Paperweight Rebuild REV03

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jps4jeep

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F-awesome work! I've loved this truck ever since I started following you build on pirate couple years back.

Do you recall what fittings you used for the T-case sight tube?
 

bggrnchvy

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F-awesome work! I've loved this truck ever since I started following you build on pirate couple years back.

Do you recall what fittings you used for the T-case sight tube?

Thanks, appreciate it.

They're PVDF swivel fittings, 1/4NPT x 3/8 tube. The tubing is clear PFA. the biggest concern was hydraulic oil rating and temperature rating. At speed, the t-case fluid gets hot, I've heard 200*F is easy.
 

jps4jeep

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Thanks, appreciate it.

They're PVDF swivel fittings, 1/4NPT x 3/8 tube. The tubing is clear PFA. the biggest concern was hydraulic oil rating and temperature rating. At speed, the t-case fluid gets hot, I've heard 200*F is easy.

Thanks for the info on the fittings.

Re t_case fluid, I burnt up a np231 in my jeep 10 years back when i actually drove it on the highway, my conclusion was over heat broke down the atf and could not adequately lubricated. After I put the new case in, I drilled and tapped the case and put a trans temp gauge on it. On hot muggy days, with a full belly skid (really poor airflow) my t-case would go up to 220-225 easily. I think atf starts to breakdown at 240-250.
 

bggrnchvy

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Well it runs.

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LQ4 HD truck lower rad hose fits great.

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Same spec truck upper fits...other than the shroud. It may clear the hood, not sure yet.

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Factory 06 truck intake will work great. I'll mod the factory battery tray to move it back and still have to mount the box itself.

Factory pedal wouldn't work in any shape or form.

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I drilled a new mounting pattern into the bottom of the bracket to fit the factory tripod mount. I also cut, sectioned, straightened and welded a gusset on the mount to bring it about where I needed it.

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It's a touch high, doing it again I'd drop it an inch towards the floor. Still has good feel and I'll be leaving it.

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More to come, hoping to get it off the jack stands in the next week or two.
 
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kamokevin

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I love the "I can't hear anything" at the end haha.

Glad to see it's all starting to come together.
 

bggrnchvy

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I love the "I can't hear anything" at the end haha.

Glad to see it's all starting to come together.

See didn't want me to edit her out of the video, haha.

So where were we?

Oh, power steering. For this incarnation as you might remember I'm using a 235 p-pump from a C60-6500 Kodiak with a tall deck 366 or 472. I modified it to run canless. To seal the housing, I had to use a bit of Marine-Tex to keep the seeping from occurring and as it is now will have to redrill a feed hole at some point next week to keep the front seal from weeping.

In any case, I mounted the reservoir after putting washers in the supplied mount. The design assumes the can is rigid enough to tension the bolts at torque when in fact the rigidity is directly related to whether the cap is on or not. With the washers in the bolts are in equal tension all the time and the lower threaded holes in the back of the reservoir base are in shear keeping it in place.

Some have had the clam shell mount fail, I wanted to avoid that.

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Here's the mount for the reservoir I burned together. A little tube leftover tubing and some modified angle laying around meant free fifty.

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Used the tig, but I stopped and started a couple times trying to work my way around which wasn't the cleanest.

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Burned in place.

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Reservoir in place and hole cut for intake. I had to move the battery back to fit the newer intake so I needed a new inlet for fresh air.

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I removed the inlet tubes to make more room for the width of the intake.

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The battery tray got cleaned of the factory mounts and I chopped them up to mount it on the inner fender further back.

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After a lot of screwing around sealing the pump it finally works well but is now dripping again. Time for oil passage modification.

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Horns

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What's the PN on those poly motor mount bushings?
 
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