 that I freaking compounded and waxed today. In the shade in the daylight it looks "good" but I want all these swirls and scratches gone. This is just from years and years of me drying my truck with a towel I guess. I'm guessing this compound and wax I used today isn't abrasive enough...I really need to figure out wtf to do I'm so confused. Essentially all of my 95 paint looks like that I want to get this fixed asap. This next weekend I want to get it all done.

and yeah that thing you posted is essentially the same as the buffer I got. I'm thinking I need a more abrasive product and maybe another buffer nono that actually spins but I sure hope not. I don't mind buying better product but I don't wanna have to buy a $120 porter cable thing.

If you use a 3M anti-swirl, with your buffer, you will be able to get alot of those swirls out. You should be able to get by using the orbital buffer you bought, but there is a BIG difference in buffers. Especially with variable speed, because you'll find that certain applications require different speeds. I have a black & Decker variable speed buffer and a FLEX variable speed buffer. The FLEX is leaps and bounds better then the the black & decker.
1. Start by washing the truck completely
2. Using a wool pad, use the appropriate Buffing Compound, after going over the entire body (or desired pannels) wash the truck again to get any of the excess compound splatter off
3. Using a foam pad on your buffer, use the 3M anti-swirl glaze (Part # 39809 IIRC) and go over the body again. You'll find once your finished that you will very few swirl marks left.
The back to black stuff you see in the auto parts stores is honestly a joke, if you know what your doing you'll get next to perfect results using the method i described! Hope this helps a bit for ya man!

 

[Southern Pride]

I hope that does work!!! Now the wool pad I'm confused about. Are you saying wash the truck and then use the wool pad to remove excess compound?

Also should I wash the truck with dish soap to remove the waxes I've put on today?

Also my buffer comes with terry cloth and microfiber "bonnets" that you slip over the head....soo are you fimiliar with if I even can buy a foam pad for it and attach it somehow? I'll definitely try this next. If I don't get them all out with the 3m the first time should I do it again? Then use my compound and wax like I did today? I also have some polish...the compound and polish are both the same meguiars ultimate series but I just had those few questions and get everything in the right order and I'll do it and be sure to post my results..


Also do I have to use the claybar first? Thanks alot meangreen

 

[Mean Green]

I hope that does work!!! Now the wool pad I'm confused about. Are you saying wash the truck and then use the wool pad to remove excess compound?

Also should I wash the truck with dish soap to remove the waxes I've put on today?

Also my buffer comes with terry cloth and microfiber "bonnets" that you slip over the head....soo are you fimiliar with if I even can buy a foam pad for it and attach it somehow? I'll definitely try this next. If I don't get them all out with the 3m the first time should I do it again? Then use my compound and wax like I did today? I also have some polish...the compound and polish are both the same meguiars ultimate series but I just had those few questions and get everything in the right order and I'll do it and be sure to post my results..


Also do I have to use the claybar first? Thanks alot meangreen

Alright, sorry for the confusion! Your going to want to use a wool pad on the buffer with the compound. Then just wash the truck after to get rid of any excess compound that the buffer will throw. And yes, dish soap is honeslty about the best car soap there is lol Just don't use any fancy dish soap that has the additives in, regular old dawn works great. As far as the pads available for your buffer, I don't honestly know. I've never owned a orbital buffer. Your going to want to use a wool pad though, that is a rather important factor in the finished result. If you do it right, you should not have to do the 3M glaze more then once. You should have a near perfect outcome if done right and the paint is good enough. Be sure to do the compond BEFORE the glaze or you'll be working against yourself. The Meguiars Ultimate is a great product also! You can finish it off with that if you fell it's needed, but honestly it probably won't be if you get the method down and figured out Griffin! I have a few pics I'll try and find of a black F150 that came into the shop for a full detail a few weeks back that will show you the before and after of doing the steps i outlined. If you have anyother questions, feel free to ask man!

 

[Mean Green]

Here's what the truck looked like when it came in (FULL of swirls):

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After full exterior detail (Sorry I don't have any close ups, but you can see how clear the reflections are with zero swirls):

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[Southern Pride]

Oh yes that looks killer. As always tho I do get a bit confused on the steps. It's late and I gotta pass out but tmrw we shall resume! Thanks alot for the help man and that F150 is what I want mine to hopefully look like but it is fixable right? Like is it possible to just have too many swirls and too bad of paint? I hope mines is do able.

