Realift Relocators - Install + Review

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great white

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Not sure what you all have going on, but an upper ball joint takes me about an hour. That's with a coffee break, trip to the can, watching a little TV......

I use air tools though.

Up on the jack, off with the tire, out come the cotters, zip off the upper nut, air-hammer pickle fork the joint taper (jack under the lower arm to control the release) air-hammer off the rivets and reassemble.

Lower is not much more of a pain:

Tire off, axle nut off, pop the tie rod taper, cotter out, nut loose a couple turns, pickle fork the joint (jack an inch under lower arm, it's still loaded), slowly turn nut until off, then lower jack to unload lower arm. CV axle back if needed to rotate knuckle for clearance, air hammer the lower ball joint out (or hammer or press if preferred).

Reassemble is locate lower ball joint in bore, jack underneath the new ball joint and load the lower arm, quick rap with the hammer on side of the lower arm and ball joint pops in (or use a press if preferred). Reassemble the rest.

Complete front end (4 ball joints, two tie rod ends) and ready to go back to the alignment shop is about two to 3 hours start to finish. 4 if I'm being lazy.

It's all just "nut and bolt" work, but east coast trucks get the smoke wrench for the removal phase. Not worth the aggravation trying to turn seized and rusted bits....

The right tools and practiced skills make a big difference though....
 

Vortec Lover

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Not sure what you all have going on, but an upper ball joint takes me about an hour. That's with a coffee break, trip to the can, watching a little TV......

I use air tools though.

Up on the jack, off with the tire, out come the cotters, zip off the upper nut, air-hammer pickle fork the joint taper (jack under the lower arm to control the release) air-hammer off the rivets and reassemble.

Lower is not much more of a pain:

Tire off, axle nut off, pop the tie rod taper, cotter out, nut loose a couple turns, pickle fork the joint (jack an inch under lower arm, it's still loaded), slowly turn nut until off, then lower jack to unload lower arm. CV axle back if needed to rotate knuckle for clearance, air hammer the lower ball joint out (or hammer or press if preferred).

Reassemble is locate lower ball joint in bore, jack underneath the new ball joint and load the lower arm, quick rap with the hammer on side of the lower arm and ball joint pops in (or use a press if preferred). Reassemble the rest.

Complete front end (4 ball joints, two tie rod ends) and ready to go back to the alignment shop is about two to 3 hours start to finish. 4 if I'm being lazy.

It's all just "nut and bolt" work, but east coast trucks get the smoke wrench for the removal phase. Not worth the aggravation trying to turn seized and rusted bits....

The right tools and practiced skills make a big difference though....

mind helping me install my lift??? :lol:
 

Sparg93

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You will have to undo all the work you did during the lift with regards to the torsion bars and their drop brackets if you do the RCX lift and then later do the relocators.

Spot on!

Doing everything at once will save you hours of assembly/disassembly of the same exact parts. Not to mention taking tools out, putting them away, etc etc

Start Friday after work and start digging in! But preparation is key, so read through the lift instructions thoroughly and make sure you have all the tools needed. On example is that when you detach the brake lines, it's possible you'll have to reflare them...so make sure you have the tool or you're SOL. Having a buddy with you will help immensely on this kind of work.
 
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