Skee's 97 Stepside SAS Thread

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AirmanSkee

'MURICA... NUFF SAID
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This weekend I have good weather and since the budgets cut our snow removal operations (In Alaska, go figure... Thanks Obama) I do not have to work or have the slight chance of being called in. SO, on that note, progress should be made on the SAS. I have called on the club for help to get it finished, so should have a good group of hands and tools to try to get it done.

I'll keep everyone posted with updates on the full build thread, and of course, will update this thread with more of the in depth write ups as I go.

Cheers,

Skee
 

thz71

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Awesome cant wait to see progress im trying to learn all i can about SAS
 

AirmanSkee

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Welp, got my hands on a fairly new tie rod from a 1990 V2500 Burb (which was normally tie rod up, my knuckles are tie rod down.) But It works for me! Flipped it over and the taper is right. Going to need adjusted for alignment, but suits my needs for now.

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Also, picked up the full steering setup from a HMMWV with brand new joints, so might pull those to use for my custom build tie rod when that comes along.

Started clearancing the calipers for the 15" rims (lines were marked previously. Had to get more discs.) Ended up removing ~1/8" of material from the back side of the caliper, but mainly from the bottom. The top didn't NEED clearanced, but I did it anyways.

If you are doing this, TAKE YOUR TIME. Do NOT overheat the metal, as it will ruin the caliper. Work in small increments and in different spots to keep it cool.

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Wheel fully seated, spinning freely with no clearance issues.

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This is as far as I had to clearance in, from top to bottom of the caliper. Just made a line with the grinder, and slowly made passes back and forth.

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Then I removed the stabilizer, since I won't be us

60CC74ED-8C18-486C-B552-02FAFC14DED1_zps

Here are the caps for the front. Look great with the black wheels, and also pop open to use the locking hubs. Obviously they will be put in from the backside of the wheel.

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Then got the spring plates drilled for the center pin, and mounted the springs. Took some work but turned out fine. They are just hand tight, will allow for adjustments when under the truck, then be torqued down.

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Also removed both side mounts for the original shocks, and the mount for the stock stabilizer. Just sawzalled as close to the axle as possible and took the grinding disc to clean it up. Hit with a quick spray of the paint to keep it clean. (Sorry no pics of that, phone memory was too full! Will have to clean it up some tonight.)
 

AirmanSkee

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It is time... FINALLY. Got a loaner truck to use while my truck is on the stands. Also warming up so I can get the motorcycle out to get around while my truck has no wheels on it.

This is the last post you will see with my truck and IFS!

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It was definitely time to fix it.

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Starting the teardown of the IFS. This will differ from truck to truck, depending on model/lift/etc. The IFS lift is sold, so I had to save those parts. I took it off in "chunks" as best I could, saving alot of wrenching. Relatively simple process. Just start unbolting everything that is not going to be on the solid axle. This is a rough checklist of how I did mine.

-Remove wheels
-Remove Calipers, ziptie up out of the way
-Relieve tension on torsion bars (loosen keys as much as possible, place jack under LCA to hold the weight and relieve the tension)
-Unbolt upper and lower control arms from lift brackets
-Remove (6) bolts on the CV shaft attaching to the diff
-Separate tie rod from knuckle/linkage
-Drop hub assembly with UCA and LCA, knocking loose the torsion bar and key.
-Remove (4) bolts holding the UCA drop bracket, and removing bushing sleeves from frame holes (I am reusing the front hole bushing for my shock hoops).
-Repeat on other side.
-Using a jack to support the diff, remove the bolts holding it into the cradle, and remove breather and diff actuator (will be ziptied up into the frame rail to keep lights from flashing)
-Drop diff, throw it in the trash. Its worthless lol
-Remove (6) bolts holding front cradle to frame

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Then came the steering linkage for the lift. Bent 3 forks trying to disconnect the pitman/idler from the linkage, so unbolted the whole idler bracket, and sawzalled the pitman in half.

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Next step was changing the pitman. Everything says you need to disconnect lines and completely remove the box but I didn't wanna have to rebleed the system. Problem solved. Unbolted the box from the frame, pushed it back far enough to get the socket on and voila!

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It takes a 34mm socket (for mine) hit with an impact and it comes right off. Then using a pitman arm puller, swapped over the crap one I had for the lift 1104 pitman arm.

The box is held on with 3 long bolts through the frame. These are also sleeved.

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Then started on the rear hangers for the springs. Turns out with the stock Z71 cats in their place, I have to move/relocate them.

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Then using clamps/vices, place the bracket where needed. Mark, center punch, and drill out the holes.

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You do not need to use every hole in the bracket. Its mean to be able to work on many trucks.

Then I swapped over the front two tires onto the new rims. They look AWESOME.

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Then we got the plasma over and working. Time to hit the point of no return.

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After grinding on this for a LONG time, I changed to a more aggressive disc to take off the IFS brackets.

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Then mounted up the shock hoops. They bolt on either side into the existing frame holes, using the sleeves to keep from crushing the frame.

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Drag link is going to be way too long. Either needing to cut and retap the leftovers, or cut out the threaded piece, section what is needed, and then weld/sleeve the DOM back together.

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On that note, I called it a day. The bushings are too thick in the leafs to work for my usage. Tried cutting them down and it looked horrible. Also got my hands on some new front shocks, to run one large single instead of duals.
 
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94Cheyenne

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That is awesome If i had a 4wd gmt400 i would totally do a sas. yours being a scss is just icing on the cake.

Sub'ed for more awesome progress. Cheers!
 

thz71

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That is awesome If i had a 4wd gmt400 i would totally do a sas. yours being a scss is just icing on the cake.

Sub'ed for more awesome progress. Cheers!

You can SAS a 2wd!
 

phule

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That is awesome If i had a 4wd gmt400 i would totally do a sas. yours being a scss is just icing on the cake.

Sub'ed for more awesome progress. Cheers!

Ord ( I think) makes a bolt in kit for that.

Adam
I Hate small phones & fat fingers
 
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