So your still going to roll with those rotors?I completely agree
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So your still going to roll with those rotors?I completely agree
??So you’re still going to roll with those rotors?
I totally understand trying to cut back cost however, safety is first. Can you bring the rotors down to a machine shop and see if they are able to turn them?
Sure sounded like it, but I guess I misread.I completely agree I’m not rushing cause whatever I do I want it to be the best thing for the truck.
The calipers became a concern of mine upon taking them off. The bolts after unscrewed were quite seized not sure I even had to pry it away from the knuckle a bit. So when people were saying the rotors was in rough enough shape to just replace. I considered it might be safer just replacing both rotor annd caliper and the pads as wellThere wasn't a complaint of brake pulsation. The rotors apparently aren't warped. I don't see any scoring of note. So if they measure OK for thickness, remove the rust from the mounting areas, and put 'em right back on. No need to cut them. If they don't measure OK for thickness, or if there's hidden damage I've missed in the photos, then replace 'em. Ideally, the pads will go right back into the same locations they were originally.
I'd be ENORMOUSLY more concerned about the calipers. I don't care how rusted they look on the outside, it the scuzz and corrosion on the piston and square-cut seal that interest me, and that's invisible until they're pulled apart. With that many miles on the calipers, and typical brake-fluid maintenance habits, it's a no-brainer to replace 'em.
JB6 brakes have entirely adequate booster and master cylinder as supplied as original equipment...if they're in good condition. And the rear brakes are similarly superb...if they're in good condition.
Be sure to flush the old fluid thoroughly, including the ABS unit, which will require a scan tool.
If a room full of people that know more than me tell me something I’m not too proud to listenSure sounded like it, but I guess I misread.
I think I finally understand the “lip” affect looking at this picture. The rotors is flattened down where it’s contacted with the pad lower than the outside rim. Is that correct?I’d be shocked if those rotors were still in spec.
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