Rotors and brakes opinions

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CruiseLifeB

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Boots97

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After looking at your build thread, you seem like you really want to keep this truck for the long haul.

While you have everything torn apart...this is what I would do.

@boy&hisdogs and @1998_K1500_Sub and I have all done a heavy duty brake swap bc of our JB6 brakes. This swap consists of...

2500/3500 SRW calipers
JB8 Dually wheel cylinders
JB7 or JB8 Master cylinder (I used JB7)

Other items not necessary, but nice to have include...
Raybestos Element3 pads and Raybestos 473PG Shoes
JB6 drum hardware kit
Stainless Steel braided brake hoses
NiCopp brake lines all around

Here's a shopping list I made a while back.

Here's the JB7 MC you'll need

Should have all the major components you need. Also, if you plan on going this route, you'll need to replace the master cylinder, wheel cylinder, and calipers all at once bc mixing 1500 and 2500/3500 parts will result in brakes not locking up in tandem.

Here's a link for the SS hoses

Here's a link for the pads

Here's a link for the shoes
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Here's a link for NiCopp brake lines

Here's a link for brake line fittings. I bought the big box so I have as much variety as possible, but smaller boxes exist

It's a lot to digest, so don't be afraid to reach out. Hopefully I've simplified it down well enough
 

CruiseLifeB

OBS Enthusiast
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After looking at your build thread, you seem like you really want to keep this truck for the long haul.

While you have everything torn apart...this is what I would do.

@boy&hisdogs and @1998_K1500_Sub and I have all done a heavy duty brake swap bc of our JB6 brakes. This swap consists of...

2500/3500 SRW calipers
JB8 Dually wheel cylinders
JB7 or JB8 Master cylinder (I used JB7)

Other items not necessary, but nice to have include...
Raybestos Element3 pads and Raybestos 473PG Shoes
JB6 drum hardware kit
Stainless Steel braided brake hoses
NiCopp brake lines all around

Here's a shopping list I made a while back.

Here's the JB7 MC you'll need

Should have all the major components you need. Also, if you plan on going this route, you'll need to replace the master cylinder, wheel cylinder, and calipers all at once bc mixing 1500 and 2500/3500 parts will result in brakes not locking up in tandem.

Here's a link for the SS hoses

Here's a link for the pads

Here's a link for the shoes
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Here's a link for NiCopp brake lines

Here's a link for brake line fittings. I bought the big box so I have as much variety as possible, but smaller boxes exist

It's a lot to digest, so don't be afraid to reach out. Hopefully I've simplified it down well enough
i definitely will be reaching out, thank for this info.
 

boy&hisdogs

I'm Awesome
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After looking at your build thread, you seem like you really want to keep this truck for the long haul.

While you have everything torn apart...this is what I would do.

@boy&hisdogs and @1998_K1500_Sub and I have all done a heavy duty brake swap bc of our JB6 brakes. This swap consists of...

2500/3500 SRW calipers
JB8 Dually wheel cylinders
JB7 or JB8 Master cylinder (I used JB7)

Other items not necessary, but nice to have include...
Raybestos Element3 pads and Raybestos 473PG Shoes
JB6 drum hardware kit
Stainless Steel braided brake hoses
NiCopp brake lines all around

Here's a shopping list I made a while back.

Here's the JB7 MC you'll need

Should have all the major components you need. Also, if you plan on going this route, you'll need to replace the master cylinder, wheel cylinder, and calipers all at once bc mixing 1500 and 2500/3500 parts will result in brakes not locking up in tandem.

Here's a link for the SS hoses

Here's a link for the pads

Here's a link for the shoes
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Here's a link for NiCopp brake lines

Here's a link for brake line fittings. I bought the big box so I have as much variety as possible, but smaller boxes exist

It's a lot to digest, so don't be afraid to reach out. Hopefully I've simplified it down well enough

I did the NBS master. Honestly it isn't worth the hassle. It does firm up the pedal a tad but I dont think it actually adds any performance. I'm thinking about going to the correct (OBS JB7 or 8) master next time I do brake work.
 

cdone

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yea thats not bad. how long you been running them?
Maybe I'm cheap, but I generally go with whatever "less irreputable" rotors Amazon has available quickly. Pretty much all of them are churned out of the same few Chinese foundries now, and most come from one of the First Brands companies (owns Brake Parts Inc., Raybestos, Centric, probably others). All the parts stores seem to re-box those or Wagner.

On my '94 K1500 Suburban, I just put the ACDelco 18A258A on. At $27/ea I can live without the fancy coatings.

I've had good luck with Raybestos (I usually lean toward the "Advance Technology" over the cheaper lines), Centric, ACDelco. I've had mixed success with Bosch. I generally avoid Bendix/Wagner, but mostly because Amazon doesn't usually have them for quick delivery. Centric used to get the blanks from China and finish them in the US, but not sure now since First Brands bought them. I would be willing to try Dynamic Friction, started by the guy who started Centric.

As someone said, avoid the no-name "random 6-letter Amazon brands" and anything named after a fake brake parts company from a movie (looking at you, "Callahan").
 
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Boots97

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I did the NBS master. Honestly it isn't worth the hassle. It does firm up the pedal a tad but I dont think it actually adds any performance. I'm thinking about going to the correct (OBS JB7 or 8) master next time I do brake work.
Yeah I decided against the NBS master cylinder and went with a JB7 mc instead. Bolted right up to the old lines without the need for an adapter like the NBS mc
 

Yardawg

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Better meaning silent when turned or spun. I’m assuming that’s a sign when you can start hearing something as it’s spinning it’s only a matter of time till it’s done.

I may have to wait an extra week or 2 but with everything I’ve gotten already . I’m not completely against waiting to re assemble new parts. at this point only thing that’s not new is the hub assembly, rotors, brake pads, calipers, cv axle & the LCA itself.
I basically started doing the same thing as you a couple of years ago. Then I just decided since I already had it apart I should just do it all. The peace of mind is well worth it, knowing that it's all done and done right. Was about $900 for front and rear. (Brakes and hub bearings only, including new rear drums and cylinders)
 

Yardawg

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I basically started doing the same thing as you a couple of years ago. Then I just decided since I already had it apart I should just do it all. The peace of mind is well worth it, knowing that it's all done and done right. Was about $900 for front and rear. (Brakes and hub bearings only, including new rear drums and cylinders)
 

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