oil question

[michael hurd]

I am not trying to argue, you can put whatever you want in your engine. There are benefits to running synthetic oils. Those folks that change oil by the months in an engine are simply following the protocol established by automakers and oil providers.

As dino engine oil viscosity index improvers wear down and the oil shears, the oil thins down to it's base weight, in other words, a 10w30 dino will break down to it's 10 weight base.

Synthetic additive packages do wear out as well, however a synthetic 10w30 is a 30 weight synthetic base.

At start up with a cold engine, both are thicker than ideal, however the dino oil will be much thicker. Increased friction, pumping losses and decreased fuel economy is the result of using dino oil. 10w30 dino and 10w30 are the same viscosity at 100C, operating temperature.

If you have a high mileage engine that consumes oil and leaks from every orifice, it's probably best to buy whatever dino is on sale, and top up regularly. I will never go back to dino oils myself.

 

[jhicks]

I am not trying to argue, you can put whatever you want in your engine. There are benefits to running synthetic oils. Those folks that change oil by the months in an engine are simply following the protocol established by automakers and oil providers.

As dino engine oil viscosity index improvers wear down and the oil shears, the oil thins down to it's base weight, in other words, a 10w30 dino will break down to it's 10 weight base.

Synthetic additive packages do wear out as well, however a synthetic 10w30 is a 30 weight synthetic base.

At start up with a cold engine, both are thicker than ideal, however the dino oil will be much thicker. Increased friction, pumping losses and decreased fuel economy is the result of using dino oil. 10w30 dino and 10w30 are the same viscosity at 100C, operating temperature.

If you have a high mileage engine that consumes oil and leaks from every orifice, it's probably best to buy whatever dino is on sale, and top up regularly. I will never go back to dino oils myself.

I have what seems like a slight oil leak but I cannot seem to find its source. mine does not smoke at all. the main reason I haven't swapped to syn is the fact that I cannot afford it.

 

[michael hurd]

The price difference is really moot in my opinion, if you get synthetic on sale vs buying dino at regular price, you are talking $ 10 difference in my neck of the woods.

That $ 10 is easily realized with better fuel economy, especially in colder weather.

 

[SkyHighColorado]

I don't think you can really blame the oil for failing although I don't think its good quality oil. The oil may not have been maintained up changed frequently enough. I mean its claimed that the conventional oil is going to protect your engine for at least 3000 miles most say more. Well, if you have a collector car or a garage queen and it just sits all the time on a charger and get driven on weekends during the summer and doesn't have many miles put on it. That oil will actually go bad way quicker than the average 3000 mile time dude to not being ran long enough to burn off the moisture that gets trapped in it. If you have other mechanical issues going on in the engine that could cause the oil to fail and start to sludge up. I think there is so many things that could cause the oil to leave sludge all over place just something to take into consideration. People think I am weird and waste my money changing my oil on the truck every 3000 or 3 months whichever comes first with mobil1 but it doesn't bother me and not only is changing your oil kinda fun on a nice day but its good piece of mind knowing I am giving it the best treatment I can. lol maybe I am crazy.

I think I went up to 4500 miles once, yikes! haha I was on a really long road trip and should have changed it before I left but it still looked clean although that doesn't mean fak all.

 

[thunderstruck]

As dino engine oil viscosity index improvers wear down and the oil shears, the oil thins down to it's base weight, in other words, a 10w30 dino will break down to it's 10 weight base.

Synthetic additive packages do wear out as well, however a synthetic 10w30 is a 30 weight synthetic base.

Where did you get this information? Not trying to argue, I genuinely want to know. I'm thinking about switching my ATV from synthetic Rotella T6 5w-40 to dino Rotella T 15w-40 since it's cheaper and the engine consumes some oil anyways.



Sent from my Nintendo 64

 

[michael hurd]

Bob is the oil guy....

That's all you need to search. You can spend months there reading. I don't know much about ATV's at all, but I would see what the factory recommendations are, and stick to an oil that is in the lighter end of their ranges.

Here's the section devoted to powersports: I am sure that they will steer you in the right direction.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forums/28/1/Power_Sports

 

[michael hurd]

Here's a great video of cold weather and gear oil in a test rig with different weight gear oils.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?x-yt-...2503916&feature=player_embedded&v=Y-FYdAzLjg8

On Youtube there is also a bunch of videos of engine oil pour tests at cold temperatures.

 

[454cid]

From what I've read synthetic doesn't really pay unless you're running extended drain intervals. Most of the BITOG people run longer than 3000 even with dino oil, from various threads I've read. They don't all agree over their either.

 

[ernjohn]

something else to note, the increased zinc in some diesel motor oils can cause O2 sensors to need replacement at an increased rate - especially if the engine burns even a little oil.

 

[454cid]

something else to note, the increased zinc in some diesel motor oils can cause O2 sensors to need replacement at an increased rate - especially if the engine burns even a little oil.

They aren't diesel motor oils, at least not Rotella. It's a heavy duty motor oil that meets the specs for diesel and gasoline engines.