Post your lifted 2wd's!

[phule]

Those 17s look great!

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[95C1500]

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After much searching I finally found a really nice and rust free OBS. '97 ECSB C1500 with 225k miles. B&M shift kit with trans temp gauge, cat-back exhaust, new brakes all around, newish Discoverer 265/75/16s on Vision Warrior 375s. 3" RC lift kit. Pioneer ST with Dual amp and Klipsch sub. Really like this truck!

In your build thread you said 2" spindles and now you're saying 3" RC lift. Neither of those exist. I'm not trying to be a dick about it, just informing you. If it's a 2wd and an RC lift, it's either going to be a 4" spindle lift or a 2" coil lift. Truck looks great though. I LOVE The color combo.

 

[ZachT]

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1998 Chevy 2500HD
Daystar Leveling kit
As much as everyone says coil spacers ruin the geometry, mine is aligned back to perfect. I do need some wheel spacers because when I turn hard right the tires rub but not turning hard left.
285/75R16 Load Range E Goodyear Duratracs


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[blmiller8]

Finished her tonight just need an alignment.

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[trenteddleman]

anybody running just a leveling kit?

 

[ZachT]

anybody running just a leveling kit?

Yeah I have the coil spacer

 

[phule]

anybody running just a leveling kit?

In refrence to a 2"? I had one on my 88,scott had one on his 95.


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[Steve's Chevy]

Yeah, I didn't have any problems with alignment, in fact, I could use the 3" coil springs if I wanted to... Plenty of adjustment left. Yeah, people want a crazy amount for vehicles nowadays, it's better keeping the older stuff and just build them how you want them. Easy to work on and you don't really need a expensive piece of diagnostic equipment to work on them... and no note!

Here are some more pictures I got from my laptop. I will say this is all pre alignment so the control arm is close/touching the coil bucket. Also I moved the ball joint below the control arm before the alignment because that was what I saw in all the pictures of the control arm, even on Canuckmotorsports control arms.

And yes you might spy a flat piece of plate in some of the pictures... it's a ball joint spacer I made to try and copy what Rough Country did with there 2" lift but I never officially got it aligned so I don't know if it would of helped... I tried to get it straight myself and even with the stock UCA all the way out it was still way off so that's why I got the UCA's. So worth it.

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Again, I moved the ball joint under the plate before I got it alinged.

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IMG_2700 by Daniel Pace, on Flickr

Do you think you could run 35's with this lift without rubbing to bad ? I had that stupid fabtech 7.5 " lift and my 315's rubbed . Also what spacer did you use

Thanks

 

[95C1500]

anybody running just a leveling kit?

Yeah I ran the rough county 2" lift on mine

 

[dcp1992]

Do you think you could run 35's with this lift without rubbing to bad ? I had that stupid fabtech 7.5 " lift and my 315's rubbed . Also what spacer did you use

Thanks

That would depend on how wide of a rim you are planning to run. I had 35x12.50r15 on stock rims there for a little bit, they were probably about 1/2 thread or less and they didn't rub the body. They only rubbed the running boards so if you keep a low back spacing and probably by 8" or so rims I think you might be alright running 35s.

As I sit right now I have Anthem A731s that are 20x10 with -24mm offset and some 285/60r20 (33.6x11.22) and I had to trim quite a bit, but almost all on the running boards, just a tiny bit on the back of the fenders, mainly bent it out of the way. So, if I had gotten by 12 wheels or 35" tires on my by 10 rims I definitely would have had to trim the rear of the fender. By how much, I don't know.

The spacer I used is that generic C shaped spacer that's cheap and goes on the bottom of the coil. Wouldn't recommend it, it's challenging enough to get the spacer in and the C shaped spacer makes it worse since it's not quite cast right and the coil always tries to slip off. So I struggled a little bit on the driver side. The passenger side went a lot smoother since I zip tied the spacer to the bottom of the coil. Also I has a second set of hand to move the jacks and jack up the control arm while I put the mounting bolts back in the control arm.

I would recommend getting a top mount spacer, which I plan to get sometime soon or after I add a bumper/winch. I think the bottom spacers messes with the alignment of the coil in the bottom pocket and makes for a rougher ride that it should be, I guess we'll see whenever I get one of the top mount spacers. The top mount spacers also hold onto the coil better in my opinion since something actually cradles the coil through the center to keep it aligned. Those spacer options are either a:

Fabricated steel spacer, can get in 2", 2.5", and 3";like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131243551995?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

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Nylon spacer, can get in 2.5" and 3"; like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271724299435?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

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Poly spacer, like the daystar ones, can get in 1", 2", and 2.5", like
http://daystarweb.com/productlistin...1500+1/2+Ton&txtPartNo=&search.x=0&search.y=8

&

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-07-Chevy...ash=item416262f83f:g:DAYAAOSwe7BW1E7z&vxp=mtr

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That's just some options and also pass my opinions on the cast C shaped spacers. I think I'm either going for the fabricated steel spacer or the poly spacer when I get a new one.