 

[truckintim05]

Most all paint is fixable. Most people dont believe that my truck has the original paint on it, until they see all the dents. On really bad paint I do it like this:

1.Wash with dawn to remove any old waxes, etc.
2. Dry
3. Clay bar - even if you're going to wetsand, and buff. Use quick detailer as your lube, and keep the clay moist. Do NOT drop the clay bar, it'll pick up rocks and contaminants and destroy your paint.
4. Deep, deep scratches need touch up paint. lay it on as thin as possible, but still higher than the level of the clear coat.
5. Wetsanding. You would be really surprised by how much sanding you can do on factory paint before going through the clear. I wetsand all panels. There is a lot of orange peel in paint, and if you want that glass like appearance, it's gotta be done. Surface scratches require extra wetsanding. I also sand all extra touch up paint off of chips and scratches to make all the paint level again. You'll be blown away what you can do with touch up paint and wetsanding. Difficult areas require 1500, but 2000 does most panels. Any area that you use 1500 on, make sure you follow with 2000.
6.Compound on a good buffer. I used a porter cable, and I LOVE it. The random action ensures that you won't burn through the clear like a plain orbital. Use either wool pad or foam pads made for the job. I use Lake County foam pads. I also use Meguiars "Professional Mirror Glaze" Medium cut cleaner compound. Move the buffer slowly, while applying slight pressure, horizontally, then vertically, then repeat. Dont worry about burning through the clear. It wont happen, especially with the buffer you have. Go slow, be patient. There is really no need to clean all the compound off before moving on, as you're only going to get more compound on it again.
7. Swirl remover on buffer. I then use a less abrasive pad and compound. Also using meguires products here. The first compound will leave the paint looking dull and hazy. The swirl remover will begin to shine the paint more. Use the same methods as above, and go slowly. To check my work I spray a little quick detailer and wipe with a microfiber.
8. Polish. also use meguires here. same methods as above, but less abrasive pad again. This is where your paint will really start to pop. it should look brand new by now. If you still see swirl marks in the sun, then you skimped on one of the steps, most likely the wetsanding, or the first compound.
9.Sealant, or wax.

Clean residual compounds and waxes with a quick spray detailer. This isn't for the faint of heart. You really need to commit to finish it all. I still havn't finished my truck, the entire drivers side still needs to be done. Can't wait for this heat to die down a little.

 

[Southern Pride]

Dude I just typed out all this **** thanking you I hit submit and the connection was "reset" I hate when that happens. Anyway, thanks a ton this is exactly what I need to know. I can tell the wetsanding and the whole 9 will really have an impact but I will have a few questions after I go back and analyze it all and get familiar with it if that's okay.

On the touchup paint you just dab it on till it covers the chip and then not worry about it until wetsanding?

Also the last thing when you talk about removing the residual is there alot more to it than just wiping it down again good? I didn't understand why it's not for the faint of heart.

Anyway, I cannot thank you enough. I plan on doing this this weekend. Maybe I should just start with 1 panel like my passenger side fender and do the whole process to make sure I'm doing it perfect.

 

[96k1500]

Any updates on this beast Griffin?

 

[Southern Pride]

Mmmm nothing worth mentioning. My injector spacer came in last week still need to get that on. I tried to remove the 3 star bit screws that holds the injector on but (what I think) are fuel lines at the back of the TB are keeping me from lifting it up enough to get the spacer in. It sucks too cuz I need just a little more room. Pretty sure those metal lines at the back of the TB are fuel lines, not sure though.

Other than that I got a real CAI on the way, and I'll be doing another full on detail over the weekend. No other big plans other than some 20's with who knows what size tire, and a LS motor.

The short list of things coming up are
fender flares
temp/compass mirror
maybe remove molding and painted rockers? Who knows.

 

[TylerZ281500]

your putting an LS in it? for molding since you dont have a fiberglass bed use a plastic scraper and laqcuer thinner, it surprisingly doesnt take off paint or scratch it that much. but thats for the left over tape to get the moldings off, pick a warm day and use fishing line and saw it off. youll use alot of line because it likes to snap.