oil pressure sending unit

[JPVortex]

Hey yall, Im going to be replacing my oil pressure sending unit on my 94 K1500 350. The one by the distributor. I'm very worried about breaking the brass fitting up there and complicating things.

My question is, is there a way to avoid it breaking, and precautions to take?

Second question is if it does break will I need to drill it at all? Or can I fit an easy out into the hole where the threads are on the broken fitting it and get it out? I was looking at this extractor, hopefully it's small enough to get in the hole where the threads are on the fitting, but big enough to dig itself into it.

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[Piratehunter]

plan on not breaking it, spray some PB Blaster on the threads and use the correct deep socket to remove the sending unit, they sell one specifically for the sending unit.

 

[Komet]

It's unlikely to break if you get the appropriate socket on it and use hand tools. Honestly I've always used an adjustable wrench on them, I just make sure I can put a nice squared up grip on it.

 

[someotherguy]

The purpose-made socket for these senders rarely seems to fit the original unit. Using a wrench and holding the fitting with a backup tool to keep from stressing it would be my advice.

In the event you do break it, I've had good luck with the square type extractors. I tried a few of the regular drill bit style and they didn't work for me; wouldn't bite into the brass. I bought a set like this nearly 20 years ago for that purpose, and still use them to this day.

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Richard

 

[someotherguy]

By the way the original part is discontinued as you would expect, #12550760 but this description from GM Parts Giant may help pick a compatible one: FITTING, ENGINE OIL PRESSURE GAGE SENSOR(SINGLE PORTION 1/8-27 THREAD TO 1/4-18 THREAD 90 DEGREE (ZINC)) Fitting Vehicle Options: CK1,2,3(LB4,L03,L05)

That should be the part # for all the 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7 engines from 1987-1995

Richard

 

[Schurkey]

plan on not breaking it, spray some PB Blaster on the threads and use the correct deep socket to remove the sending unit, they sell one specifically for the sending unit.

Penetrating oil is a TOTAL WASTE OF TIME. Those are pipe-threads, probably with a chemical sealer applied. They seal hot, thin oil at ~60 psi. No penetrating oil can get in there to do any good. Will make a nice puddle on the concrete where it drips off, though.

The purpose-made socket for these senders rarely seems to fit the original unit. Using a wrench and holding the fitting with a backup tool to keep from stressing it would be my advice.

I bought the Lisle 13250 oil-pressure socket. Seems to fit the sensors I've tried it with. But I don't know the history of those sensors, so maybe they weren't originals.
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Using a backup wrench on the fitting to reduce the stress on it is a FABULOUS recommendation.

In the event you do break it, I've had good luck with the square type extractors. I tried a few of the regular drill bit style and they didn't work for me; wouldn't bite into the brass. I bought a set like this nearly 20 years ago for that purpose, and still use them to this day.

I'd expect most any extractor that fit the hole would work OK. Be sure to not drop metal chips down the oil hole.

By the way the original part is discontinued as you would expect, #12550760 but this description from GM Parts Giant may help pick a compatible one: FITTING, ENGINE OIL PRESSURE GAGE SENSOR(SINGLE PORTION 1/8-27 THREAD TO 1/4-18 THREAD 90 DEGREE (ZINC)) Fitting Vehicle Options: CK1,2,3(LB4,L03,L05)

Thanks for that. Zinc, not steel? No wonder they break. I just touched a magnet to the oil pressure fitting on a core TBI engine out in the shop, and it sticks. Fitting is iron or steel.

 

[Scooterwrench]

When trying to remove OP sensors from those tall sensor fittings always try to pull up or push down on your tool handle,down is best. This applies torque perpendicular to the stem of the fitting and less chance of snapping it off. Pulling on the tool handle left or right applies the torque inline with the stem and pop goes the weasel!

 

[Scooterwrench]

The purpose-made socket for these senders rarely seems to fit the original unit. Using a wrench and holding the fitting with a backup tool to keep from stressing it would be my advice.

In the event you do break it, I've had good luck with the square type extractors. I tried a few of the regular drill bit style and they didn't work for me; wouldn't bite into the brass. I bought a set like this nearly 20 years ago for that purpose, and still use them to this day.

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Richard

Yeah man,those work best, The tapered worm type expand the piece you're trying to extract and makes it bind tighter in the hole

 

[someotherguy]

Thanks for that. Zinc, not steel? No wonder they break. I just touched a magnet to the oil pressure fitting on a core TBI engine out in the shop, and it sticks. Fitting is iron or steel.

It surprised me as well. I thought they were brass. Never considered they might be something else.

Yeah man,those work best, The tapered worm type expand the piece you're trying to extract and makes it bind tighter in the hole

I suffered the drill bit style on some oil line fittings on my '61 Apache decades ago, the 235 had the optional(!) oil filter and one of the lines was leaking. Broke the fitting and had hell getting it out. Later when I was dealing with the broken fitting on a '92 TBI, I figured why go through that drama again, I tried a different style and those square ones really did the trick, and have worked great every time I've depended on them.

Richard

 

[Scooterwrench]

Left hand drills work really well for drilling the holes in broken fasteners. Sometimes you get lucky and the bit bites and backs the broken fastener out.