Rusted out 92 k1500 rcsb. Need Advice.

[man-a-fre]

I just scrapped a k1500 1993 ecsb z71 here in the rust belt that i have had since 80k had 507k when I had to give up a few days ago.Anyways the rear frame looked just like yours the trans cross member had rust holes and the gas tank bracket was almost rusted completely off along with rear spring mounts.I realize it's a rcsb but i would run, it's a parts truck needs all new brakelines and fuel lines gas tank on and on.On the plus side it is a very nice color combo which I believe is pretty rare . That truck was an awesome order new for sure.

 

[92chevySB]

Alright guys, thanks for the responses. I'm going to poke around the frame and see how it holds up. If it's good I'll start sourcing some parts and try to put together a budget. Hopefully in the end I will be able to restore it to its former glory.

 

[92chevySB]

I just scrapped a k1500 1993 ecsb z71 here in the rust belt that i have had since 80k had 507k when I had to give up a few days ago.Anyways the rear frame looked just like yours the trans cross member had rust holes and the gas tank bracket was almost rusted completely off along with rear spring mounts.I realize it's a rcsb but i would run, it's a parts truck needs all new brakelines and fuel lines gas tank on and on.On the plus side it is a very nice color combo which I believe is pretty rare . That truck was an awesome order new for sure.

Does it even qualify as a parts trucks if everything needs to be replaced lol.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Does it even qualify as a parts trucks if everything needs to be replaced lol.

Oh yeah. If you get another truck, you'll grow an eagle eye and begin picking things off of that one you never took a second glance at before. Trim, fan shroud, hood hinges, seat belt buckles ect ect. There still looks to be plenty of salvageable stuff on that rig. Shame about all the rust, looks too far gone for even me. Like another said, awesome and rare color combo including ***** red interior , made even more rare by being a regular cab short box 4x4. If it was a manual trans, it would be a unicorn.

 

[Cheap Heap]

Thats a tough one.

RCSB Deluxe two-tone Z71 is tempting. It's too much rust for me though. You're pretty much going to need to buy a complete truck for parts to fix this one, you may be better off poking around for another truck first.

Do you already own this truck or this is something you're considering purchasing?

 

[92chevySB]

Thats a tough one.

RCSB Deluxe two-tone Z71 is tempting. It's too much rust for me though. You're pretty much going to need to buy a complete truck for parts to fix this one, you may be better off poking around for another truck first.

Do you already own this truck or this is something you're considering purchasing?

Already own it.

 

[92chevySB]

Well I hit the frame with a chipping hammer from where I could reach and everything felt solid. Going to have to fill the tires up and drag it out of there so I can test more of the frame but so far so good.

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

Unless it’s a very rare model with rare options I personally don’t feel the money you will have to put in a project will be worth it in the long run. The reason I say this is because there are thousands of projects languishing in garages everywhere. All waiting fir the owner to get more money together to finish. Rust repairs are one of the most expensive endeavors on a project and the most costly overall because repairing the rusted patch is just the beginning of the cost.
Unless it’s a emotional attachment vehicle that you plan on taking to your grave, there are thousands of better models out there for you to purchase.

The only way I would take that truck is if it was free or less than $100 and I just needed parts for another project. I wouldn’t waste my money trying to resurrect that Phoenix.

 

[Frank Compagnon]

Get a chipping hammer used for welding and whack every part you are thinking might make or break the idea.
Holes in the frame or structure pretty much tells the story. They tend to rot from the inside out.
Dont worry about the bed, doors, fenders. They are shot.
See if the cab is salvagable.
Wear safety glasses and a face shield when you do it.
Even a speck of rust in your eye can screw you up bad.
I assume you are somewhere plains or eastern Canada based on the rust.
Take a look at some west Canada trucks and see if you can find one in better shape but blown up.
It might be cheaper to take the 6 days needed to drive across Canada instead of fixing that one.
Even if the frame can be saved.
As mentioned by others, you need to replace the brake lines and master cylinder and booster and fuel lines and the fuel tank.
Just to be even somewhat safe.
Okay, so much for the official disclaimer.
Chip hammer the frame to make sure it wont snap in half. Be very sure of this.
See if you can get it to start and run off of a boat tank.
Do not no matter how tempting do not try to pull fuel out of the factory tank.
Hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. dont trust the dash gauge, they are crap.
Dont trust the dash temp gauge either.
get a cheap ass infrared or "laser" thermometer.
Keep an eye on the head temps hose temps manifold temps exhaust temps individual cylinder temps etc...
A lot people try to fire old crusty engines with plain water in the radiator and get all shocked and surprised when the water pump fails and the rad blows and they pop a head gasket.
They will smoke a thousand dollars of repairs to save 15 bucks on anti-freeze.
Spend the 15 bucks. It may blow and make a mess, but it also changes the boiling point of water and lubricates the system.
Steam is the cause of these problems
Normally I would pull the thermostat but it is really common for the t stat housing bolts to shear off so I only try this when the thermostat is obviously not opening.
And I beat the snot out the housing first with a deadblow hammer.
Then, if all that works out?
Check thd trans fluid and see if it will drive.
If you can get it to run and idle without overheating and knocking and all the other engine death noises?
Thats an 800 dollar engine up here.
at least.
If it isnt going to kill you.
I would fire that ***** up and see if it moves and see if it drives and runs..
Light that ****** up and drive it out of its grave brother.
You can do it!

A short box extended cab frame can be shortened to a short box frame for that truck. I did a shorty last year and had to weld a couple of rust holes. Yours don’t look too bad. If it don’t have holes in it I would sand blast, rust proof and paint it, good to go

 

[David G]

Your truck could look like this!!! Yes--I just restored this exact truck. It was a lot of work--took me seven months and $7K but it was all worth it. I watched a LOT of videos on youtube. I have many photos of the entire process and a handful of videos so I documented the entire process. My truck turned out so well, it will be on display for several weeks at Summit Racing showroom floor on their rotating platform in McDonough, GA sometime near the end of the year. Today, I still drive it and pull my boat but I don't take it off-road anymore. It is a show-truck now. If you are interested, PM me and we can talk. The one caveat with your resto is my truck was not near as worn and rusted. The frame only had slight surface rust on it and I had no rust on the body since my is a southern truck. I simply grinded the entire frame/suspension and repainted it. Yours will require extensive sheet-metal fabrication or panel replacement which will require welding and a certain level of body work. Anyway--e-mail me at [email protected] if you are interested in continuing with the project. I do love that regular cab and I think as long as the frame is solid, she could be restored to any level you desire.

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